Here is the grommet I referred to, SBC-id line is in red.

 

Solenoid with line running into fender. Connector is shrink wrapped well back onto factory tubing for a good seal. Arrow shows location line enters fender.

 

install ways are all diferrent ... We do ours from the pass. side wall on the round gromet at the corner behing the glove box and then go under the car and just remove a few tabs and bend the center cover to get to the vacum lines, we also mount the soleniod on the side of the radiator bracket (away from the hot air ofcourse ..) and use a 10 mm nut and bolt.

All this is done without removing any hardware.

Now the for the location. We went behind the glove box as it is out already, mount it side by side with the greddy emanage/factory ECU tucked in nicely and all power connections we connected from the ECU harness (we have the Meter ID as well) pin 24 and 25 for 12 v switched and chassis ground and 86 for speed sensor wire.

The unit we mounted behind the ash tray on an aluminum V bracket and fastened with velcro..... Nice set up and looks pro..

cheers

gino

 

For those that dont want to break the $2 clip can simply press the center pin and the clip will release. The clip is a two part piece that can be re-used over and over.
For rej-installation of the same clips, simply put the larger part thru the console back into the hole in the metal mount, then just push the pin portion in lightly and snap, done.

 

What exactly does the blitz sbc-id ebc do?

 

It's a boost controller, lets you adjust boost from the cockpit.

 

sbc id withthe power meter rocks ! why ? coz you can set two differrent boost settings depending on speed and not spike at all. then a diff. set on higher gears etc. I will post pics on the shop cars mounting location to share with everyone.



gino

 

Thanks guys for this write up, I used this and It made my install alot easier and really I only have one question. I followed the way that you connected your IN and OUT hoses and I capped off the stock syliniod and the intake pipe nipple but why couldn't you just remove the stock sylinoid and simply replace it with the new one? I am sure there is a reason but I didn't know so I wanted to ask someone with some better experience.

syliniod <----Don't know if that is the right spelling.

Thanks in advance! GTVEVO

 

because it throws a check engine light, ecu knows weither or not it's plugged in.

 

Right I don't mean unplug the stock syliniod , I just mean the hoses and put then into the new? Just a swap on vacume hoses then cap off the stock syliniod. Basically leaving the stock T in place between the Act and the Turbo and still let it blead off into the Intake nipple inlet. Sorry If I mislead ya if I did.

 

Because the Blitz solinoid is not a bleeder type solinoid like the stock one is. The blitz solinoid takes full control over what the wastegate sees as boost, boost is not "leeked" off it is rather restricted from ever entering the solinoid which in turn stops the wastegate from seeing it as well... The vacume hoses will need to be changed from the turbo to the new solinoid, the new solonoids nipples are two times the size of the stock vacume hoses inner diameter. When you buy the blitz kit new it will come with adapters. Hardest part is removing the stock hoses from the turbo, depending on how much stuff you wanna remove and how clean of an install you'd like to do.

 

Ok this makes sense and I figured that there was a good explanation! Yes I used the adapters supplyed to hook everything up and it works well but I was just wondering and I knew this was the right place to ask.

 

HAHA no problem, enjoy the new boost controller, and please note how much harder boost kicks in compaired to stock...

 

here's mine installed by gb-motorsports,even the mechanic at the dealership smiled when he drove my car for a scheduled check and told me my car felt way better than stock.

 

what r your setting at?