did you have to remove the radiator fans to get to it or did you go from below?

 

I did removed the radiator fan but it's extremely hard to take the fan completely out with the top radiator hose still in place. I ended up bending a couple of the cooling fins on the lower part of the radiator.

 

I did the same thing but took the fans out, had to remove the radiator hose, and got coolant everywhere. I have heard that removing the splash shield and going from underneath the car is easier. Has any one tried this?

 

Going under the car is the way to go. I went from above and did as you explained. I spilled coolant everywhere. But it got the job done and I burned off the coolant fairly easily. I actually rinsed off the radiator and undercarriage with a hose being careful where I sprayed. Then let it idle for awhile and drove it around to burn it all off.

 

I did it from under the car.. its REALLY hard to get a good grip on the hoses, but a long screwdriver was enough to push the hoses off.. To get the hoses back on, you would have to remove the air box (which you are doing for your EBC install, but I wouldn't have had to for my MBC) and remove the MAF sensor.. once the sensor is out of the way, you can snake your hand under the intake pipe between it and the radiator hose and reach the nipples to push the hoses on.. The spring clamps are a pain to get back on, I used needle nose pliers and did it from under the car... but the clips were too loose, so I used High-temp nylon zip ties instead.

 

you are MUCH better off removing the radiator fan, you need to remove the upper hose, and possibly the intercooler bracket so you can snake the fan and its control module out from the top.. It provides MUCH MORE access to the turbo assembly and will make things a little less frustrating.. TRUST ME..

 

aside from moving the radiator fan, for me, was getting in to remove the stock clamps and trying to do so without making it ovious that they were removed. My goal was to remove all the stock lines and gently as possible without adding new marks or depressons to the hose, or scrape off any factory paint which they added to some hoses and/or bolts. This way if sometihng does go wrong later on I can reinstall the stock boost lines and parts and take it in for warranty work.

 

Great write up

 

FYI: The Greddy E0-1 only uses all those functions in conjunction with the Greddy Emanage. The SBC-iD is incredible because of its dual solenoid construction. Its a much better boost controller.

 

AMEN!

This is my 2nd unit, lastone was on my GSX..... I HIGHLY recommend it. If it could only make coffee, damn...

 

What do you guys have your gain set at?? I just got my unit in the mail, and would like to know what to set everything at for quick boost response and my high boost setting around 21psi...

 

well since the evo already builds boost fast due to it's turbine design your gain isn't as high as you tihnk, I itnhk mine is set at like 35 or 50 just set it to a point where your boost builds up fast but doesn't spike when it peeks.... If it peeks turn it down slowly till it levels off at full boost. As far as set off is 11psi mine is at 42 for 16/16/2psi and 50 for 19psi but every car is different and outside air plays a role as well as after market parts. My car is stock. All about tuning...

PS once your gain is set don't mess with it unless you change parts, jsut toy with set.

 

replace all your vacum hoses that you need to work with .

Get something better than OEM. Easier to do all the hose work away from the vehicle then reinstall. Assembly is done away from the car and then you can cut away the OEM hoses that are PITA to remove intact.lol.

All you need to do is reconnect period, and that is so much easier and you get a hose that will not expand and give you better response on boost and lasts almost a lifetime.

great info guys......just readin along is all..

cheers

gino

www.gb-motorsports.com
www.mpjperformance.com

 

Great write-up, I would like to add a couple of points.

1) SBC-id III does come with all connectors and clamps needed, even 6mm silicone hose and adapters to go to 3mm we have coming off turbo and actuator.

2) As an alternative to running everything through the firewall fitting, I ran the pre-wrapped electrical through the grommet just above the driver's side kick panel. That allows one to run the wire through the fender, and into the engine bay just above the location the solenoid is mounted in this write-up. The Teflon line (small diameter, included with T for pressure line with III version) can then easily be run through the firewall fitting without making any cuts, since it is small and has good rigidity. Access can be gained to that area from outside the car simply by removing the 5 plastic expansion fittings holding the fender liner in place.

 

very nice!!