How To: Change your Brake Pad, or Remove Brake Dust
#76
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Need some HELP PLEASE:
Just replaced my front pads and had rotors resurfaced. Problem is passenger side rotor still looks like it was resurfaced (some obvious wear but not much) and the drivers side does not. It has been approximately 2 weeks since the pads have been replaced.
My question is if the passenger side caliper is working properly. Are all four pistons working? I did a brake stopping test and the car pulls to the drivers side.
Should I remove new pads on passenger side and see if all pistons move (with pads removed and careful not to pop them out, if that's possible)??
Any help would be appreciated.
Just replaced my front pads and had rotors resurfaced. Problem is passenger side rotor still looks like it was resurfaced (some obvious wear but not much) and the drivers side does not. It has been approximately 2 weeks since the pads have been replaced.
My question is if the passenger side caliper is working properly. Are all four pistons working? I did a brake stopping test and the car pulls to the drivers side.
Should I remove new pads on passenger side and see if all pistons move (with pads removed and careful not to pop them out, if that's possible)??
Any help would be appreciated.
with caliper in hand with pads loaded, gently apply brakes and see their movement
#78
#80
Evolving Member
another noob question
ok, this may sound like an idiotic question, but I am still not sure where you put the high temperature brake grease. It seems to me that you get squeak from metal rubbing on something, and the only thing that rubs when you brake is the rotor, which rubs on the pad. So do you put the grease on the pad/rotor? This also sounds non-intuitive to me, since grease will reduce the friction between the pad and the rotor, therefore reducing your stopping power. Is brake grease something that just burns off, so it doesn't permanently reduce your ability to stop?
#81
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brake grease is just a high temp grease and for your own safety, please don't use any lubrication between your pad and rotor
The backing plates and frame of disc pad should be greased as well as where the pad contacts the caliper, as was said, all points where pad tounches something except the rotor
The backing plates and frame of disc pad should be greased as well as where the pad contacts the caliper, as was said, all points where pad tounches something except the rotor
#82
Evolving Member
brake grease is just a high temp grease and for your own safety, please don't use any lubrication between your pad and rotor
The backing plates and frame of disc pad should be greased as well as where the pad contacts the caliper, as was said, all points where pad tounches something except the rotor
The backing plates and frame of disc pad should be greased as well as where the pad contacts the caliper, as was said, all points where pad tounches something except the rotor
I have a second question. I found several brake piston spreaders on ebay, which cost between $30 and $50. Has anyone used one of these on the EVO? I would like to buy one but want to make sure it works for EVO. There is a spreader made by Giro Disc on this website, but it costs $225, way more than I want to pay. I know everyone says you can just use 2 screwdrivers, or a C clamp, but $30 is worth the convenience for me, especially if it greatly reduces the chances of scraping the finish on the calipers.
#83
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Hey no probs but think about it, anywhere metal contacts metal, some noise would be created
Always check the outer edge of your rotor to see if you have a lip. If you do which is more than likely you need to machine that lip/edge off otherwise when the pad contacts the rotor some off the metal from the pad will hit this lip/edge and stay inside the contact area and not escape to the outside thus it will make a very loud wailing noise. Off course a cheaper pad with less metal would not make this noise which is probably what you replaced yours with.
Spreaders work good and if you are worried about the caliper finish just buffer with some rags inbetween the spreader and the caliper.
Always check the outer edge of your rotor to see if you have a lip. If you do which is more than likely you need to machine that lip/edge off otherwise when the pad contacts the rotor some off the metal from the pad will hit this lip/edge and stay inside the contact area and not escape to the outside thus it will make a very loud wailing noise. Off course a cheaper pad with less metal would not make this noise which is probably what you replaced yours with.
Spreaders work good and if you are worried about the caliper finish just buffer with some rags inbetween the spreader and the caliper.
#85
How hard are the caliper pins supposed to be to get out? I had a thin Phillips head and a rubber mallet and I was wailing on the POS and they would not budge. Is there a trick here or what?
Best, Dan
Best, Dan
#86
EvoM Community Team
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Grease or anti squeal? You can grease the edges of the backing plates lightly if you feel inclined. If you track your car anti squeal is not recommended. Street car, you can put a few drops between the shim and the back side of the pad.
#88
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Never changed brakes before thank god for this write up. found another way with compressing the pistons so you dont have to take the calipers off which was faster but mine needed a solid cleaning so just took them all the way off. good write up
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