runny_yolk

Disclaimer: I am neither a documentation writer nor a professional mechanic. I've tried to proofread these instructions for correctness but would love suggested improvements/correctionsons (especially if there is an easier way to do something).


The Evo driveline consists of three components which require fluid change on a regular basis. These are: manual transaxle, transfer case, and rear differential. This is my attempt to document how to change those three fluids so that you can avoid paying the dealer for something you can do yourself.


Note: I have not replaced my rear differential fluid and will update this once I've done so.


Tools and materials:

• 17mm socket (fill plugs)
• 24mm socket (drain plugs)
• ratchet (can't turn those sockets with your hands right?)
• torque wrench (optional, but highly recommended)
• 2 funnels with about 3 feet of hose each
• oil catch pan (unless you want all that used fluid on the floor)
• something to raise your car (I used Rhino Ramps)
• 2.9 quarts of Gear oil API classification GL-4 SAE 75W-85W or 75W-90 (I used Redline MT-90)
• 0.58 quarts of Hypoid gear oil API classification GL-5 SAE90 (I used Redline 75W90)
• 0.58 quarts of Hypoid gear oil Mitsubishi Genuine Gear Oil Part No. 8149630EX or equivalent (I used Redline 75W90)
• shop towels, rags, paper towels, whatever to clean up if you make a mess :-)

First things first, although many GL-5 fluids claim to be compatible for GL-4 applications, do NOT simply use GL-5 for everything. Your manual transaxle explicitly requires a GL-4 fluid designed for manual transaxles because many GL-5 fluids contain additives that corrode bearings. Also, GL-5 fluids do not have sufficient friction for your transmission's synchronizers to engage properly. The following link at Cobb Tuning explains this in greater detail.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/gearoil/index.html

The following thread at NASIOC explains how to create a mixture of various fluids for optimal smoothness. I did not do this because I felt it was unnecessarily expensive and a total pain in the ***. However, if you're obsessive compulsive or just extremely particular about transmission fluid, you can give it a shot (and if you do, please report results!)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=324326

Unlike the engine oil, the manual transaxle and transfer case fluids cannot be changed without raising the front of your car. I used Rhino ramps ($30 from my local Wal-Mart) because I felt it was easier than using a hydraulic jack and jackstands. PLEASE do not use the scissor jack that comes with your car. They are not designed to hold up the car while you are under it. We do not want stories of Evo owners crushed under their vehicles...
Update: As per suggestions from many in this group, it would be best to have the car raised and level (ie both front and rear) in order to properly drain and fill the fluids.

Manual Transaxle & Transfer Case
Locate the appropriate fill and drain plugs. The ones for manual transaxle are located near the front passenger wheel. The ones for the transfer case are located closer towards the center of the car, behind the exhaust manifold. The fill plugs will always be located higher than the drain plugs.

Open the fill plug first and clean the plug, be sure to remove both the plug as well as the metal washer. When I removed my transfer case fill plug, fluid ran from the fill hole so be prepared.

Put the oil catch pan underneath the drain plug and slowly undo the drain plug making sure that you also remove the metal washer. As the fluid drains, you may have to move the catch pan to prevent oil from leaking to the ground.

Clean the drain plug (you will find lots of tiny metal bits attached to the magnetic portion of the manual transaxle drain plug).

Once the stream of fluid has ceased, put the drain plug back. Be sure to remember to put the metal washer back on as well. If you have a torque wrench all the plugs should be tightened to 23 ft.lb.

Now, take the funnel/hose and run the hose from the top of the engine bay into the fill hole. I found it easiest to run the hose just in front of the air filter box for the manual transaxle and just behind the engine for the transfer case.

Slowly pour the correct fluid into the funnel (note the amounts listed above). You can either measure the correct amount of fluid or if you're lazy like me, just keep pouring until fluid runs from the fill hole

Replace the fill plug. Be sure to remember the metal washer.

Check for any signs of leakage.

Repeat for transfer case if you started on the manual transaxle first.

Rear Differential
TBD

Done, grab a beer or whatever and relax. Pictures to follow

One final thing, althought the manual doesn't require these fluids to be changed until 15k miles, I highly recommend changing them once you are last the break-in period. I changed mine at 1300 miles and they were pretty dirty.

runny_yolk

Picture of the car on Rhino Ramps

runny_yolk

Picture of the manual transaxle drain plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture.

runny_yolk

Picture of the manual transaxle fill plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture. The black thing at the left is the access panel near the front passenger wheel.

runny_yolk

Picture of the transfer case drain plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture.

runny_yolk

Picture of the transfer case fill plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture.

3K

iTrader: (9)

runny_yolk
Thanks for the FYI, that's the next maintenance procedure on my agenda when I hit 3000mi. Got about 1000mi to go. Looks easier than what I thought it was going to be. Not much more difficult than changing the oil and filter.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

good post Yolk! I don't know what mitsu puts in the gearbox of these cars @ the factory, but whatever it is... its nowhere near the quality of a good oil such as the Redline Mt90.

Your gearbox feel will improve greatly once the factory oil is replaced!

jemm

iTrader: (2)

Also Yolk... it is recommended that you ALWAYS have the car level when changing these fluids..... otherwise you may be prone to overfilling / underfiling depending on where the refill hole is located.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

excellent write up and parts list!! Rhino ramps are the bomb too! I just got the lowrider version from Autobarn. I can finally get onto ramps without tearing up my bumper. However Jemm is correct for changing your tranny/tc fluids you should have jacked the rear up after you got the front on ramps. That way the car is perfectly level.

You have one clean *** garage btw!!!!!

mayhem

iTrader: (9)

When jacking up the rear, especially while on ramps, make sure to have it in gear. Your parking brake won't do jack for you at that point. I've had cars roll off of ramps before. SCARY! Even scarier when you're under it! Good right up!

webguy330i

iTrader: (17)

runny_yolk, thanks a ton for this write up. I plan on doing this with my next oil change @ 2000 miles.

BTW I found some pretty damn good pricing on these redline products @ http://www.myoilshop.com

point&shoot

iTrader: (3)

Next oil change at 2000 miles!?! You change the oil every
1000 miles? Okay, well I have a question I'm sure you can
answer. I just did my first oil change at 5000 miles (had the
dealer change the oil after break-in at 1000 miles), and I
noticed I could only fit 4 1/2 quarts of new oil in. The manual
says it should be more like 5 1/2, when you add up what's in
the oil pan plus the filter and the oil cooler.

My question is, was there something I needed to do to drain the
oil cooler? I didn't see any plug at the bottom of it. Or is it normal
to only put 4/12 quarts of oil in the car when you change it?

Thanks

Michael

runny_yolk

I changed my oil at 1000 miles after break-in and will change the oil every 3000 miles after that. In terms of oil amount, are you change the oil when the car is flat? If not, you may not be draining all of the oil. You should be putting in just under five quarts of oil. As far as the oil cooler, I didn't remove anything except the oil pan drain plug and the filter.

Just a hint, you don't have to raise your car to change the oil, it can be done on flat ground...

Hammerli

iTrader: (1)

Particularly if your car is level, you will see that some portion of the oil cooler, as well as the lines, is below the level of the oil filter mount, where the lines originate from. This means you will be leaving oil in the cooler and lines. Not normally a problem unless you had specific trouble that caused you to change the oil. About 50% of the time I'll drain the oil cooler, but I am way **** and change the oil every 1000 anyway.