LOL i was getting confused also, but thanks exacc for helping us visual learners.

 

Thanks Exacc. Helped me alot too..

 

So, I've adjusted my clutch but for some reason, the pedal keeps sinking back down. I made sure I had tightened the nut all the way. What could be the problem?

 

Does it look the same where you adjust the clutch on a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 4 GSR?

 

great write up. Not hard to do, just follow the steps. Thanks again

 

I wonder if this also applies to an EVO 1 as well.

 

Just did this in my car. What a difference. My tranny felt so knotchy before i thought I was going to break all my gears (ok thats exaggerating but still) and now it feels so smooth. Definitely a good write up

 

how are you guys able to turn the adjustment rod? I cannot get a wrench in there to turn it, there just is not enough room. With that bracket for the "clutch being pushed in for the car to start thinkgy" right there in the way, I cant even turn it alittle.

 

Nice write up. I have been getting grinding in 4th and sometimes 5th. I wont be able to do this until tomorrow.

 

Just installed Carbonetic twin and my engagement seems to be on the high side... Most of the time I have to slip at 2000 rpm to get the car to move... any lower and the car will vibrate so I have to slip higher up...

I assume that I need to make the clutch adjustment shorter to have it closer to the floor engagement/disengagement point? Are there any side effects or such as thing as too close?

It is also a bit frustrating that the nut and the rod seems to be connected... When I try to make the rod closer, the nut will move along and eventually tighten itself back...

 

I was looking through the clutch pedal adjustment procedure in the Service Manual, and it has me a bit confused. basically, the procedure says to:

- Check the pedal height (114.3 mm or more from the clutch pedal stopper to the rubber piece on back of the pedal, or 202.1 to 206.1 mm from the clutch pedal stopper to a vertical line intersecting the middle of the pedal face).
(It also says to adjust the height of the pedal by loosening the setting nut (on the push rod), but I believe this is incorrect. Seems like the only way to adjust the height of the pedal would be to adjust the pedal stop ???)

- After the height is within range, it says to then check the clevis pin play, which should be 1-3 mm. Again, it says to adjust this by loosening the setting nut on the push rod, which in this case makes sense. This is basically the adjustment talked about throughout this thread.

So, it would seem to me that making sure there is enough play in the clevis pin ensures that the clutch is fully engaged when the clutch is out. No play indicates that there is still pressure being applied to the push rod, keeping the clutch from fully engaging?
So, the pedal height adjustment, I guess, would then ensure that there is enough travel in the pedal to ensure full disengagement when pressed?

I think I'm on the right track so far???


Now, my situation is that the play in the pedal is fine, but the height of the pedal is about 7-8 mm too short. Does this sound like a problem? Could this mean that the clutch isn't fully disengaging when fully depressed?

What prompted me to check the clutch in the first place, is that it's started slipping. The strange this is, that it was fine one day, and all of a sudden can't hold the power the next. (Though my wife did drive it between those days) I'm making a little over 300whp, and on WOT I can definitely feel a loss of power after 4-5k rpms. Just doesn't pull like it should, and I notice a burning smell which I assume is the clutch. I haven't been able to watch the speed and rpms closely enough during a pull to tell if they're out of sync.
My first impression was that I need a clutch, which wasn't a huge surprise considering there's 75k on the stock one, but it did seem strange that it went so quickly.
I was really hoping to find that it was out of adjustment and just wasn't engaging fully, but I think that's probably wishful thinking)

So I guess I'm wondering if the pedal height is really that important? Could I have been driving around all of this time with the clutch not fully disengaging during shifts, and this has burned it out? (Though it seems like I would have noticed it in the shifts.)
Is it worth my while to adjust the stopper and correct the height? As I already have play, I assume I would need to adjust the lock nut as well, as I don't think the push rod will give me any more travel. The net effect then would only be more overall travel in the clutch?

And sorry for the long post. Just wanted to make sure I was being clear. And thanks to the OP for the great write-up.

 

ok, nice write-up. easy to do. some guys say that a wrench doesnt fit and they cant turn the rod... well use thin pliers or somethin, or wear a latex glove and turn by hand..... that part is easy to do.
but here is my problem - I threaded the rod so much, my setup is now very "short". my shifting was always notchy an 1-2 shifts suffered from bad grind. so i made the pedal much 'shorter' as all of you suggested, and as was shown in the photos earlier in the pages.
NOW, starting in 1st, or in reverse is impossible. Before, i had to let out the clutch pedal at least a little before it grabs. now, it grabs all the way at the floor. its as if there is no travel room at all. the only way my clutch is ever disengaged, is when i press firmly into the floor...
so what now??

 

Thank you so much. Great job.

 

I gotta do this to mine, I am grinding 5th and HATE it!!! I know it's the new clutch probably just finished breaking in, so I will just adjust it, good write up btw....

 

ok, well I just adjusted mine because it was engaging all the way at the top of the throw causing so major grinding issues in first gear. The clutch I have on it now is an Exedy Stg. II Cerametallic installed by AMS, so no problems there. I've only put 15k on the clutch and have taken it to the track once, but I put in 17 passes!!! I noticed about a month or two after going to the track is was grinding a bit toward the top of the throw, but was assured the nothing was wrong it was just because of the cerametallic clutch making the noise. So anyways fast forward 2 more months, I noticed the clutch slipping in 3rd and 4th gear under boost.. So I find it hard to believe that the stock clutch lasted 50k miles and the aftermarket lasted around 15k with just one trip to the strip and leasurely driving any other time. So as I stated in the beginning I just got finished with adjusting the clutch pedal on the car. Now after quite a bit of swearing and twisting my body into a pretzel to try to get comfortable as possible down there, I got the lock nut loose and put it nearly all the way back to the flat part of the push rod (it was close to the middle before adjusting). Now here comes the kicker, as the write up says to try to twist the coupler by hand so it meets with the lock nut and the tighten the nut back up to the coupler.. well I don't know about if you guys have something special on your cars but there's a cotter pin with a pin holding the coupler in place so I pulled the cotter pin out and popped the pin out that was running through the clutch pedal arm and it still wouldn't turn so I put the pin and everything back in, and grab the shaft and it turns freely.. well freely enough with a little push on the clutch pedal so I turn the shaft till the coupler gets nearly to the lock nut and back it away just a bit and I tightened down the lock nut leaving about 3-4mm's of adjustment left.
Now after doing this much clutch pedal itself is VERY low it may travel 2-3 inches before it bottoms out and just feels weird. The car starts and shifts fine, it doesn't grind any more taking off from first gear at all. We're getting hammered with snow right now in chicago so I couldn't take it on the expressway to see if it was slipping in the higher gears still. It just freaks me out a little that the clutch pedal is so low to the floor board, compared to where it was before.
For you guys who've adjusted for sooner engagement is this how your cars are too? or is there something wrong?