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05 clutch install, alternative method, makes it trivial

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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 11:15 AM
  #136  
tscompusa2's Avatar
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From: pa
Originally Posted by wizzo 8
The whole point of this t/b set up is to make it easy for installing the trans. You bolt up the trans and hit the clutch. That pops the t/b onto the input shaft of the trans. That locks it in place
do you have any idea how easy it is to lock the tob to the clutch? because it doesn't sound like you do from reading the comment above. you push the fork arm by hand and it locks with not even 1lb of force. why the hell would you want to lock it by pushing the clutch pedal in?
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #137  
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How the hell do you get the last T case bolt thats farthest away from the front behind the ACD line?

Tomorrow im going to blow it off with a impact gun but is there some other way everyone did it?
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 08:43 PM
  #138  
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From: Edm, AB.
Remove ACD Line, 22mm socket, and then take it out.
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 09:06 PM
  #139  
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Wow thanks smart ***. I'd have to say for this being the hardest thing on an evo other then building the motor the two guides are pretty vague and include little to no actual good tips or tricks.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:25 PM
  #140  
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From: Edm, AB.
What other information did you require? What other tips and or tricks did you need? I now realize you have an 03 which didn't have ACD. There should be no other reason this bolt cannot come out.

The write up is very straight forward for your car, and you really shouldn't have any issues; however if you do, just ask everyone will be happy to help!
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 10:07 AM
  #141  
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From: ?
Well I'm stuck. I can't break the 19mm bolts loose. Any other way to get the transfer case out of the vehicle without removing the cross member?
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #142  
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by 92gsxbaltimore
Well I'm stuck. I can't break the 19mm bolts loose. Any other way to get the transfer case out of the vehicle without removing the cross member?
Are you referring to the steering rack? The cross member has to come out but the steering rack doesn't. Removal of the steering rack makes things a lot easier though. Here is a walkthrough of the process without removing the steering rack. Hope it helps.

http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tec...34690daddf6c7f
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 01:06 PM
  #143  
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going to have to use this writeup soon...beh
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 02:22 PM
  #144  
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I had just done my clutch this week and man it was a pain in the as# and a half. Im a well trained all around mechanic with experience in all types of cars and man i have a lot to say. First i have the 06 six speed(obviously acd) and I dont know if the evo 8 or 5 spd is different but this was a hard job for a first time. Obviously now that I've done it i'll be easier the next time.

I thought my biggest problem was gonna be the bearing releasing or bleeding/ dealing with acd, but it was removing and installing the trans. Keep in mind i have a shop, using a lift and all the tools you can have, which helped out a lot. So i debated removing the crossmember but i thought to myself im a good tech and other ppl who do it on the floor say they can get it out just fine without removing subframe.

My biggest porblem was the shifter assembly hitting the frame and the trans hitting the subframe i lowered the engine as far as it could go and swung it all the way to the front(damaging the radiator) and was still not clearing. I finally got it out and then i said man it would be easier if i wouldve took the frame out, I attempted to put it back on and said hell no, im taking off the subframe. It was one to three easy. I dont know if it being a 9 and six speed was what made it harder but man it was f'd up.

I dropped the subframe without removing the rack and pinion cause i didnt want to deal with steering fluid and lining the shaft up, as i read one poster said he was trying to remove the nut that holds the subframe and it felt like it was stripped, i ran into that problem and thats because were the bolt is held into the frame is damaged but i heated it up and had no problem. All in all removing the subframe If you have the experience and tools is a very good idea.
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 09:04 PM
  #145  
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I've dropped several K-Series Honda tranny's, hopefully an Evo isn't as hard. I hear it's just a PIA.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:05 AM
  #146  
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From: chicago il
Originally Posted by mr.almeida
I've dropped several K-Series Honda tranny's, hopefully an Evo isn't as hard. I hear it's just a PIA.
K series are easy except the frame has to come down but theres no hassle's. No awd, no acd and they have plenty room.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #147  
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How do you install a slave cylinder i hav a leak in the line and from what i was told i have to install a whole new slave cylinder. The clutch losses pressure and i have to fill it up and pump it
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 04:57 PM
  #148  
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by evo_de_El
How do you install a slave cylinder i hav a leak in the line and from what i was told i have to install a whole new slave cylinder. The clutch losses pressure and i have to fill it up and pump it
Do you know if you have a leak in the rubber portion of the line or the metal portion?

If its a leak in the line I wouldn't see why you would "replace" the slave cylinder although you would have to disconnect the line from it, and bleed it once you've replaced the leaky line.

Here is a link to a tutorial on replacing the clutch line with a braided one. Directions are pretty much the same whether you use a braided line or a factory one.

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...34690daddf6c7f
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #149  
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From: Tallahassee
Originally Posted by krazykorean84
Do you know if you have a leak in the rubber portion of the line or the metal portion?

If its a leak in the line I wouldn't see why you would "replace" the slave cylinder although you would have to disconnect the line from it, and bleed it once you've replaced the leaky line.

Here is a link to a tutorial on replacing the clutch line with a braided one. Directions are pretty much the same whether you use a braided line or a factory one.

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...34690daddf6c7f
Well the shop said something about once the threads are damaged the whole slave cylinder is damaged and the want to charge me 224 dollars. tHEY DIDN'T EXACT;LY TELL ME WHERE IT WAS.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #150  
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I plan on doing this tomorrow, and wondered what you guys did to remove the ball joints. I really don't want to use a pickle fork, and ruin the boot. I also searched for the mitsu specific ball joint separator tool to no avail. Is there a way to drop the Subframe with the spindle intact???
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