My Battery relocation and trunk net [pics]
There are two other things you should have with a remote battery setup.
A fuse/circuit breaker, and a battery master kill switch. The switch should either be on the outside, or easy to access from the outside of the car.
A fuse/circuit breaker, and a battery master kill switch. The switch should either be on the outside, or easy to access from the outside of the car.
later
DJ
Good advice man, so did u actually put the fusible links in the rear with the batter of just supplied power to the fusible links to the front from the rear with a 0 gauge power cable?
Also how many grounds do u really need?
Also how many grounds do u really need?
I have gotten my battery relocated and I want to know what size (amperage) inline fuse I should run. I know a starter takes a heck of a lot of amps while it is cranking. So what fuse can I use that would be beneficial if the wire ever ground out but I wouldn't be replacing it everytime I go to start my car?
Normal cranking loads can require 125 to 200 amps or more from the battery depending on engine displacement. Im just not sure what sizes they offer to tell u to run with. I would say something about 250 would be safe.
later
DJ
later
DJ
when you drill a hole in the trunk how do you bolt the battery holder to the sheetmetal, is there easy access from under the car to get a nut on the bolt??? I want to place my battery in the passengerside corner closest to the rear seat.
There is not access under the car near the back seat. Thats where your rear subframe for your suspension is. Its much easier to put it in one of the corners of your trunk like mine is. The worst that is in your way is your exhaust, and your emissions canister( which is only a few bolts to get out of the way to set up your box)




