I have always used this method on my previous cars with great success! Problem is with my Evo (someone please chime in) is that it's hard as hell to push the clutch fork against the slave cylinder.

Is that normal for an Evo? All my DSM's have been pretty easy to push the clutch fork against the slave cylinder to check and maker sure the check valve isn't closed off.

I kept turning the rod out on the master cylinder and "tried pushing" the slave inward and it didn't seem to change. It kept going in.

 

Yes, I tried to push with my hand and is very hard to push I dont know if that is normal on the Evo's but I use something to push the slave like a small pry bar or something,another thing is that I have adjusted the pedal rod all the way out but I still able to push the slave .

 

I am having some trouble with this. I have adjusted the clutch to both extremes and everywhere in between. I cannot get it to shift good. It's a fresh Shep tranny and new clutch. My current plan is to re-bleed the clutch and hope that helps because maybe it is not fully disengaging due to an air bubble or something but I am stumped and it's starting to get frustrating.

Can you adjust too high and get a grind/notchy shift? Or do I just need to adjust higher and higher until it quits grinding? I left it about 3-4 threads showing and it drove great but every now and then I would get a grind from 1st-2nd shift and that's what makes me think it's the clutch that needs bleeding but the tranny has never been butter smooth like I heard it would be, it's always had a notchy shift from 1-2 and I can almost feel the shift push into something that's rotating if that makes sense... very mechanical feel but it doesn't feel right to me (my first Evo)

 

Adjusted clutch yesterday and ran into this same issue. Car wouldn't start. Came here and found the fix in 5 minutes. I'd buy you a beer if I could.

 

I followed Jacks video, and now my clutch engagement is fairly high (not a bad thing).. I tightened the rod all the way in, then fork was obviously locked. Which it should be. Then I backed it a out a half a turn at a time until i could move the fork back. . For those saying the fork is hard to move, just apply constant firm pressure.. it will move back if the bleeder is open.. now anyways, can someone confirm this statement for the safest pedal adjustment (not personal preference, which could be incorrect).... "Your clutch pedal should be adjusted to have the highest engagement point possible while still allowing the bleeder valve to be open and do it's job". Which may seem like high engagement, but like the video said, you want the most fluid to flow through your system for better disengagement. . My pedal feels awesome and I am used to the high engagement.

 

Doesn't having the most fluid flowing the system have the potential of hyper extending the pressure plate?

 

Does anyone have any knowledge of hyper extending a pressure plate due to much disengagement?

 

won't the slave only extend so far out, unless you get a new slave? Seems like you would be okay...

 

Thank you . Great job.

 

Alright to clear things up. Adjust the Clutch Peddle to about 1/4 inch above the brake while the vehicle is off and in neutral. You will need to readjust clutch every so often as is normal with wear. You don't need any clutch fork extenders as the slave is self adjusting anyways.

Jacks Transmission is the best around when it comes to rebuilds of any of your parts. Shep trans is famous and all and they have a good product, but just read through Jack's website. There is a lot of valuable information there and he really breaks it down so you know the exact inter workings of your car.

If you have a new/newish clutch and your gears are still grinding you need a tranny rebuild. Have Jacks do it as there is a factory preload setting that doesn't set the gears teeth up correctly. Jacks has through trial and error found the perfect preset when reinstalling the gears and it moves like butter. No more grinding, no more worry.

If you truly want to drive your car hard and it won't break, talk to Jack. He is also negotiable on the pricing as well. Real great guy to do business with and you get the best quality available at the lowest price usually.

Just my .02 cents. Good luck to you all.

 

what do you mean above the brake? I hope you don't mean brake pedal... every car is different and adjusting the clutch to a preset location in your car will not be ideal for someone elses car.... please follow the how-to posted

 

I mean the clutch pedal should be a 1/4" above the brake pedal. This is coming straight from Aaron at English Racing AKA John Bradley. Safe to bet that he knows these cars much better than we do and knows what he's talking about.

Being at that point it gives the best engagement/disengagement and if your going to be racing it makes more sense to have a shorter throw for your clutch which equals quicker shifts .

 

I am having the same issue.

My clutch is audibly dragging. I bled the lines and followed Jack's video. The slave was very hard to press, but I could get it to move no matter how the pedal was adjusted. I threaded the rod all the way in and all the out. I could compress the slave cylinder in each configuration and every one in between. Also, none of the rod adjustments helped with the dragging clutch.

Does any one have any insight to this issue? There is no leaking brake fluid and no torn boots. The transmission is notchy sometimes and the clutch is dragging all over the place. Is the bleeder valve between the slave and the master cylinder bad? Is the slave bad?

My apologies for bumping such an old thread. Any help gets and E-beer!

 

Want to thank the person who posted the procedures at the beginning of this thread. My grandson presented his Evo 9 saying that his clutch was slipping and the dealer told him he needed a new clutch (Cost 1300). We bought the clutch and installed it for $600+. THEN WE FOUND THIS SITE. Yes, the clutch was worn, but not that much. I would have put it back in if I had a choice, but he said it was not adjustable. I had him read your posts and he went out and looked underneath the column and said, "Sure as hell, that is exactly what I have". OK, so we blew $600+, but he has a nice fresh clutch assy now and as an aside, all new fluid.

Note: When you go to Mitsubishi and get the oil, you have to buy the gallon can $75 for the quart that you will need. As his mechanical knowledge is concerned, he could do it again on any other EVO and Honda. Proud of him.

 

Bought an EVO8 with a sheptrans 7 months ago, thought it was weird that the 5th gear would grind if speed shifted or if not super granny shifted from coasting even though rev matched. Never heard of 5th gear grinding in a car so searched the forums.

Then saw many people have the same 5th gear grind even with new trannys etc and how Jack transmission apparently can adjust the gear synchros, figured that was my issue.

Did this clutch adjustment on my other car (MR-S) after a clutch install when it was very notchy in all gears so figured I would give it a shot since it is the same procedure.Mod significantly improved all gear shifts especially into fifth on my EVO8!

Thanks EVOM!