Brake squeak sucks. I did my EVo and it squeaks like crazy. Due to this I took my wife's into a shop to get her's done and her's squeak even worse than mine. EVO squeak FTL. I used the orange stuff. I may attempt this again but this time use the grease instead of the orange stuff to see if this makes things better. Thanks for the write up. easy to do but squeak sucks.

 

Are the little metal plates very important? I missed that step just reassembled the car and bed the pads in. Everything seemed fine. Please dont tell me I have to pull the car apart again......

 

anyone? also the low pad indicator should be on the outside of the rotor?

 

anyone answer this? I read that the shims work on squealing issues. but what about the pad indicator? only bedded pads in no other driving yet. want to know if I need to disassemble and put pad indicator out and will this affect the pad/rotor since they have been bedded in already? the initial bed in grooves will change direction.

 

noob question do i leave the e brake on or off when changing pad?

 

I put in Axis pads about 2 months ago. They don't come with shims. rears squeaked like a *****. Pickup OEM shims last weekend and the squeaking ***** is gone. Yes. shims reduce squeal. Pad "wear" indicator is different. it is designed to squeal. that's the "indicator" part. If you don't have shims, be prepared to be disappointed (not guaranteeing it will squeal, but likely). Make it right, then re-bed in and be done. You're not going to hurt any "grooves".

 

Doesn't matter. When front is jacked, safer to have the e-brake on to keep car from moving. When removing the rear wheel, easier when e-brake is on. But with regards to changing pads, the e-brake has nothing to do with the process.

 

I know this is an old thread but couple question. I'm about to change the brakes on my bro's evo. Do you have to bleed the brakes every time brake pads are changed? Is it necessary? Or is the brake bleeding process just for when you break a seal, or are changing brake lines. THx guys! Seems like an easy process been wanting to do this for a while but not sure about those two ??

 

no you dont need to bleed your brakes unless you create a break in the hydraulic system. that being said, some people will bleed their brakes when installing new pads rather than push old brake fluid back into the system. its up to you though!

 

hey thx for the info man ill see what he wants to do.

 

Don't the rear caliper pistons have to be twisted/turned inward with a special tool... as opposed to being simply squeezed back in like the front? Can someone verify this before I make an attempt to work on the rear? Thanks guys...

 

it took me longer to jack her up and remove the wheels.
the pads were a piece of cake to change, all you need is a flat head nail countersink, hammer and large channel lock, also some heavy cardboard to protect the paint when your squeezing the caliper.

 

cool write up

 

Need some HELP PLEASE:

Just replaced my front pads and had rotors resurfaced. Problem is passenger side rotor still looks like it was resurfaced (some obvious wear but not much) and the drivers side does not. It has been approximately 2 weeks since the pads have been replaced.

My question is if the passenger side caliper is working properly. Are all four pistons working? I did a brake stopping test and the car pulls to the drivers side.

Should I remove new pads on passenger side and see if all pistons move (with pads removed and careful not to pop them out, if that's possible)??

Any help would be appreciated.

 

80 ft/lbs