Evo 8 cruise control installation
Two more bits of install 411...
Works even smoother with a factory BOV (IX metal BOV)...
And after trolling the forums, seeing all the LC-1 Wideband installs on evos... it looks like in the tunnel, there is a rubber grommet that gets you from close to the firewall, into the cabin, underneath the front-most part of the center console... If I hadn't already done it.. this would be an AMAZINGLY SIMPLE access to route wires from the engine bay into the cabin, and at a perfect place, run 2 wires over to the ECU tapped as described before, and then run the wires for the brake switch/power/controls to the driver's side... If I had that info previously, and being more than competent mechanically and electrically, I think this install could be done in the 2-4hr range, EASILY.
Works even smoother with a factory BOV (IX metal BOV)...
And after trolling the forums, seeing all the LC-1 Wideband installs on evos... it looks like in the tunnel, there is a rubber grommet that gets you from close to the firewall, into the cabin, underneath the front-most part of the center console... If I hadn't already done it.. this would be an AMAZINGLY SIMPLE access to route wires from the engine bay into the cabin, and at a perfect place, run 2 wires over to the ECU tapped as described before, and then run the wires for the brake switch/power/controls to the driver's side... If I had that info previously, and being more than competent mechanically and electrically, I think this install could be done in the 2-4hr range, EASILY.
Bringing this up a little - I have the kit but maybe it's just the pictures, but I can't quite tell how you guys attached the Rostra cable to the OEM throttle plate. I'm trying to use the "loop" connector, am I at least in the ballpark with that?
Yes you are right with that... Will be a day or two, but I can try to take a couple close pics and post here for you. I got your PM, but let's try to keep the info here, so all can see.
Thanks man! Now that I've had a better look at it, I believe the "dremel cut" referenced in the first post here is on the underside of the throttle pulley where the stock cable fastens to the pulley. It looks like there is just enough room for the stock "bar" or what have you, so in order to make room for the loop to go in that same area, a small slot has to be cut in? If that's the case, good luck getting a picture as I would think you'd need to take the TB off to get to that. That's my plan at this point so if I'm on the right track, I can snap a picture when I do it.
Cool... I have mine "apart" but I don't know if I've just gone full-retard or what, but I can't seem to get the loop around the main pulley connection and still have room to slide everything back in. Any details on where OP cut the slot or how Bassic attached that part? I appreciate the help!
Just needed the right tool I guess. I went out picked up a standard dremel cutting wheel, cut a small channel around the factory throttle cable "end" for the Rostra loop to ride in, it all went back together fine. Now it's mounting and wiring time.
All done, that wasn't so bad. Took 4 hours, not counting a trip to the store to get a cutting wheel. That tip about the grommet in the tunnel was awesome, thank you much for that! I didn't re-route any of my stock cables, just piggybacked along them and, as I said, cut a small channel in the stock tb/throttle pulley connector. To do that, I pulled the battery, UICP, fuel line out, and what I believe was a vent hose for the fuel system? It made working in that area much easier.
Also, I spent almost half an hour fixing a "duh" moment. I pulled the strut brace off but didn't put the nuts back on the struts. So, when I jacked everything up to get under the car to the tunnel, the front suspension fell out completely. That was fun to sort out with just one person, but I got it.
Either way, this isn't a difficult install, just takes time and patience and is, IMO, so effing worth it. I commute 30 miles each way to work on a freeway and cruise is just a way of life for me, plus it keeps me out of trouble in a lot of cases. Excellent use of $220 and a few hours of your time on a Saturday morning, I promise
Thanks much to the OP and bassic, the 3/7/10 settings seem perfect.
Also, I spent almost half an hour fixing a "duh" moment. I pulled the strut brace off but didn't put the nuts back on the struts. So, when I jacked everything up to get under the car to the tunnel, the front suspension fell out completely. That was fun to sort out with just one person, but I got it.
Either way, this isn't a difficult install, just takes time and patience and is, IMO, so effing worth it. I commute 30 miles each way to work on a freeway and cruise is just a way of life for me, plus it keeps me out of trouble in a lot of cases. Excellent use of $220 and a few hours of your time on a Saturday morning, I promise
Thanks much to the OP and bassic, the 3/7/10 settings seem perfect.
I'm about to place an order for this kit, Lancershop.com still the place?
this part of the process is still unclear to me. Brian states:
hopefully Brian can elaborate?
Thanks man! Now that I've had a better look at it, I believe the "dremel cut" referenced in the first post here is on the underside of the throttle pulley where the stock cable fastens to the pulley. It looks like there is just enough room for the stock "bar" or what have you, so in order to make room for the loop to go in that same area, a small slot has to be cut in? If that's the case, good luck getting a picture as I would think you'd need to take the TB off to get to that. That's my plan at this point so if I'm on the right track, I can snap a picture when I do it.
hopefully Brian can elaborate?
What do I know Doug? I use the cruise on autoX courses...

Hard to explain without some diagrams, will try to snap some pictures to explain, it is a snug fit, and it is an 'order of operations' issue.. must do B before A.. or once you do A, you can't do B.
Will try to take a few photos with the less-than-stellar camera phone, at least it will fit in that small space.

Hard to explain without some diagrams, will try to snap some pictures to explain, it is a snug fit, and it is an 'order of operations' issue.. must do B before A.. or once you do A, you can't do B.
Will try to take a few photos with the less-than-stellar camera phone, at least it will fit in that small space.
Hard to explain without some diagrams, will try to snap some pictures to explain, it is a snug fit, and it is an 'order of operations' issue.. must do B before A.. or once you do A, you can't do B.
Will try to take a few photos with the less-than-stellar camera phone, at least it will fit in that small space.
OK... I've had this cruise control system in a box for like 3 years.... there were two things holding me back from installing this:
1: to do any project you need three things. Time, Skill, and money. I seem to only have two of them at any one time.
2: That dopey switch:

I think it would look at home in a 95 Camaro... It also is a solid mount stalk with flimsy push buttons for the functions. I don't like the look, or the tactile sensation of the switch assembly. Unlike like modern cruise control switches on imports like this:

So, It looks like I have to do something custom...
Now, wheel mounted is out as I don't want to deal with clockspring wiring and the like....
So, I pulled off the steering column covers. Now while it's pretty compact in there, There is room to mount a modern switch :-)
So, I took a Lexus cruise control switch that I purchased on E-bay for like $10 shipped.

and pulled it apart to see how it works....

The way that lexus sends a cruise control signal to the CC computer is by voltage regulation... for example 12 V is accel/resume, 9V is decel/set, 3V is cancel. (these are not the actual numbers, just what it seems based off the fact that there are different resistors for each function, and they share a common power cable and signal wire. (there is a separate circuit for on/off)
I then pulled apart the rostra switch... It's similar, and they may use the exact same voltage patern, so I may have been able to just wire the Lexus switch directly into the Rostra wiring... however I don't have the Rostra system wired up, or a spare 12V battery, so I can't really test it for sure...
I could also build a translator box, and totally geek out in this project, but I really want to keep it simple. So, I decided that rather than eliminate the Rostra switch, I was just going to use the lexus switch to remotely trigger the rostra switch which will be wrapped up and hidden somewhere (at least the internals of the switch). I will also move the rostra LED to a remote location on my dash in the cluster... Maybe have it change the "Evolution" in my EL gauges from blue to green, or light up some odd function idiot light in my dash... I don't know.. I'll figure that out in the future..
So, I then de-soldered all the resistors and wires from the flexible circuit board/contacts for the Lexus switch:

I then soldered in my own wiring. There's a common, 3 switch contacts for the stalk movement, and one momentary switch on the end for "on/off" (please disregard my crappy soldering...)

I then took the housing, and cut off all the mounting flanges and excess plastic that will not be used:

I wired in the "on/off switch" to the common power, drilled some holes through the switch housing so I can route the wiring in a different way to work with the evo column

Ran some shrink wrap, then put it all back together:

Now that the switch is done, The next step is to get a small 5 wire male/female plug- receptacle set, then mount the switch against the column (There is a perfect square indentation in front of the ignition switch I can epoxy the switch to the column on two sides...) as the CC switch angles up, I can access the ignition switch without interference, and it puts the switch right at my 3 O'clock position about 3" back from the steering wheel.
I purchased a spare column under cover I can cut up to find how to put the access hole so it's perfect. Then I will wire the car, and install the body.
Thank you to all that have done the CC install previously. You've given me perfect insight on how to wire the main body and throttle cable. That was another concern that now I don't have to figure out.
I will update this thread as I make progress. However I have been a work=ahaulic lately putting in 5-6 12 hour days... so there probably won't be much progress happening soon.
1: to do any project you need three things. Time, Skill, and money. I seem to only have two of them at any one time.
2: That dopey switch:

I think it would look at home in a 95 Camaro... It also is a solid mount stalk with flimsy push buttons for the functions. I don't like the look, or the tactile sensation of the switch assembly. Unlike like modern cruise control switches on imports like this:

So, It looks like I have to do something custom...
Now, wheel mounted is out as I don't want to deal with clockspring wiring and the like....
So, I pulled off the steering column covers. Now while it's pretty compact in there, There is room to mount a modern switch :-)
So, I took a Lexus cruise control switch that I purchased on E-bay for like $10 shipped.

and pulled it apart to see how it works....

The way that lexus sends a cruise control signal to the CC computer is by voltage regulation... for example 12 V is accel/resume, 9V is decel/set, 3V is cancel. (these are not the actual numbers, just what it seems based off the fact that there are different resistors for each function, and they share a common power cable and signal wire. (there is a separate circuit for on/off)
I then pulled apart the rostra switch... It's similar, and they may use the exact same voltage patern, so I may have been able to just wire the Lexus switch directly into the Rostra wiring... however I don't have the Rostra system wired up, or a spare 12V battery, so I can't really test it for sure...
I could also build a translator box, and totally geek out in this project, but I really want to keep it simple. So, I decided that rather than eliminate the Rostra switch, I was just going to use the lexus switch to remotely trigger the rostra switch which will be wrapped up and hidden somewhere (at least the internals of the switch). I will also move the rostra LED to a remote location on my dash in the cluster... Maybe have it change the "Evolution" in my EL gauges from blue to green, or light up some odd function idiot light in my dash... I don't know.. I'll figure that out in the future..
So, I then de-soldered all the resistors and wires from the flexible circuit board/contacts for the Lexus switch:

I then soldered in my own wiring. There's a common, 3 switch contacts for the stalk movement, and one momentary switch on the end for "on/off" (please disregard my crappy soldering...)

I then took the housing, and cut off all the mounting flanges and excess plastic that will not be used:

I wired in the "on/off switch" to the common power, drilled some holes through the switch housing so I can route the wiring in a different way to work with the evo column

Ran some shrink wrap, then put it all back together:

Now that the switch is done, The next step is to get a small 5 wire male/female plug- receptacle set, then mount the switch against the column (There is a perfect square indentation in front of the ignition switch I can epoxy the switch to the column on two sides...) as the CC switch angles up, I can access the ignition switch without interference, and it puts the switch right at my 3 O'clock position about 3" back from the steering wheel.
I purchased a spare column under cover I can cut up to find how to put the access hole so it's perfect. Then I will wire the car, and install the body.
Thank you to all that have done the CC install previously. You've given me perfect insight on how to wire the main body and throttle cable. That was another concern that now I don't have to figure out.
I will update this thread as I make progress. However I have been a work=ahaulic lately putting in 5-6 12 hour days... so there probably won't be much progress happening soon.
Last edited by hatesposers; Jan 28, 2013 at 04:32 AM.
What do I know Doug? I use the cruise on autoX courses...

Hard to explain without some diagrams, will try to snap some pictures to explain, it is a snug fit, and it is an 'order of operations' issue.. must do B before A.. or once you do A, you can't do B.
Will try to take a few photos with the less-than-stellar camera phone, at least it will fit in that small space.

Hard to explain without some diagrams, will try to snap some pictures to explain, it is a snug fit, and it is an 'order of operations' issue.. must do B before A.. or once you do A, you can't do B.
Will try to take a few photos with the less-than-stellar camera phone, at least it will fit in that small space.

ok... got started 
how are you all routing and mounting your cruise control throttle cable? The OP rerouted the car's throttle cable and piggybacked along that, not sure I want/need to do that....
also, despite my best efforts there is no physical way to fit the loop connector over the throttle cable barrel and have them occupy the same space... so, since I needed to clean the throttle body anyways (getting sticky... again) I pulled it off and took a dremel to it.. slightly. I had the perfect dremel bit that I was able to groove the plastic with, see the bit in the photo below.
top photo shows where the loop goes, bottom photo shows the groove I cut.. hard to see but it was enough to make everything fit freely


how are you all routing and mounting your cruise control throttle cable? The OP rerouted the car's throttle cable and piggybacked along that, not sure I want/need to do that....
also, despite my best efforts there is no physical way to fit the loop connector over the throttle cable barrel and have them occupy the same space... so, since I needed to clean the throttle body anyways (getting sticky... again) I pulled it off and took a dremel to it.. slightly. I had the perfect dremel bit that I was able to groove the plastic with, see the bit in the photo below.
top photo shows where the loop goes, bottom photo shows the groove I cut.. hard to see but it was enough to make everything fit freely

Last edited by 4wd4me; Feb 9, 2013 at 04:59 PM.



