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HOW TO: clutch pedal adjustment

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Old Jun 16, 2007, 01:12 AM
  #16  
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Just got my evo.Its used with 38k on it.The clutch engages very close to releasing the pedal.Id like it to engae with my foot further into it.WHich way does the rod need to be turned clockwise or counter-clockwise...?And do I really need to worry about jacking the car up and all that.Clutch is stock too.
Old Jun 16, 2007, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ImJoey
Just got my evo.Its used with 38k on it.The clutch engages very close to releasing the pedal.Id like it to engae with my foot further into it.WHich way does the rod need to be turned clockwise or counter-clockwise...?And do I really need to worry about jacking the car up and all that.Clutch is stock too.
if you adjust it too far down, it can damage your synchros and lock you out of gears at high rpms. that's why you should do the jacking up and all that. it's the only real way to tell if it's adjusted correctly(3" off the floor engagement). any more or less can cause damage to certain components.
Old Jun 24, 2007, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tha Shocker!
I know many ppl have had grinding issues w/their tranny and simply changing to better fluids or raisng their clutch pedal some solved the problem. Well, i had the infamous 3rd gear grind, adjusted my clutch pedal up some and still grinded, I then swapped out the Diaqueen fluid & replaced it with BG Synchroshift II and still had the same problem for months. I was very frustrated being that my car was already modified & heard horror stories of ppl trying to take their cars back to Mitsu to fix the problem and just getting shut down. So the other day i went out to my car and for some reason decided to adjust my clutch pedal INWARD instead of outward like most posts suggest. I adjusted the nut in pretty good, with very little travel distance of the rod and gave it a test drive for about 15 min. shifting into each gear all at different rpms and i couldn't belive it. THE GRINDING WAS COMPLETELY GONE!!! Has been perfect for days now w/no issues other than getting use to the new shorter travel clutch feel. So if you have the same issue adjusting the pedal inward may solve the issue rather than adjusting it outward like in my case. Hope this can help others out.
sorry to bring back and old thread but this is what used to happen with my car if i ajusted it all the way outward always leaving freeplay my car would grind but more inward my gear box wouldnt grind funny to see that someone else had the same outcome as me
Old Jun 29, 2007, 03:14 PM
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So if I've recently developed a high RPM lockout when only shifting from 2nd into 3rd gear, will lengthening the rod to increase travel fix this kind of problem or will it cause problems in the 4 other gears?
Old Jun 29, 2007, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Steiner
So if I've recently developed a high RPM lockout when only shifting from 2nd into 3rd gear, will lengthening the rod to increase travel fix this kind of problem or will it cause problems in the 4 other gears?
it should help. only one way to find out, try it.
Old Jun 29, 2007, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Steiner
So if I've recently developed a high RPM lockout when only shifting from 2nd into 3rd gear, will lengthening the rod to increase travel fix this kind of problem or will it cause problems in the 4 other gears?
I have the same lock-out issue. I'm going to lengthen mine this weekend (hoping this will help). Nothing to loose on testing it out.
Old Jun 29, 2007, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by evrblazin
I have the same lock-out issue. I'm going to lengthen mine this weekend (hoping this will help). Nothing to loose on testing it out.
When did it start for you? I'm still on the stock clutch at about 40k miles. For me it started after swapping in a WORKS short throw shifter, base bushings and under-hood bushings.
Old Jul 6, 2007, 09:08 PM
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I adjusted down to the knub, not unlike the picture below. Didn't make damn bit of difference shifting into 3rd at high RPM but it sure attracted a crowd when I inadvertently revved it to 4k in 1st at a stop sign. Back to the drawing boards. Good how-to BTW. Thanks!

Old Jul 16, 2007, 12:46 PM
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Just to clarify and add advice....

The rod wrench point uses a 6mm wrench and NOT an 8mm.

Also its easier to turn the rod by wearing a latex glove to get grip.
Old Jul 28, 2007, 12:34 PM
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Man, I love this... Alright... so tell me. On mine (EVO) the clutch doesn't engage until I almost COMPLETELY let the pedal out. It came stock like this. Which way do I need to turn to put the engagement/disengage more towards the floor?

Justus
Old Jul 29, 2007, 12:57 PM
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Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?, i have tried to move this LOCK NUT with the 12mm wrench and it dosent move, it looks like its weld to the gold plate, I also tried to take out the pedal (there a pin holding it there) and the grap the rod and then move the gold plate, but I have been able to do it, I just dont have any space-

its very frustraring since everyone in here who has done this, says its very easy


I need help
Old Aug 15, 2007, 05:31 PM
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Did you try turning the other way?
Old Dec 17, 2007, 09:47 PM
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hrm... i've recently developed a type of notchyness shifting from first to second.. should i adjust the clutch pedal up or down? stock clutch nd all

as the clutch wears.. do i adjust the clutch pedal up? or down? how much? couple turns?

Last edited by itzcharlez; Dec 17, 2007 at 09:53 PM.
Old Dec 17, 2007, 10:00 PM
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itzcharlez - did you even read the first page? The higher the travel the easier to engage...however, if you have the rod too long or pedal to high it will effect the clutch release cylinder.

Try bleeding your clutch line to. I installed a Braided steel clutch line this weekend installed a speed bleeder. Gear engagement has improved dramatically.
Old Dec 17, 2007, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
itzcharlez - did you even read the first page? The higher the travel the easier to engage...however, if you have the rod too long or pedal to high it will effect the clutch release cylinder.

Try bleeding your clutch line to. I installed a Braided steel clutch line this weekend installed a speed bleeder. Gear engagement has improved dramatically.
that makes sence nd all but how do i know if i made it too long? lol how much do i usually have to adjust it? couple turns?


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