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ARP head stud install,no cam removal

Old Sep 18, 2005 | 03:21 PM
  #46  
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From: Kailua, HI
never mind, that was a stupid question. Forgive my denseness.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 09:12 AM
  #47  
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From: Las Vegas and HATING it
Originally Posted by BJai02
I am bring this thread back to live!
I was going to do the head studs this weekend along with my camshafts; however, I might not do it just because it could be true that I should not touch it if it ain't broke. I am still debating...

I am reading the service manual and find that using the stock headstuds, I should torque it to 58 ft-lb in this sequence:
8-6-1-3-9
10-4-2-5-7
Then, loosen them all again in a reverse order. And finally re-tighten the loosened bolts to 15 ft-lb in the above sequence again.

What's up with that? I guess it doesn't apply to us who is using this one-bolt-at-a-time method huh?
Why in the F would you start from the middle, and work your way out
When you are removing a cylinder head you always start from the outside and work your way in.
I think the seqence above is the right way... start at 10 and work your way to 1.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 02:02 PM
  #48  
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Im gonna do studs soon too but I dont like taking chances Heads coming off. New power enterprise head gasket and cams. Might even get the head machined (mabey not)
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 08:45 PM
  #49  
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From: NC
as a revision to this writeup i noticed the nuts where actually a 1/2 inch socket not a 13 mm as previously stated..... the 13mm would work but the nut is actually a 1/2 inch on your new head studs.....
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Old May 31, 2007 | 01:21 PM
  #50  
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From: Wichita, Kansas
more power equalls head lift, these bolts result in no head lift.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #51  
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From: clemson,sc
just got mine for 89.99 shipped but im doing the headgasket and the timing belt while at it
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Old May 31, 2007 | 03:11 PM
  #52  
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From: New Jersey
I don't have any instructions from a set of ARP's sitting around anymore, but doesnt the instructions have the torque values in them?
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 08:53 PM
  #53  
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From: IOWA
changing head gasket

what are the steps to taking of the head on my 2005 evo8 , you want to mark the belt and stuff to not mess up the timing when putting it back together?
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Old May 3, 2008 | 12:56 PM
  #54  
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umm i heard you should do one head stud at a time , cause if u do all at once u risk breaking the seal on the head and getting fluid between the head gasket and head which i heard can lead to premature head gasket failure.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 01:34 PM
  #55  
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From: york, pa 17402
we never do them one at a time... we always pull the head and use a new gasket.

cb
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 03:47 PM
  #56  
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From: W SUNSET & PCH
Originally Posted by CBRD
we never do them one at a time... we always pull the head and use a new gasket.

cb
also known as the "CORRECT WAY"
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 11:33 PM
  #57  
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From: Destin/Fort Walton Beach, FL
one question for me........to better ensure there isnt alot of oil in the holes so as to effect how tight one stud is from another....can i just carefully stick some qtips down in there to soak up all the oil and then put the studs in......

i know that qtips sometimes leave a lint behind so i didnt know it that would cause it to be a no no.......?
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:42 PM
  #58  
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From: wexford,pa
dont use q-tips you use to clean your ears. They have specially electronic ones that wont leave the cotton stuff behind.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #59  
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From: Destin/Fort Walton Beach, FL
yeah i did this headstud install kinda the same like described but used a technique advised by a mitsu tech......

untorqued all of them and then did it one by one from the inside to the outside......hitting 31 psi and no headlift......

but im doing a rebuild soon anyways so it really didnt matter to me.......lol
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 02:34 AM
  #60  
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From: wichita ks
Did my head stud install went really will...now have a 1000 miles on them and no problems with 27 psi
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