even with this great information this thread will never end imo. ive read every post in this thread n found posts describing the same problems with no answers.

new trans, clutch is only a summer old. ive messed with the adj. and have new fork, full SS line. still having clutch drag during the rev test. i was gonna try the thumb test that jack explains in the video but people mentioned they couldnt push it with their hands. is this due to the evo having a diff style master or is the bleeder still in there?i dont want to damage anything trying to compress the slave but if this works then im gonna try it.

this test is my only option since ive tried the full range of pedal adj. if some one can just point me in the right direction to see some sign of improvement that would make my day. i refuse to risk my new trans.

 

Hey I was just about to bump this with the same question. Sorry got nothing to add, just want adjustment info.

 

It isn't easy but you can push the slave cylinder in by hand. The slave is meant to be allowed to free flow back to the reservoir. To properly adjust your clutch you turn the adjustment shaft CW one turn at a time. After every turn check your slave cylinder to see if it can be pushed in by hand. Eventually you will go to push on the slave and you won't be able to move it like before. Once you find this point you turn the rod 1/2 turn CCW, make sure the slave can be pressed in again, then lock down your adjustment nut. This ensures maximum travel of the master cylinder rod while still having a self adjusting clutch.

 

im completely maxed on my pedal adjustment using this tech. the only thing that it comes down to, and i hope someone tells me im wrong, is the flywheel is warped or clutch is messed up somehow. ive been messing with this for a month now n had the trans in n out like 5 times. if it comes back out again im goin with a twin

 

Thanks, that's a great summary. Sadly I can never get the slave cylinder to budge. I've tried the rod in every possible position between max in and max out. I put all my weight and strength on a rubber mallet to move the fork thing, but I get nothing.

I can see how it moves when someone presses the clutch, but I'm assuming my "self adjusting" mechanism is screwed because it just won't move.

 

could be a bad slave. i have no trouble moving mine. did u remove the pill?

 

The relief is in the master cylinder, not the slave. If your clutch can't self adjust it will eventually pump up and prematurely wear your clutch. This is going to sound really condescending, but you are pushing the fork towards the driver's side, correct?

 

true. my bad.

to add- if ur pedal is adjusted out to far it will have no wiggle meaning its way to far out. a few mm of play is a good place to start adjusting. a friend to help is also nice to have. when ur checking the slave movement lean over the driver fender and pull (easier). depending on ur intake setup you will have to remove it in order to get ur hands in there.

my drag issue is due to warped flywheel.. gonna throw a twin in there n call it a day.

 

Haha not condescending at all, I thought I was supposed to replicate what the hydraulic system does with my hands, which is absurd now that I think of it. I done goofed.

The Jack's Transmissions video is for the mirrored DSM layout I guess? It's blurry 240p so I never saw what was going on exactly.

Thanks, I'll try in the other direction now. I know I tried pulling towards the driver side before, but I must have already been blocking the bleeder valve since it didn't move.

 

stihlalive - try bleeding your slave cylinder itself. They can trap air that you will have to compress every time you push the clutch in. You may be getting full pedal travel but reduced slave travel in that scenario. I've been fighting my car to get my brand new Jack's trans to shift smoothly and even after fully bleeding the line there was air in the slave from when I removed the restrictor.

Name User - That Jack's vid is really hard to see. I ended up having to ask a local Evo shop for any tricks to get the trans to shift better. It was passing the drag test which really had me confused as I had bled the line a couple times and the slave after I found out that might be it. As soon as the guy sat in my car he stated the clutch was too high. I adjusted it down quite a bit and BOOM, my trans felt much better. I'm not sure anymore if the Evo has a relief in the master as I could push the slave in with it adjusted both to the floor and at the end of the pedal travel.

 

lowering the pedal doesnt seem like it would work but i have read a few comments saying it worked. i started my adj about mid pedal but the slop was very bad. i did bleed the slave wich did have air in it, helped a bunch. all the adjustments in the world wont fix a warped flywheel sadly

 

just did mine tonight, i have about two threads sticking out, I'm on an exedy twin disc with about 22,000 miles, for all you exedy twin disc evos out there, is yours about the same, it's definitely smoother through the gears while driving and downshifting, my 1st is a little better from 0 and the same with reverse,

 

I think the confusion comes from the fact that everyone has different opinions on what they consider to be adjusting the adjustment rod clockwise vs counter-clockwise as with inward/outward. I guess a weird but good way to determine which way is which would be to identify the right way to turn the rod. Are we supposed to be adjusting clockwise in terms of laying on the floor looking up at the rod or is clockwise in reference to standing outside the car? Depending on your position, the clockwise direction movement varies.

Another way to look at it would be whether turning clockwise would cause more threads to show inside the U shaped bracket or outside the bracket (inside the bracket is closer to the front seat whereas outside the bracket is closer to the floor/firewall)? Can someone clarify which way is correct? In regards to saying shifting is better when adjusted inward, same question. Does adjusting inward mean screwing the rod so that more threads are inside the U shaped bracket which would also cause the pedal to move closer to the floor (resting lower than the brake pedal)?

I feel like once we get better clarification on this, it would clear up the confusion as the instructions EvoMoto posted that talks about the adjustment being "too close" and how to adjust it isn't very clear on which way is clockwise. The picture they post is upside down compared to the ones posted on EvoM. This causes the turning motion for clockwise to be reversed.

 

I like to think of it as making the rod longer or shorter. If the rod is longer, then the clutch fork moves farther when you floor the pedal. If the rod is shorter, then the fork moves less.

 

I adjusted mine yesterday with a bit of success. Made shifting slightly smoother, but unfortunately my 4th-5th grind still exists