I was in the middle of my boost leak test today and everything looked good till around 20 psi and the outside of my 2.5" ExtremePsi coupler popped. The one that goes from the LICP to FMIC. Scared the sh*t out of me...The inside of the coupler doesn't look torn at all but the outside popped and when I sprayed it with some Windex it would bubble up right away. I mean come on ExtremePSI, your couplers can't hold 20 psi in a boost leak test?? Now I have to leave work early and make a special hour trip out to them for a new coupler either free or at a nice discount (I hope).

Also I found that 3 out of 4 of my injector 0 rings are leaking. Luckily I have a new set in my tool box....I saw some people suggest putting a tiny bit of oil or dielectric grease on the 0 rings when installing them so they seat properly. Do you guys agree with that or suggest something else???

 

You need to have tbolt clamps on your couplers. If you're using worm clamps then that isyour problem. If you're using tbolt clamps and this happened then you have a size too big or they are not tight enough
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O rings. Just replace them and install properly. Make sure seated properly and dip them in a light coat of engine oil prior to install.

 

T bolts on everything and they are the correct size...

I was using one of ExtremePSIs "Hump" couplers...

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...at=1536&page=1

It popped right on the hump...A boost leak test was done 2k miles ago and it was fine, I haven't touched the t bolts since so they should have been tight enough. I didn't even get a chance to get under the car and starting spraying it to check for bubbles before it popped.

Thanks for the advice on the 0 rings...

 

In your case add hair spray around outer mating points for fmic and licp. Cheaper tbolts need re-torquing from time to time.
Also make sure you get the t bolt clamps with the rolled lip so can apply more torque without cutting into the coupler. ETS supplies quality couplers and t-bolt clamps.

 

All of these t-bolts have the rolled lip. This is my first time using one of the "hump" couplers. I already talked to ExtremePSI about it and they said I can come swap it out no problem. I think it may have been some type of manufacturer defect in the coupler. I am going to switch back to the straight coupler instead of one of these "hump" couplers. Ill put the new coupler on & swap out those injectors o rings tonight and hopefully Ill be good to go.

 

Put in a new set of injector o rings last night and fixed all those leaks. Also put a new FMIC to LICP coupling on last night, no leaks there. I found a small leak on my intake manifold gasket now. After work I will try and snug up the 2 nuts next to the leak and see if that stops it, hopefully. Besides that I think I'm good to go, couldn't find anything else and I sprayed the hell out of everything. I tested it up to 20-22psi and let the air sit in there and it probably took 2mins+ for all the air to finally find its way out. PS, I am also doing the boost leak test with the car cold, as I haven't ran the car since last week. I may let the car run for a little bit tonight and do the test again after its "warm" and see if there is a difference at all.

 

Car feels great after getting everything back together!! I turned the boost down about 2 psi from before and the car is also a little richer up to and at redline due to all the leaks being fixed. So no boost leaks & 2 psi less the car feels a good bit better then before. It's crazy that in 2k miles 3 of my injector o-rings started leaking...

PS...I tested it up to 25psi last night and it took 3-4 mins+ for the air to slowly find its way out of the system and get down to 0.

 

Did a BLT today, everything was pretty sealed. I capped off the vac line that goes to the bov. During the test I noticed air escaping from the recirc part of the bov.

Is that normal? You can't really hear it, but you can feel the air.

 

no that means the BOV is leaking.

 

Kind of figured, I remembered when I had a 2g the stock plastic bov leaked over 9ibs. But during that test you could hear the leak from bov.

Guess it's time to upgrade, I have a MR bov didn't think it would be bad at only 85k.

Could it be related to my cold idle surge?

 

im not sure, but a vacuum leak definitely wont help anything. it might not leak until a certain positive pressure hits it though, so chances are its not leaking with just vacuum.

 

Couldn't find any vac leaks either. I deleted my egr so most of those lines are gone and capped off tb ports.

 

Anybody ever blow out their oil cap seal? Should this have even happened?

 

what do you mean blow it out? its not really meant to be air tight. the seal will harden, get worn over time its only rubber.. just replace it.. i wouldn't be concerned about it. but no, ive never had one go bad on me before.

 

After I got some rest I realized what I did. I pressure tested through the intake thus I pressurized the valve cover. My bad.