This will explain in detail how to change the rotors on a Evo 8 the procedure should be the same a 9 as well. This is a relatively easy thing to do even if you are very new to working on cars. It is not much more difficult than changing a tire. The local Midas place quoted me at 3 hours of labor total for around $210. All the tools used for changing the rotors can be purchased for less than $100. Total time varies, but with very basic tools plan on 1.5 hours. If you have a garage then time would be significantly less, but you also wouldn’t be reading this.


before you buy new rotors READ THIS:


then read the next post by Warmpepsi

so if you still want to buy new rotors and continue...


Tools I used:

1/2in drive 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench
a breaker bar would work if you don't care about how tight the bolts are on, and is also recommended

3/8 drive ratchet

21mm 1/2in drive long socket - for lug nuts
19mm 1/2in drive socket - for bolts holding front calipers on
17mm socket or wrench - for bolts holding rear calipers on

Two M8x1.25 (length) bolts (the type an Allen wrench would fit into), and appropriate hex socket

Rubber mallet

Something to jack up the car
Using the jack supplied with the car is NOT recommended
2 jack stands would work fine

Procedure:
work on a flat surface, release the e-brake on or the back rotors will never come off
Jack up the car and take off the wheel(s)
Locate the 19mm (front,) or 17mm (rear) bolts holding the calipers to the car, there are two of them holding on each caliper, remove these bolts and put the caliper so it’s not hanging by the brake line, don’t detach the brake lines.
Pull the calipers off of the existing rotors, use rubber mallet gently if difficult
Try to pull off the rotor at this point, if it comes right off you’re really lucky and skip the next step, if not then continue reading (it probably won’t come off)
Locate the 2 holes on the rotor hats near the 5 bolts the lug nuts go on, they are usually rusty and don’t look threaded, but they are
Put the M8x1.25 bolts into the holes, use the appropriate hex adapter and 3/8 drive ratchet to turn them, work slowly alternating between each one
After several turns, the rotor will be released, at this point put on the new one, remember front rotors go up front and rear rotors go in back
Secure the rotor with 2 lug nuts, this is so you can get the caliper back on easily
Put the caliper on, you may have to wiggle the brake pads a little to get it to go
Bolt the calipers back on nice and tight
Take the 2 lug nuts back off,
Put the wheel back on and bolt up nice and tight

Repeat 3 more times

Notes:
Don’t change the brake pads and the rotors at the same time
After changing the rotors, go and make 4x 80-35mph (relatively) hard stops (or another combination you like for bedding pads)
At first the brakes will feel weak as the pads need a bit of time to adhere to the new rotors
The heat from a few stops will make your brakes feel better in no time


Finally, enjoy your new rotors.

 

Nice writeup, but theres a few issues.

The stock brembro rotors aren't bad for warping, and unless you did a runout check, and confirmed they were warped ( you'd be the first one i've seen yet.)

You simply had uneven pad transfer on the rotor. (what do you mean?) You can feel a difference of .005 thousands of a inch of pad, as it grabs more where there is more pad on the rotor, and lets go where there is not, hense the "pulsing" sensation.

Go out and do 3-4, 80-35 stops, and then stay off the brakes, park the car, and let it cool. Youve now rebed your pads in. Should do this every time you swap pads/rotors, etc. (some people do 3-4, 55-25, then 1 or 2, 80-35. The point is to get them hot and even.)

If you bed them, and then sit on the brakes at a stoplight, right after when they're hot? you're probably just gonna transfer the pad right back over to the rotor, and be back at square one

Now, the lugs to hold the rotor on, good idea, but not 100% necessary.

And before you start any of this, pull the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. just remember to put it back on. The first pump of the brakes will go to the floor, don't be worried, you're just pushing the pads back out to contact the rotors. second/third pump will be rock solid. If not, you've got air in your lines.

 

removed

 

would you reccomend cleaning off the hub assembly before installing the new rotors?

And why cant you replace the rotors and pads at the same time?

 

nice right up...i did this about 2 months ago.

 

Since you dont reccomend changing the rotors and the pads at the same time, should you do the pads first or the rotors?

 

i recommend doing the prying with the stock pads.

IE: if you're swapping pads and rotors, and the new track pads are thicker than the stockers, you have to compress the pistons. when you compress the one side with the caliper not on top of the rotor, the other side pops out.

So if you're on stock, and going to track.... swap the rotors then the pads. If you're on track, going to stock, swap the pads, then the rotors. I'd rather not be prying with the pricey track pads, thats all i'm saying.

 

That makes sense. I thought that you were saying to install the rotors, bed the old pads, then install the new pads....

That aviously didnt make sense to me...

Thanks

I will report back tommorow as all new rotors and pads will be going in..

 

haha, nah, just install the pads while the caliper is mounted to the car.

 

any idea why putting in the two bolts, would pop some spring holders behind the rotor? For some reason my rear rotor won't come off, even after putting in those two bolts in the threads.

 

release the parking brake.

 

well at first when i put the bolts in and it didn't come out, it was because of the parking brake. So i took the bolts out and release the brake but whe i re-inserted the bolts the rotor still wouldn't pop out.

 

I assume it's been a while since it was off. Take a rubber mallet, or something similar, and give it a few good hits (a solid hammer on the inside around the hub is ok also).

I've never used the bolts to pull it out, honestly. I just simply pull on the sides (not the dust shield). You've probably got a little bit of rust in the hub area causing it to stick.

 

do you have to take the shims off of the stock brembo pads to put on the new pads if the new ones already came with a shim on them?

 

no. just make sure you use a little bit of the brake lube on the back of the pad, keeps a bit of noise away. it's a few bucks at the autostore. While you're at it, pick up a box of gloves from either there or harbor freight. 100% worth it for the mess you'll get all over .