netracer

I need detail tips on fluid change namely gear oil, ACD and AYC. I was under the car but totally confused which is which.

Recommendation of brand is welcomed. Pls do not ask me to go to the nearest service centre as the authorised Mitsubishi is at least 350kms away!

Oh yes, I'm from Malaysia and only 12 Evo VIIIs are available to date.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

Hi i will try and post some pics, you have pm.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

make sure the car is level before filling... esp with the AYC, it does not liked to be overfilled

The Tranny & Transfer fluid filling are just like the us model. The plugs are in the same place! You must read these two excellent threads: by RunnyYolk & SimEvo

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=47574
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1


Fluids :
Tranny = 2.8L Redline MT-90 75w90 GL-4


This pic is looking from the front of the car towards the back..

jemm

iTrader: (2)

Transfer case :

0.6L of 75w90 GL-5 Gearoil : Redline 75w90 or Amsoil 2000 75w90 synthetics

jemm

iTrader: (2)

For the AYC Hydraulic fluid contained in the boot resovoir

Checking the levels :

1. Inspect the fluid with a syringe, draw out some and place it in a clear glass container or test tube is it VERY dirty? If so have it replaced (see #4)

2. Stop the vehicle, leave it for 90mins to allow the levels to rise (i.e. for the ayc accumulator pressure to drop),

3. If AFTER 90 mins, the levels are less than the minimum add some Mitsubishi ATF - SPIII to top it up.

4. Drawing out the fluid with a syringe and replacing makes no sense as you will not be getting rid of most of the fluid in the pump system, go to your dealer and have them flush through some new fluid with the aid of the Mut -II/III diagnostic computer or the very secret manual technique.


You don't need to bleed your ayc hydraulic system unless the fluid is dirty beyond belief or one has done work on the pump / hoses etc. Do not believe the hype, you don't have to do it every 4500Kms. This bleeding the ayc hydralic system ever 4500 has never been posted in any service manual or bulletin .... its a $$ making scheme by those UK dealers if you ask me...

here is a sample of my ATF after 18,000KMs .... crystal clear (i know i can't take photos... but you get the idea ) :

jemm

iTrader: (2)

The rear diff gear oil (separate from the ayc section!) is easy to change, in fact the procedure is the same as the US model, although the filler and drain plugs are in slightly different locations....

1. Unscrew the differential fill plug
2. Unscrew the drain plug, allow all the fluid to drain out.
3. Refit drain plug and tighten.
4. Use a oil pump or a long tube and funnel to fill the diff with 0.55L of Gl5 synthetic gear oil 75w90 eg... Redline or Amsoil 2000
5. Refill until the fluid just reaches the top of the fill hole and starts to leak out. Wait till it stops leaking out totally.
6. Refit filler plug and tighten.
7. Wipe off the excess oil.

insomniac_evo

iTrader: (3)

thats what i called a detailed explaination

jemm

iTrader: (2)

Now here is where it gets hard. I say HARD because unless you have the small hands and patience of Baby Jesus, getting access to the AYC Fill plug on the 7 & 8 is very hard..... *it will cause you to cuss *

The fill hole is a 17mm plug located high on top of the diff, this area is blocked by the rear diff crossmember..

Test to see if you can pull the fill plug and refit it, if not then DO NOT pull the drain plug, take it to the dealer and have them do it

Fluid :

Evo 7 : 0.7 L
Evo 8 : 0.55 L

of Mitsu ATF-spIII (this is the same fluid that mitsu uses in their Auto trannies of all their cars, so you should be able to get it at the dealer). Although some people use Honda power steering fluid or AMSOIL ATF in place of the SPIII, I would stick to the Mitsu fluid as its cheap and readily available at any mitsu dealership.

The purpose of the this fluid is to bathe the clutch packs (ayc uses a wet clutch system) and so prevent premature clutch wear. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF AYC MAINTENANCE.
There is some controversy as to what is the official service interval. With hard use change it every 5000miles, otherwise every 18,000. In the early days of the Evo 4, when some of them had faulty ayc ECUs that fried the clutches, increased the service interval to 4500. With the new generation of ayc cars, it is said that will increase the interval to 18k. I change it @ 15,000Kms to be safe!

netracer

jeremy, u r the MAN!

thanks for the detailed info - i'm sure all of us benefitted from this and those guys in Mitsu service centres, r u sure the charges r correct!!??

jemm

iTrader: (2)

thanks additional info has been added to the above post.

The info posted here is from the mitsu service manual. In Jamaica we have a lot of ayc cars (evos & galant vr4s), to date there has only been 1 case of pump failure (which was traced to a faulty ayc ecu). Compare this to the UK, in which they bleed their hydraulics religiously, and have the HIGHEST incidences of pump & pressure switch failure. We don't bleed our ayc system unless air has gotten introduced into it via maintenance, or the fluid is very dirty. ATF is not hydroscopic like brake fluid, so it does need to be bled regularly. In fact regular bleeding may introduce air into the system if its not done correctly. From what i can gather in emailing the Japs is that they don't bleed it regularly either.

The Europeans do suffer from very cold weather which tends to make ATF jelly like, so this maybe the reason for the frequent bleeding..... who knows.

We have an ongoing discussion on the ayc bleeding on the MLR here :
http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...threadid=30763

KIDBANGA10

iTrader: (6)

Is it ok to use redline shock proof in the transfer case?

jemm

iTrader: (2)

I don't have any personal experience with it. A few Evom members do it, and have no problems. Do a search for "shockproof". The best results seem to be with the Redline MT-90/75w90 as per Fireball, runnyyolk, and numerous other posts.

gunzo

iTrader: (2)

Do you need to bleed the AYC ????
The manual say rear axle .. but never really say if bleeding is done for the ACD or AYC... it only says when removing the hydraulic unit bleed the fluid line in ACD side ..

I have not changed the ATF portion of the AYC and I'm running close to 30k km
Confirm the torque transfer mechanism ATF is totally separate from the hydraulic pump ATF ??

jemm

iTrader: (2)

You do NOT have to bleed the ACD/AYC Hydraulic ATF unless for the reasons specified in the manual, i.e. working on the units/piping etc. The torque transfer mechanism is TOTALLY separate from the hydraulic pump ATF. This is what needs to be changed regularly.

Pull out a sample of the atf from the resovoir and take a pic of it in a test tube and post it here, I would like to see what it looks like. As you can see after 17,000kms mine is crystal clear.... No way in hell i need to change that fluid for the conceivable future......

gunzo

iTrader: (2)

I know there's no need to bleed

It's just not stated clearly in the manual which portion connects to what .. that's why when I saw the ATF drain plug ... I left it totally out just in case I drain the wrong thing and have to pay thru my nose for the bleeding :P :P

Okay .. if that's the case .. I'm getting it drained out since I've never done it