Everything went back in the exact same order it came out. I was extremely careful about this.I just took it for a test drive and although I didn't get the rear to kick out in the street I did notice that my understeer is virtually eliminated. I also just installed RS3's so that is a big factor too. Tomorrow's autox will tell the full story.

 

I like to be ****, plus it only takes about 10 seconds to check runout and backlash... If you needed new shims then it would take a little more time, but you get the point

Depending on how far out of tolerance your backlash is, it could take awhile to trash your pinion gear, if you happened to be out of tolerance, of course.

 

Well I am back from my autox event. It was a very long day but I am proud to announce that I brought home a second place trophy. This was an identical setup as my last event on a local road course and I have shaved 9 seconds off of my last best time. It is hard to tell what was the bigger upgrade as mentioned before I installed RS3's at the same time. Turn in felt much sharper and understeer felt almost completely eliminated. Unfortunately the car didn't want to rotate as easily as I thought it would. one thing I did notice is that my launches seemed to grip harder then what I am used to.

 

It take ten seconds if you have the tools on and the knowhow. If the rear goes then TRE gets my diff. This was a good DIY mod but it wasn't night and day like the 12 plate video I have seen.

 

I ended up with about the same result after restacking the plates in the correct order. It MIGHT understeer less, but it sure as heck won't kick the rear end out.

 

Might be because of how your car is setup, what tires you're using, etc. all come into play. I'm on Swift sport springs on the stock struts and RE960 all seasons. Not the best combo to race with but good to go sideways and control it.

 

I'm on Dunlop Star Specs with aftermarket struts/springs/sways/etc. I'm sure all of that plays into it but when I first took the car out after doing the mod I could tell almost no difference from the same setup with the unmodded diff. However, I took it out later and did a bunch more figure 8's and it seemed like the more I played with it, the better it got. Maybe the plates/discs have to wear into each other, I don't really know. It still won't get the rear end way out, but it's definitely a lot closer to neutral when you get on the throttle with maybe a slight hint of oversteer.

Definitely worth the time if you're running STU or a similar class where you can't go to a 12 plate. But, if you can go to a 12 plate conversion like the Weir DIY kit or TRE/Shep, I'd do it. A friend of mine has an Evo VIII with a Shep 12 plate and it's really impressive. Lots of controllable throttle oversteer.

Thanks again for the writeup, it was helpful when rebuilding!

 

I am running RS3's, coil overs with 7k/9k rates, and modded sway bars. As stated before the car felt more neutral but nothing like a rwd car.

 

I know I'm sort of late to the party, but to critique... the writeup is excellent. It would be nice if the pics had some circles or arrows or something that pointed at what you were describing in the text writeup...

Just my point zero two.

 

Good idea. I'll try and get it done whenever I have some free time.

 

Nice man

 

Pretty good write up Will give this a try some day!

 

This write up was great. The whole process went pretty smoothly. One warning to anyone out there planning to complete this, be extra careful when removing the four screws that hold differential case A and B together. They strip pretty easily. Haven't heard of anyone having issues but lets just say I'm lucky home depot had m5x0.8 flat topped screws. I'd recommend using an impact driver to remove those screws without stripping them.

 

Definitely should be a sticky.. well written, as I have done this as well...

 

excellent thread