Tools:
17mm 19mm Wrench
Hammer
small Nail
Tools to take off the wheel
Jack
Brake Pad Hi-Temp Grease A MUST (The Grease will reduce noise and viberation!)

Time: 30mins-1 hour

YOU DO NOT NEED TO BLEED YOUR BRAKES!!!!



Step 1:
Wait for car to cool down!


Step 2:
Jack up the car. Jack point Diff. front and rear


Step 3:
Take off Wheels



Step 4:
On the calipers there are 2 pins holding down a "spring", and the "spring" is holding down the brake pads. Use the small nail put it to the Pin from outside and hit it w/ a hammer! Slow down becareful or else the spring will fly off. Then do the same to the other pin










Step 5:
Next for Rear Calipers use 17mm wrench, Front Calipers use 19mm Wrench. In the back of the Caliper there are 2 bolts remove those.






Step 6:
Pull the Caliper out, careful or else the brake pad will drop!!!


Step 7:
Swap out the Brake Pads, Remove Brake Dusts.


Step 8:
There will be a metal plate for each brake, make sure to look for the arrow on the metal. The driection of the arrow is pointing to the driection of the wheel (forward). Also you will need to apply Hi-Temp Grease! Apply grease to anywhere the metal will touch.




Step 9:
Use same steps to do other brakes.


Warning: When you frist drive the car, if you were cleaning the rotor or brake pad there might be a brake lag!

 

Thanks for the post. I need to change my pads soon.

 

NP remember to buy Hi-Temp Grease for Brake pads!!!! its very important!

 

This may sound like a dumb question, but why are you pulling the caliper off? Don't the pads back out through the rear of the caliper? Or was this done so you could more easily get the pads on and get the pistons retracted back into the caliper?

(I'm doing my brakes this weekend and this was one of those research things I never found adequate info)

Also, some pads require those shims, some do not.. Any idea if the Ferodo's require you to reuse those shims?

 

Jack
yes, once the retainers are out the pads can come out without taking off the caliper.
I used the shims from the stockers on my ferodo 3000's along with some antiseize(?sp)
without the goop you are a squeaker for sure.

 

i tried to take out the brake pads w/ out taking out the calipers, but i couldn't do it. I have heard people say they can take the pads out w/ out taking out the calipers.

Then again its 2 bolts and the caliper comes off, not that hard

 

500whp, nice post.

IIRC I could not get the shims in the first install, to tight. might have been my hurry. it would be nice to have a purpose built piston retractor so you are not tying to wedge the pistons back. maring parts is trouble. anyway the shims went in the next time I swaped the pads out.

 

After you take the pins out, the pads just pop right out. If they don't you need to spread the calipers a little.

 

Yeah I was thinking of making a tool specifically to retract the pistons back into the caliper so I don't have to "Fudge it"

Thanks, I knew I wasn't crazy, I've done brakes on brembo calipers before, just not on an Evo..

 

yes, after the pins the pads just falls out of there once u take out the calipers.

 

thanks very much....i have always done breaks and didn't know that the evo was even easier to do...nice...thanks...definitely an upgrade with fluid and lines in the future...

 

Well, I just installed my Project Mu pads I bought from 500whp.com and I love them. I would have to clean my rims pretty much everyday with the stock pads, these definitely have less brake dust.

The brakes didnt take long at all, it is very easy to take the pads out without removing the caliper. I found once you take the pins out, you can push on the pad itself to push the piston back (from the top where the spring is) once the pads slide out slide in your new pads, reinsert pins and spring and your done.

I did my first one by taking the caliper off and then on my next I tried without taking the caliper out, it only took me about 5 mins or maybe less to change the pads without taking the caliper off. Anyways just thought I'd share Oh and to 500whp for their prices and the nice write up.

 

A couple things,

1) you should use a drift punch (available at any hardware store) rather than a nail. A drift punch is blunt on the end so it's less likely to damage the pins.

2) Is there an easy way to push in the pistons? I've only changed pads on sliding calipers, where the pistons are on one side. WIth these fixed calipers, I have no idea how to get the pistons in.

 

If change the brake pads, you did not show how or what to use to compress the piston of the caliper. Good Inastructions though.

 

Hey all,

Just swapped my lines to Stoptech SS, bled the brakes with ATE Super Blue and switched to Ferrodo ds2500 in the front.

I went to do the rears, and have a dumb question. In the rear, the pins have a "point" on one side (facing outwards) and the inner end is flat. I would assume I push the pins out from the center of the car towards the outside? This is opposite of the fronts, right?

I was beat, so when I they didn't immediately come out I just decided to do the rear pads later. Can someone please confirm this info for me? You wouldn't tap on the pointed side of the pins, right? I just thought it was odd that it was opposite from front.

TIA,

FB