05 clutch install, alternative method, makes it trivial
you should not need a tool, the front lower balljoint on the evo is a slip fit, not friction, so when you remove the bolt the only resistance will be from the tension in the bushings & swaybar. use caution when reassembling the balljoint as the shaft is keyed & will only allow the bolt to be fully inserted when the orientation to the spindle is correct. the tie rods on the other hand, are friction fit, but you shouldn't have any problem removing these with a universal balljoint popper
Last edited by CharlieGsanD; Jan 15, 2011 at 10:19 PM.
you should not need a tool, the front lower balljoint on the evo is a slip fit, not friction, so when you remove the bolt the only resistance will be from the tension in the bushings & swaybar. use caution when reassembling the balljoint as the shaft is keyed & will only allow the bolt to be fully inserted when the orientation to the spindle is correct. the tie rods on the other hand, are friction fit, but you shouldn't have any problem removing these with a universal balljoint popper
chances are that when it was removed previously it was not aligned with the notch in the balljoint when it was reinstalled. your going to have to use a hammer on the end of the bolt to get it out. once out the bolt & balljoint will most likely be damaged & need replacment
Step 2:
There are two lines that need to be removed. The first is a power steering line; remove the bolt on top of the power steering pump. Now you can pull the line off the pump, be sure not to loose the washer. The power steering line is also held on by a bracket near the motor mount, remove this bracket as well.
There is also a coolant line that I removed, it is back near the strut tower, the rubber line connects to a hard line, at this connection I removed the rubber line. There is also a bracket that holds the rubber line on, remove this bracket as well.
Is there anyway someone can post a picture of what this step means? Where the lines are and all?
There are two lines that need to be removed. The first is a power steering line; remove the bolt on top of the power steering pump. Now you can pull the line off the pump, be sure not to loose the washer. The power steering line is also held on by a bracket near the motor mount, remove this bracket as well.
There is also a coolant line that I removed, it is back near the strut tower, the rubber line connects to a hard line, at this connection I removed the rubber line. There is also a bracket that holds the rubber line on, remove this bracket as well.
Is there anyway someone can post a picture of what this step means? Where the lines are and all?
I could really use some help from someone on here who has done this... I so far have followed all the steps and can't seem to get the entire subframe crossmember piece to lower. It falls down a bit then just stops...
Anyone with pictures as well would really help...
Anyone with pictures as well would really help...
If you know how to lift the trans at the right angle, its fairly easy with the sub frame installed. Rear side up first to go over the rear motor mount, then level it out and push it on the block.
i wanna add some info to this old *** thread.
this is my 3rd time dropping the tranny. Going to remove subframe for the 1st time. ill post up how it goes.
Tip for removing the outter tie rod from the spindle/knuckle without any special tools other than a big hammer.
1. turn steering wheel to show as much outter tie rod as possible.
2. lossen nut and leave it holding on by a few threads.
3. use your dead blow or big hammer and hit the spindle right by the tie rod. DO NOT HIT THE NUT OR THREADS.
4. after 3-4 good hits itll just pop out with no problem. no torn boots no busted nuts or threads.
this is my 3rd time dropping the tranny. Going to remove subframe for the 1st time. ill post up how it goes.
Tip for removing the outter tie rod from the spindle/knuckle without any special tools other than a big hammer.
1. turn steering wheel to show as much outter tie rod as possible.
2. lossen nut and leave it holding on by a few threads.
3. use your dead blow or big hammer and hit the spindle right by the tie rod. DO NOT HIT THE NUT OR THREADS.
4. after 3-4 good hits itll just pop out with no problem. no torn boots no busted nuts or threads.
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