Hey titanium, if you followed your own previous thread, you would have the right spot. The pic that chinto edited is correct.

It is a simple boost/ vacuum gauge (boost only in this case). It needs a line straight off the intake manifold. Simple as that. Yes, one of the lines off the TB will work, too, since it is opened to the intake manifold side of the TB. The line that is X'ed out on the pic above is not ideal. Why? Because it is after the fuel pressure solenoid. Why would you want a solenoid between your gauge and the source? If there is a nipple off the intake manifold, then it will work. Since the X'ed line has a solenoid between the X and the intake manifold, you are risking the wrong readings. Guess what? When the ECU takes control of that solenoid, everything after it is affected, including your boost gauge if it is tapped there.

 

yep don't tap the line from the fuel regulator. it is not actuate. I tapped it there before and the boost gauge was spike like mad. tap it at the other place and the reading will be more accurate.

 

my boost does taper....it reads 22psi peak and tapers to about 19psi.
i want a correct accurate reading. I know im at about 19.5 and i want it to show that.
it seems like i have it tapped to the right hose (right of the dipstick).
could it be my gauge? could it be my plastic hose?
Whats this about the little pill? could it be that?

 

Well then I stand corrected and I'm apparently the only one that has no problems with it plumbed there.

 

that sounds to be about correct what its doing. blackevovii does the same thing it spikes high then goes down to bout 19 20 psi does not sound like any thing is incorrect. for the taper.. not quite sure.. i have a ebc it also tapers i have it set some what low i have it spike to about 20 psi then goes to 18.5 19 psi.

 

Why do the gauge "stick" if that line (the FPR line) is used? Does anyone one know why?

 

if ur T'd into the long hose wich controls a/f it can make you "stick" to a psi / vacume reading. if you are taped into the correct or better vacume lines that have been pointed out in this post. possably your boost guage is faulty or maby even how u have it mounted or the pod is too tight. try lossening up the bolt that holds it in slightly you just need it snug enough so it doesnt move do not over tighten because it could cause a stick or slow movement.

 

The fuel pressure solenoid is used to keep fuel from vaporizing in the fuel rail on hot starts. The ECU shuts off any vacuum going to the FPR for a set amount of time (not sure what amount that is). If your gauge is tapped in between the FPS and FPR when this happens, you gauge will stay stuck on zero until the ECU opens the FPS back up.

 

How often or long does this happen, because I've never had an issue of my boost gauge reading 0 unless its off =P

Edit: Not trying to be a smart ***... I don't know the answer am I'm trying to learn as everyone else is.

 

I don't know the mechanics of it all but Defi specifically states to T the hose before the FPR so that is what I did. That is the short hose to the right of the dipstick, same one circled earlier. I run about 1.48 Bar taper to 1.2. I realize this seems a little high but it's always the same no matter when I drive.

 

I have no problem with the tapering of my boost....i think thats normal but i just want an accurate reading.
thanks for trying to help me guys.
I'm going to try and buy some vacum hose and try to replace the cheap plastic hose.

 

I tapped into the fpr for my boost gauge. I notice on startup that it takes a second to register vacumm, perhaps that is the wait until vaporized fuel it gone function.

I have an autometer boost/vacumm and it seems fairly accurate.

I pull 20 lbs of vacumm at idle.

I can only get boost revving out of gear with the AC on.

I get about 19-20 lbs at wot. I can never see it excactly because the car keeps me busy at 19lbs of boost!

 

how much do those autometer boost/vacumm gauges go for?
i want to see what i idle at during idle.

 

I personally don't know what conditions need to be met for the ECU to close the solenoid, or how long it controls it. I would assume it would be a certain coolant and/or intake temp on start-up. You'd probably have to go into the ECU code to figure it out. I haven't seen any Mitsubishi manuals that give the conditions for it.

 

Thanks! Now that explains why i sometimes see a delay in function with my boost gauge.