you have to adjust the top lock nut too. go to the first post.

 

nice work

 

ok if im a new manual driver would it be easier for me for the clutch to engage higher or lower, its a twin plate cltuch so its a lil difficult to learn on what yall think?

 

A tad bit higher if you ask me

 

Middle. If you go too the low you'll probably start to get notchy and clunky shifting from the twin.

 

This might have been stated in the prior pages but if you pull the cotter pin near the adjustment rod it will help greatly in adjustment.

There's a cotter pin that hold a bolt through the clutch pedal mount (black metal) and the u joint for the push rod. Loosen the 12mm nut first. After that's done, remove the cotter pin, pop the bolt out and you will free the u joint from the pedal assembly. Then you can very easily move the push rod back and forth adjusting as you need. Then put everything back together.

I used to hate doing a clutch pedal adjustment because people said it was so easy with the 12mm nut and the 6mm wrench point and the adjustment is done. I found it much easier to do it the way I stated above. It does take some more disassembly but after your first time doing it you'll be able to do it in minutes.

 

I have been following the directions posted here as well as speaking with Jack's Transmissions. I have the Quartermaster Twin and the ONLY issue I am having is high rpm (7500+) 3rd gear lockouts. It's getting really annoying too because I adjusted the rod length almost ALL the way higher. I also put the car up on stands and made sure to mark and check where the disengagement point is, which is in the 2-3" off the floor range. What else should I try???

 

hey guys, great info here. i have no problems adjusting the rod length but after the adjustment, my car won't start now.



the car is free of any kill switches or security. i have pushed the white thing out of curiosity (circled in above pic), what is that?

any help would be appreciated

 

The "white thing" you are referencing is a clutch switch. You'll see a tab on the side of the clutch pedal itself that, when depressed, is supposed to press in the white switch.

You can just unplug the white switch from the little harness you have pictured above...or you can move the switch back into position (by grabbing and bending the metal tab it is mounted on) where it is depressed by the clutch pedal itself.

Because you have the switch plugged in and the clutch pedal isn't depressing the switch...your car won't start.

 

thank you so much Ray, i just disconnected the switch and it starts.

btw, the clutch adjustment made a huge difference, most of the notchiness is all but gone, cept 4th gear where it still scratches if i shift too quickly. i can cut through all the other gears like butter



this is where it sits currently. can i lengthen the rod anymore (clockwise)? cause the aforementioned 4th gear scratch has been getting less and less noticeable as i lengthen the rod, but at the same time i don't want to compromise the throw out bearing or anything.

thanks again

 

Thank you for this write up. Helped me with my new clutch.

 

I know how to adjust the clutch but my prob is that the gears are notchy and its hard to put in 1st and R, no prob I can adjust it more but even at the Current setting there is NO freeplay in the pedal. I don't want to adjust it more (to fix the notchyness) and risk putting constant pressure on the throw out bearing or anything else and plus I have a $2300 Exedy triple disc I don't want to risk harm to.

What should I do next?

I plan on bleeding the clutch slave.
Also thinking maybe I need a longer clutch fork rod?
Anybody else running one of these? or of what I can try?
Thanks

 

bleed till your 100% sure these is no air in the system. Also you can try to back out the switch stop that way you can adjust the rod to the maximum you can adjust it...basically till no threads show at all. I have tried everything.

 

Thanks, I keep forgetting about the top switch, hopefully I still have some usable space left to make a difference. I'll bleed it when I find someone to come over and help or rig something up to hold the pedal down.

If those two things dont help enough what else can be done?

I have a steel line to the slave so it's not "expanding" and the car has 33k and the clutch has less than 5k miles so it's not like the master and slave is worn out from working this clutch for years.

 

Anybody know how far the slave should move in a full stroke of the clutch pedal?
or some kind of way to test it if it's working fully