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Evo How Tos / InstallationsPost or link to your detailed how to / installation articles in here. If you have any questions regarding the how tos, feel free to post them in the Request sub-forum.
Yeah I need both in the rear, I'm still running the stock ones, and I got whitelines in the front. But I can't really find anyone that sells the whiteline rears and these look just as good quality at a cheaper price.
So since you are still here just to confirm, for the rear endlinks I just need the 4" threaded pieces and 2 lh thread male ends (2458k142) and 2 rh thread male ends (2458k141) and the various bolts and washers correct?
Yep. For reach rear you need one LH rod end, one RH rod end, one threaded rod, and the bolts/washers.
Are any of you guys using these with cusco plates? Im noticing that Im going to have to run some fairly thick bushing sleeves to space the endlink from the bar so that I am able to reach the other holes. I don't have any experience with any other endlinks for the evo, so Im not really sure what the expect for articulation.
How long is too long for the sleeve? Can I get away with 1/2" or 3/4"?
The OEM rear end link length seems to be around 6" and these measure around 6-1/2" minimum length. Does anyone that have used these in the past know if the extra 1/2" length going to cause clearance issues in the rear? The rod end thread length is 1-1/4" and the connecting rod thread length is 1". I ordered Donour's parts list and assembled the full set of end links, but my car is not currently together enough to check the clearances.
Does anyone that have used these in the past know if the extra 1/2" length going to cause clearance issues in the rear?
*stretch* Waking up for my semi-annual posting.
I've never seen clearance issues on the CT9A chassis. The assumption here is that you're lowering the car, so you'd want to extend them some to keep the bar angle the same as stock (or closer to it anyway). If you're _raising_ the car above stock ride height, you might want to select a different aluminum rod length.
I've never seen clearance issues on the CT9A chassis. The assumption here is that you're lowering the car, so you'd want to extend them some to keep the bar angle the same as stock (or closer to it anyway). If you're _raising_ the car above stock ride height, you might want to select a different aluminum rod length.
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Thanks for the replay Donour! It's great to see you're still on here all these years! My setup is the stock Bilstein shocks and Gt Worx/Racecomp Engineering lowering springs. Only 0.59" drop in the rear and 0.79" in the front. I don't think I will have any issues with the slight increase in end link length. I will update you guys when I get the end links installed.
Bump for anyone coming here looking to do this to their X: I've been working on these for the rear on my Evo 10. Right off the bat, I went with the 3" connecting rods, instead of the 4". With the ball joint rod ends screwed all the way in, they match the oem length endlinks, thus if you want to make them shorter, 2.75" connecting rod, might be better. Also, I had to order 2.5" screw/bolts and a 0.5" spacer to push them out from the mounting bracket and sway bar. Also, I used the retaining washers on each side of the race ball joint to allow more articulation. Everything else is the same. Will edit with a picture later.
Bump for anyone coming here looking to do this to their X: I've been working on these for the rear on my Evo 10. Right off the bat, I went with the 3" connecting rods, instead of the 4". With the ball joint rod ends screwed all the way in, they match the oem length endlinks, thus if you want to make them shorter, 2.75" connecting rod, might be better. Also, I had to order 2.5" screw/bolts and a 0.5" spacer to push them out from the mounting bracket and sway bar. Also, I used the retaining washers on each side of the race ball joint to allow more articulation. Everything else is the same. Will edit with a picture later.
