My Battery relocation and trunk net [pics]
#47
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aren't you venting into the trunk with those? It doesn't look like it's a sealed box. Is there a gasket of some sort anywhere?
#49
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What's my point? I dunno, other than maybe these boxes make you "legal" on the strip, but do they really vent all gasses outside the car????? Not in my opinion.
#51
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I haven't seen a battery box yet that is totally sealed and needs a vent. Neither the Taylor or the Summit box is truly sealed around where the positive and negative cables go through the box. Yes, the lid seals well, but seriously, there is plenty of potential to leak fumes into the trunk with either of these boxes. I put a vent tube on my box, and drilled a hole in the trunk deck so that it has a vent to the outside, but these boxes aren't totally sealed from the trunk with the grommets and fittings that come with the relocation boxes.
What's my point? I dunno, other than maybe these boxes make you "legal" on the strip, but do they really vent all gasses outside the car????? Not in my opinion.
What's my point? I dunno, other than maybe these boxes make you "legal" on the strip, but do they really vent all gasses outside the car????? Not in my opinion.
I'm not going to bother venting mine. Everytime I close the door, the trunk vents anyway with the flaps behind the rear quarter panel.
#52
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I hate to bump an old thread, but..
jesus guys, please dont run your power cables through door gromets. They arent designed for thick gauge wiring. Over time they can and probably will short out in your door. Also please ground your battery to the CHASSIS, not the sheet metal in the trunk.
jesus guys, please dont run your power cables through door gromets. They arent designed for thick gauge wiring. Over time they can and probably will short out in your door. Also please ground your battery to the CHASSIS, not the sheet metal in the trunk.
#53
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I hate to bump an old thread, but..
jesus guys, please dont run your power cables through door gromets. They arent designed for thick gauge wiring. Over time they can and probably will short out in your door. Also please ground your battery to the CHASSIS, not the sheet metal in the trunk.
jesus guys, please dont run your power cables through door gromets. They arent designed for thick gauge wiring. Over time they can and probably will short out in your door. Also please ground your battery to the CHASSIS, not the sheet metal in the trunk.
I used a thick grommet sized for 0 gauge cable.
As far as grounding goes, the stock grounding location for the battery in the engine bay is really just a nut welded to the sheetmetal on the shock tower.
I grounded to several locations in the trunk. Some sheetmetal and some "beefier" locations.
It's a unibody construction. Sheetmetal pretty much is the "chassis"
But thank you for your comment. It does have a lot of truth to it and I do periodically check the grommet. Grounding is what I was worried about at first as I have experienced poor grounding when relocating batteries in other cars. The biggest change I noticed in other cars was a change in the starter motor. I didn't experience that when I relocated this one.
Last edited by SophieSleeps; Jul 12, 2007 at 05:45 AM.
#55
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Now honestly unless your alternator freaks out and is trying to push like 20 volts into the battery without you noticing, you shouldn't have any problems with enought fumes building up in the trunk of your car to cause a problem. also you trunk is vented out of the botom of the car, behind the wheel wells, the box is mostly a precauction incase the battery does overcharch and explode if there is no firewall between the driver and the battery, and to secure it from trying to fly around the car.
#56
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Now honestly unless your alternator freaks out and is trying to push like 20 volts into the battery without you noticing, you shouldn't have any problems with enought fumes building up in the trunk of your car to cause a problem. also you trunk is vented out of the botom of the car, behind the wheel wells, the box is mostly a precauction incase the battery does overcharch and explode if there is no firewall between the driver and the battery, and to secure it from trying to fly around the car.
Thanks. That's my thinking as well.
Regardless, i have a dry cell in there.
#57
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a box is not typically required when using a drycell battery in most cases...when using a wet cell it is
just for reference:
this is just one example, but that is typically the rule associated with batteries for track events
heres the pdf link just in case you all want to read the whole thing:
http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/2007rxRules.pdf
just for reference:
SCCA Rally Cross Rules 2007 Edition
6.3.N. All batteries (on board power supplies) shall be attached to ensure that the
battery and/or power supply will remain in place. If a lead-acid (wet cell) type
battery is located in the drivers/co-drivers compartment it must be equipped with
leak-proof caps and enclosed in a non-conductive, marine-type box. Dry cell
batteries, commonly known as Recombinant Gas (RG) or Glass Mat Technology
(GMT) batteries, are not required to be in a marine-type box. The hot terminal
must be insulated on all vehicles. All batteries shall be securely attached to the
primary structure of the vehicle
6.3.N. All batteries (on board power supplies) shall be attached to ensure that the
battery and/or power supply will remain in place. If a lead-acid (wet cell) type
battery is located in the drivers/co-drivers compartment it must be equipped with
leak-proof caps and enclosed in a non-conductive, marine-type box. Dry cell
batteries, commonly known as Recombinant Gas (RG) or Glass Mat Technology
(GMT) batteries, are not required to be in a marine-type box. The hot terminal
must be insulated on all vehicles. All batteries shall be securely attached to the
primary structure of the vehicle
heres the pdf link just in case you all want to read the whole thing:
http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/2007rxRules.pdf
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quick question.......
can someone take a pic of the engine bay and explain how to correctly connect the power cables that originally went to the positive terminal on the battery.
i.e a distribution block? so would you take the assembly that goes to the positive terminal apart (starter power, alternator power, and the other one i forget) put that to the distribution block then run a 0 gauge to the trunk? im just kind of confused?
can someone take a pic of the engine bay and explain how to correctly connect the power cables that originally went to the positive terminal on the battery.
i.e a distribution block? so would you take the assembly that goes to the positive terminal apart (starter power, alternator power, and the other one i forget) put that to the distribution block then run a 0 gauge to the trunk? im just kind of confused?