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Jacking Points with a Floor Jack

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Old Dec 18, 2003 | 07:36 AM
  #16  
wmcorcor's Avatar
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The problem I run into is trying to jack it using the area they recommend (I do like the puck idea) and then trying to put the jack stand in close enough to be in the same area but without running into the jack itself.
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Old Dec 18, 2003 | 08:00 AM
  #17  
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From: edmonton
be careful jacking cars, this guy in my town got crushed by his crx last year because the jackstand went out from under him.. seems so much hp was being cranked out the axle kept popping out or something, so it was regular for him to pop it back in each day, then i guess he got lazy and didnt use the sub jack stands just incase the main jack fell out. my friend inherited the car, so it's for sale if anyone wants it. =)
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Old Dec 18, 2003 | 08:17 AM
  #18  
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From: Vienna, VA
Are you saying he was revving the car while it was on jack/jack stands?
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Old Dec 18, 2003 | 03:09 PM
  #19  
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From: VA
Originally posted by CLeeEvo
Are you saying he was revving the car while it was on jack/jack stands?
I think what he was saying was that the car was breaking on an almost daily basis, so the guy was working on it almost daily. So, one day he got lazy... and then the lift broke.
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Old Dec 18, 2003 | 05:10 PM
  #20  
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From: SW PA
Do you have some kind of adapter to fit the notch? If I had a thingy like on the scissor jack, I would do it there, but it doesn't seem too sturdy to put a jack on a piece of metal edge-wise like that.
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Old Dec 19, 2003 | 06:23 AM
  #21  
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From: Clarkston, MI
Not only is it not sturdy, but it'll scratch and bend the h*ll out of it. Heck, even the POS scissor jack does some damage when you use it.
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Old Dec 19, 2003 | 06:36 AM
  #22  
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From: Illinois
Um, doesn't everyone use a small block of wood or some-such in the floor jack (scrap of 2x4, perhaps) 'cup'? That won't mar or deform any softer metal on the diff or what-not...

I just wish there was a spot in the middle of each side so I can more easily rotate the tires on each side with a single jacking exercise on each side ... *shrug*
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Old Dec 19, 2003 | 06:40 AM
  #23  
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From: Northern Michigan
If you use a hockey puck, as I describe above, that helps or eliminates the scratching issue. You have to put a pretty deep and wide kerf in the puck to accomodate the flange. I also use a puck between the floor jack and the rear diff.
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Old Dec 19, 2003 | 06:47 AM
  #24  
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From: Northern Michigan
"I just wish there was a spot in the middle of each side so I can more easily rotate the tires on each side with a single jacking exercise on each side ... *shrug*"


My car has been in storage for a couple of months, but, as I recall, If you jack up high enough on the front point, it will lift the rear wheel off the ground as well. Don't know if you can raise the front from the rear-side jacking point.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:46 PM
  #25  
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My goodness, I just put my car up on stands for the first time to rotate the tires this weekend. Once up on stands everything was fine, it was getting that front cover panel off that was a pain in the butt. I ruined 3 clips, one because i just had to rip it out with a vise grip. It seems the two worst ones were the ones that went through the inter-cooler flaps. I'm thinking of possibly cutting out a hole that the jack can fit through to jack up the front so that i don't have to continually take that bugger off every time.

On a jack stand note, I do like the hockey puck idea for the stands. I've used 3/8 inch thick rubber matting swatches to cushion the stands and so far I think it worked ok. I am sticking with the factory jack points though, I mean, come on, the manual is saying for mechanics to lift the car with a lift at the jack points, so why shouldn't we?
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Old Feb 19, 2004 | 06:07 AM
  #26  
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally posted by nsnguyen
The ones that the factory specifies are a central point under an access panel in the front undertray and the rear diff. I actually used a beefy looking support that is inboard of the factory jack point and close to the bolt for the front crossbraces. Don't use the factory jack points with your floor jack, you'll bend the metal. JC whitney does sell a block that goes on your floor jack so you can use the scissor jack point..
Jack Blocks
Since they were cheap I purchased one of these and tried it out. I also tried out my new aluminum jack! It'll be very handy at the track this year. Anyway, with the block I lifted both wheels(on the same side) from the front jack point. this will be VERY convienent. The block fit fine and nothing bent.
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Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:06 PM
  #27  
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From: Las Vegas
I bought a hydraulic scissor jack at Pep Boys. It works just like the OEM, but stronger and just pump it to lift. Use the lifting points under the side skirts, then place a jack stand under the frame rails and lower the jack. Simple.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 12:25 AM
  #28  
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From: Sierra Madre, CA
so how hard is it to get that access cover off in the front???
( i know, old thread...)
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 06:51 AM
  #29  
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From: Northern Michigan
It takes about 3-10 minutes to take off the cover (depending on how many times you've done it!). The problem is that the fasteners were not designed to be reused very much. Unless you are really careful, the fasteners get destroyed after you have taken the cover off a couple of times, then need to be replaced. If they get damaged and are reused, the cover can be loose and rattle (took me days to track down that stupid rattle.)

One of these days I'm going to look into getting reusable metal fasteners for that cover.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 10:52 AM
  #30  
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by 93civEJ1
I just use where they notched the metal where you are supposed to....seems fine for me

me too
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