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How To Install A Taylor Battery Relocation Kit(evo8)

Old Nov 4, 2011 | 05:06 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by deylag
I searched summit racing and this is the part number I found: Taylor Cable 48103.

Is this the right one OP?

I am also curious as to the reasons for the final location of the battery.
thats what i used the only difference between this one and the 48101 is that the 48103 has 1 gauge wire and the 48103 has a 2 gauge.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by SMIGS714
So how much does it help to relocate the battery to the trunk?
From what I'm reading, its stronger than going to a mini battery and opens more space for a more direct UICP.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BigJohn11
From what I'm reading, its stronger than going to a mini battery and opens more space for a more direct UICP.
I have the ETS mini battery kit and the ETS short route UICP. Even if there wasn't a battery there, the routing of the UICP couldn't be any shorter.

Also, if you drag race your Evo and relocate your battery to the trunk you have to have an external kill switch. Which is fine if it's a dedicated track car, but if it's a DD you wouldn't want a kill switch on the outside of your car. Perhaps, you could create a removeable switch, but it's extra effort for no reason. The Evo X doesn't need this, because it was installed in the trunk from the factory.

My ETS small battery kit starts my built motor, on SD using AMSOIL 20W-50 in 30 degree weather on the first try.

I don't see a real reason to go through the trouble of moving it to the trunk besides saying that you did it.



-Bink
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by binky
I don't see a real reason to go through the trouble of moving it to the trunk besides saying that you did it. -Bink
Another benefit is that you move the weight of the battery to the rear of the car. This helps the front to rear weight bias. You do however add more weight to the car because of the increased length of the cables running to the battery in the rear. If the battery was put in the spare tire well then you would also be lowering the weight in the vehicle...but like you said, it is a lot of work for gains that most people will not really notice.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by binky
I don't see a real reason to go through the trouble of moving it to the trunk besides saying that you did it.
I could see the reason to move the OEM battery to the trunk. That OEM battery is heavy so moving it to the trunk will give the Evo better weight distribution. Also if you DD the Evo and like to hear music that doesn't sound like distorted crap. It would be optimal if the sound system could receive as many volts as possible.

Also after moving the battery to the trunk you can remove/relocate the wires that used to connect to the battery.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:03 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by spdngdragon
Another benefit is that you move the weight of the battery to the rear of the car. This helps the front to rear weight bias. You do however add more weight to the car because of the increased length of the cables running to the battery in the rear. If the battery was put in the spare tire well then you would also be lowering the weight in the vehicle...but like you said, it is a lot of work for gains that most people will not really notice.
That is another benefit I suppose, but like you said you will have the extra weight of the added wires.


Originally Posted by deylag
I could see the reason to move the OEM battery to the trunk. That OEM battery is heavy so moving it to the trunk will give the Evo better weight distribution. Also if you DD the Evo and like to hear music that doesn't sound like distorted crap. It would be optimal if the sound system could receive as many volts as possible.

Also after moving the battery to the trunk you can remove/relocate the wires that used to connect to the battery.

I'm not sure what the 'like to hear music that doesn't sound like distorted crap" has anything to do with moving a battery to the trunk or using a small battery. Once the car is started the alternator does all of the work. The battery acts as a capacitor. If you want 'as many volts as possible' buy a high output alternator. Problem solved.



-Bink
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 07:27 AM
  #52  
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The pictures show it but the instructions don't mention that you need to scratch off the paint around where ever you are trying to ground the battery. Dremmel works pretty fast, or a wire brush if you have an hour. haha
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #53  
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Nice write up!

I saw a few people asked about circuit breakers or fuses and I could be wrong but I did not see a reply in regards to this.

If you do this you NEED to have a fuse or circuit breaker within a few inches or so of the battery on the (+) cable. If you don't have a fuse or circuit breaker and you get a short some where near the front of the car, you could have a live wire with a short and a potential fire hazard on your hands. I have seen a few people catch their car's on fire because of this... (not EVO owners, I was an MECP certified car stereo installer several years ago).

I will be doing this sometime this summer, I just don't want to run a mini battery because of the winters here in MO.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 07:29 AM
  #54  
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I want to attemp this myself...sikofalln you should write up a how to lol
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 08:31 PM
  #55  
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Alright guys I installed this kit but when I tried to start my car it wouldn't turn over? I'm getting power - lights, door lock, windows etc etc. But it's really bipolar, I tried starting it a couple more times and after the 4th attempt it started. Next day same thing. Any ideas?
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 04:34 PM
  #56  
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Silly question but what do you do with the negative connector in the front where the old battery was?
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #57  
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You can either clip the wire and tape the end. (That's what I did because it looks a lot cleaner.) Or leave it in case you decide to put the battery back up front.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #58  
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Every kit I find doesn't have the piece that connects the original positive wire to the new (red in this case) wire- what is everyone using to safely do this?
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 12:35 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Zx2guy19
Every kit I find doesn't have the piece that connects the original positive wire to the new (red in this case) wire- what is everyone using to safely do this?
There is no easy way to attach this wire to the new wire. Some people use the evo 10 battery connection. I think this is big and bulky.

You can cut and solder them together.

I took the battery harness apart and ran new wire to the starter/alternator. This was a lot of work! I used a Blue Sea Systems PowerPost:
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems PowerPost with 16 Studs : Outdoor Post Lights : Sports & Outdoors Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems PowerPost with 16 Studs : Outdoor Post Lights : Sports & Outdoors

I hope this helps?
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 06:45 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by ryukinevo
There is no easy way to attach this wire to the new wire. Some people use the evo 10 battery connection. I think this is big and bulky.

You can cut and solder them together.

I took the battery harness apart and ran new wire to the starter/alternator. This was a lot of work! I used a Blue Sea Systems PowerPost:
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems PowerPost with 16 Studs : Outdoor Post Lights : Sports & Outdoors

I hope this helps?
Thanks man. In the past I've used something as simple as a double female connector clamp but wasn't sure if people were using anything else. I got all the stuff to do it but I might pick up the thing you linked to.

Thanks!
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