This is my first install I've ever documented so bare with me. I will try and explain as best I can with the pictures I took.

First things first. Make sure your kit has everything you need. Most likely it won't. I made several trips to the auto shop to complete this bastard because of missing clamps, hose, etc. After that, let's locate where the stock solenoid is. In this pic you will see the stock T setup between the wastegate/actuator and the turbo. The hose that runs away from the two is leading you towards the solenoid. It just so happens to be directly under the airbox.

 

Now that we've located the stock solenoid we'll need to figure out where to place the new solenoid. The stock location is actually a good spot and is what I used. You'll also notice in the red box is where I put the stock solenoid which must remain connected. There's a 12mm bolt you can attach the stock solenoid to as seen. Cap off both nipples on the stock solenoid and cap off the nipple from the MAS pipe the 2nd hose from the stock solenoid was connected to.

Now with the stock solenoid capped off, the blitz solenoid in place and the hoses from turbo and actuator removed connect a new hose from the turbo to the IN valve on your blitz solenoid. Then connect a hose from the actuator to the OUT valve on the blitz solenoid. I made the hoses barely reach the solenoid with just enough slack to prevent any pinching. I also zip tied the hoses to the MAS pipe for cleanup and to prevent them from hitting hot spots.

 

Now the hard part. I'm not kidding, routing the wires and hose through the firewall was a nightmare. I'm sure it would be much easier the next time around but the first time it sucked. Anyhow, locate the rubber gromet where the ECU wires are fed through. If you look from the inside it's under the glove box on the passenger side. Here's a pic with my vacuum hose and Blitz harness wires coming through marked with blue lines.

 

Here's a look from the outside of where the wires are fed through. It's hard to see but if you look in the back on the left side of the engine you can see the rubber housing for the ECU wires. I marked the vacuum hose and harness wires heading towards the spot.

 

Now that you've located the spot to feed the wires through it's time to get em through! The best method is to attach the wires to a coat hanger, wrap it in electrical tape or whatever will hold it and feed it through the rubber gromet. *NOTE* There are two layers of rubber. Which made it a pain in the *** to feed the wires through. First thing I did to make the hole is take a knife and cut a slice throught the rubber from the inside of the car. Make sure to go through both layers and make the slit big enough to accomodate the plug. It's just a slit so the rubber reseals over the wires after they're fed through. I had to cut the coiled insulator in half to cover the wires in the engine bay and inside the car. They just won't go through the rubber gromet on the wires. The rubber is too tight and just pulls it off the wires. Next feed the vacuum hose through the same way. Make sure you have enough length to reach the spot you'll be tapping into for your low pressure reading. Now that that's taken care of find a spot to tap into the pressure line. The manual says to tap into the line on the intake manifold after the throttle body. There is a hose there but if you follow that line a hair further to the second spot it's much easier to do. I cut a small piece in the middle of the hose out to accomodate the T I installed for the vacuum line.

 

That pretty much takes care of the parts in the engine bay. Only thing left in there is cleanup. Using zip ties to keep the wires and hoses in place and out of the way. It's really easy to keep the install clean in here. I found lots of area to work with.

Now inside the car for the final installation pieces. Best thing to do is figure out where you want the display unit. I'm going the fully stealth route so I opted to place the display behind the stick in front of the ashtray. I'm going to make a backing with suction cups to hold it in place so I can see it while driving. THEN when I leave the car I can pull out the ashtray and stick the display unit under the center console for complete invisibility. With this in mind I mounted the control unit under the center console directly beneath the cubby hole under the stereo as you can see.

 

After I mounted that (it's still easy to plug all the harnesses and display into.) it's time to find a 12V source to splice into to bring life to our little unit. I spliced into the cigarette lighter's power source. In this picture the blue box is where the splice was made. The brownish purple wire is the main power wire leading to the cigarette lighter. In the red box, for those that were wondering about the TT installs, is where I spliced into the parking break wire. Back a little further towards the armrest which is out of the picture is a screw bolted into the frame. Perferct for the ground wire.

 

We're practically done. Attach the vacuum hose for low pressure to the teflon hose sticking out of the back of the control unit. It doesn't require a clamp but make sure it's on securely. I used a 5/32 hose so the teflon hose fit snugly inside the vacuum hose's hole. After I pushed that in I put a little silicon around the connection to seal it in. Next plug in the harness wires from the Blitz solenoid into the controller. Now plug in the display unit into the controller and mount it where you want it. Then put the car back together. That's it!!! Now you're ready for happy boosting!

 

Here's a pic of my display unit. It won't be exactly like this but you get the idea.

 

wow excellent install, would you mind quickly running through how you removed the center console exactly? thanks !

 

No prob. I don't have pics but I can take some if you like. For now here's what you do. Open up the lid of the armrest. Inside there's 2 screws to remove. After that, take a small flathead and pry the IC spray switch housing out. Disconnect the plug to the switch. At this point you can pull the armrest piece off over the parking brake. The front center piece has 2 screws holding it down under the spot where the IC spray switch was. Remove those. Undscrew your shift knob. Grab underneath the sides of the center piece and run it along the bottom to pull it out of the snap spots on both sides. Towards your foot area there's actually a seperate piece that needs to be removed. It just pulls off for the most part. Under that you'll notice a screw like peg that's plastic holding the center piece in place. If you CAN pinch the back of it's pegs to pull it out easily. Otherwise tug really hard to get it out. You'll probably break off a few of the legs off of it. I did These are replaceable and cheap. Follow the same on the other side. And you should be able to remove the whole piece. Hopefully that will work for you. If not let me know and I'll try and take snapshots for you.

EDIT----> I forgot, if you pull out the ashtray there's a screw under there that also holds down the center piece.

 

awesome, thanks - that should do fine.


hows that ebc working out for you

 

Hey, the EBC is working great. Holds boost with no spikes or leaks. Awesome little unit. But I just saw the Greddy Profec e01 unit. It has a data logger, adjustable boost by rpm, and all sorts of cool features. Makes me kinda want one. But I'll stick with what I have and just get the harness and some other things. Just for reference, I hit the track today with Zx6r (?) and although my times weren't the best. Mainly due to missing the 2nd shift on every run. My trap speed was considerably higher with just a little extra boost. My best trap was almost 3mph faster than bone stock. That was just under 21psi. I'm not going to the track anymore until I can figure out a way to fix the 1-2 shift. It's getting super annoying. I'm wondering if it has to do with the clutch at all, or if I just happened to get a slightly more notchy gearbox than other cars. It shifts perfect when driving normal. Just under heavy load and launching it has a hard time going into 2nd. My only complaint of the car so far.

 

Evilution,

You did a great job. Congrats!

 

here are diagrams of the consoles

ftp://68.116.91.83/jcarella/AC209992AB00USA.bmp

ftp://68.116.91.83/jcarella/AC211586AB00USA.bmp

oh and there are two clips on the rear section twords the front of it, pull up on both sides to remove it, if you want you can also release those then push the watersprayer switch out from the bottom...

on the front two side panles do not pull them, there is a phillips head slot on the driver side, simplely unskrew it, passenger side needs to be lifted up then there are two more clips connecting it to the other half jsut pull there and removed, or if you want you can completely pull on the passenger side panel but u may break a 2 dollar clip Very easy removal for a center console