For those of you who want to replace the clutch line. (Some Pics)



1. Make sure you can reach the master cylinder banjo bolt. Taking it off is easy with a ratchet wrench but putting it back with copper washers .
2. Take the battery and tray out. It's pretty heavy so be strong .
3. Drain the clutch fluid out or it could get messy. Banjo bolt below the bleeder vavle or clutch pedal it out the bleeder vavle with a small hose attached. It's not much fluid on the clutch side.
4. Be patient when putting banjo bolt back on. It's really tight space. Careful not to drop the bolt and copper washers. Once dropped, copper washers can't be pick up by a magnet . So have couple of spares just in case you can't find them.
5. As you know by now, both the brake and the clutch fluid share the same reservoir. But don't let this fool you as the reservoir is divided by a wall for a simple reason; if your clutch line breaks, your brakes will still have fluids to operate. So make sure after you have installed the new line, fill the reservoir above the max line as it will flow over the wall into the clutch side. Add fluid as needed until max line when done.
6. After you have done everything and the clutch pedal just sticks to the floor no matter how much you pump it. Read #5 again and make sure there's no leak anywhere.


For detailed instruction:

http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?techID=26

 

great tips for everyone who is going to do this.

 

Im having trouble with #2, how do you get strong?

 

Wax on, Wax off, like that.

 

Easiest way to do this is to feed the new line down from the top (above master cylinder) to get the banjo bolt started. Once you get it threaded in some, then feed the other end back down through it's original path. (down under the strut bar, etc)

 

yeah da mn that blasted banjo bolt

 

I'm doing this install in a few days. Bookmarked this for later use

 

I didn't have a wrench to reach the banjo bolt

 

Can someone help me out here...

Which one of these would make getting the banjo bolt off....

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...&gobutton=find

 

as tmizcat says feed it to the master cylinder first and attach then run the line to the hard line. SO MUCH EASIER THIS WAY AS IT IS HARD TO GET THE LINE FLUSH AGAINST THE MASTER CYLINDER. this is problem with install. the easiest way to remove the bolt is to go buy a stubby 17mm 12 point/open end (sears has them $5). i was not strong enough to break it (with no room to move) so i got a long extension and a 12mm socket. i put the stubby 17mm closed end on the clutch line bolt then used the extension/socket against the open end to break it. it was super easy this way. i spent 30min-1hr prior to figuring this out. it took 2 minutes after i got the parts. so go get a 17mm stubby, it will make life easier.

 

Could I bleed the clutch fluid using a pressure bleeder? Anything different pressure bleeding clutch fluid as opposed to the brake system? I usually pressure bleed at 25 psi when doing the brakes, is this ok as well for the clutch fluid? Thanks.

 

Put my SS line on today, I lost a compression washer on the banjo bolt so I went at it a different way the second time. I used a twist tie wrapped around the threads a bit to keep the washers and banjo bolt in place while I tried to get everything started. Got a few turns and pulled the twist tie. It worked like a charm.