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Evo How Tos / InstallationsPost or link to your detailed how to / installation articles in here. If you have any questions regarding the how tos, feel free to post them in the Request sub-forum.
Strictly my opinion: I think the retune is needed at the high end where your injectors are at its highest duty cycles. Although the pump will flow more once the relay switches to 14V, your low duty cycles won't be much richer than tune. For my car, I was hitting 104 IDC at about 6000-7000 RPM. With my overkill rewire, that's when my AFR dropped another 0.5 (from 10.7 to 10.2). You need to look at your tune and see what AFR it was tuned for.
thanks for the info. I better hold off on grounding hat wire till I'm able to retune.
Do you have a dyno chart with boost and AFR on it? And what are your mods?
i don't have any charts. I was street tuned by a local guy. I have full bolt ons, e85, hks exhaust camshaft, speed density, ebc, my wide band reads 10.0 @ 38-4400 rams when @ wot and then goes 11.1-11.3 at 4700-7k rpms. I'm running a 35r w external dump on 26 psi.
i don't have any charts. I was street tuned by a local guy. I have full bolt ons, e85, hks exhaust camshaft, speed density, ebc, my wide band reads 10.0 @ 38-4400 rams when @ wot and then goes 11.1-11.3 at 4700-7k rpms. I'm running a 35r w external dump on 26 psi.
You're really rich at 10.0 AFR. And why so rich at 3800-4400 RPMs? Isn't your turbo laggy and doesn't wake up until around 4500 RPM? I would have thought the tune would run leaner to help with spool (~12.5 AFR). If you have 1200-1400cc injectors, you could see 10.6 between 6000-7000 RPMs. You should get a retune if you rewire your fuel pump.
i don't have any charts. I was street tuned by a local guy. I have full bolt ons, e85, hks exhaust camshaft, speed density, ebc, my wide band reads 10.0 @ 38-4400 rams when @ wot and then goes 11.1-11.3 at 4700-7k rpms. I'm running a 35r w external dump on 26 psi.
Does your WB read lower than 10? I really hope so, otherwise you could be washing cylinders out. That is a terrible tune and needs to be re-done. it's too rich everywhere.
Does your WB read lower than 10? I really hope so, otherwise you could be washing cylinders out. That is a terrible tun and needs to be done. it's too rich everywhere.
Good point!!
I just looked up my AEM UEGO and it reads 10.0-20.0 on gas. But 6.6-13.2 on E85 (how is this possible?). My gauge reads the same on gas as it does on E85. Maybe these values are in reference to the interchangeable face labels?
I'm glad I've never seen 10.0 on my gauge. With rewire, I've hit 10.1.
can a mod or OP re upload the pictures? All pictures are broken
seems this went from a decent writeup to a tuning issues thread, man coming from DSMtuners... you guys over here sure derail informative threads 🤣
can a mod or OP re upload the pictures? All pictures are broken
seems this went from a decent writeup to a tuning issues thread, man coming from DSMtuners... you guys over here sure derail informative threads 🤣
can a mod or OP re upload the pictures? All pictures are broken
seems this went from a decent writeup to a tuning issues thread, man coming from DSMtuners... you guys over here sure derail informative threads 🤣
Once a thread has been discussed to it's end, conversation usually continues from there
Several people have asked for the original pictures from wizzo 8's post. I copied much of his post and think that it goes like this:
The kit I'm installing is from STM. Found here http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...rewire_kit.htm The first thing you have to do is remove the rear seat bottom cushion. Pull on the 2 locks in the front of the cushion to release it. Then remove the black square cover on the drivers side. 4 phillips screws. You will then have to remove the fuel pump connector by squeezing it and pulling it off. Next cut the covering away from the wires. See picture
If you look at the wiring diagram it shows the thicker black and white wires are for the fuel pump
Cut these wires about 11/2" away from connector.
The relay connector comes with 5 wires
To be safe I removed the center red wire since it wont be used. It will come out by giving it a good yank on the red wire.
Take the ground wire the kit came with and put the gold terminal onto the end after stripping the wire. Slide the rubber part back onto the wire away from the end. I used some pliers to crimp the terminal onto the wire. You can either keep it this way or solder it. I highly recommend soldering all the connections.
Then after it cools off slid the rubber insulator back to cover the solder connection
Do the same thing to the power wire. The shorter end from the fuse which will connect to the battery.
Next you will have to find a good ground. I used the bolt which holds down the seat backrest. You will have to sand the paint away to get a good connection.
Attach your ground wire
Next you will have to connect the relay to the vehicle wiring harness and to the fuel pump itself. Total of 4 wires.
Connect the supplied red power wire from the battery to the blue wire of the relay.
The yellow wire of the relay goes to the white wire of the fuel pump connector you cut earlier.
The black wire of the relay goes to the white wire in the vehicle wiring harness that was cut earlier.
The white wire of the relay goes to the black wire in the vehicle wiring harness.
Next you will connect the supplied ground wire to the black wire you cut at the fuel pump connector.
Here is a picture of all the wires connected
Solder all connections and tape them all. Tape the edge of the opening to prevent the wires from shorting out on the body as seen in picture. Tuck the wires in neatly and plug in your fuel pump.
All these wires need to come into the car along with the relay. To make sure the wires are not being smashed you will have to bend the cover plate to allow the wires to come through.
Tape the relay down as shown in the picture.
If you want put some of the corrugated tubing that came with the kit over the smaller wires
You will have to run your power wire up to your battery. Pull the fuse before attaching the power wire to the battery. Reinstall your seat and put your fuse in. Car should start right up.
I ran mine on the drivers side behind the fender, into the car, and then under the carpet by the door sills. Mine is still working great without any problems.
alright, did some process of elimination off your pictures and colors. Obviously, with out this specific kit, using these colors, just using colors means nothing in my case. I need relay connector numbers.
Anyway, I'm deducing that your "black wire of the relay goes to the white wire in the vehicle wiring harness that was cut earlier" statement is telling me the white factory wire is the 12v switched signal. Making your black relay harness wire going to "86" on the relay.
going to run with that for now...
EDIT:
For anyone who cares, the white wire from the OEM harness is the one you need to have a switched ignition source for a pump.
Sounds like this white wire is the original power wire for the fuel pump. If that is correct, because of the oe dual voltage system, this would only see 8v during startup and idle. Will this be a problem as the relay is rated for a 12v switch power? Will it be enough to turn on that relay and stay turned on or will it have intermittent pump power issues?
Sounds like this white wire is the original power wire for the fuel pump. If that is correct, because of the oe dual voltage system, this would only see 8v during startup and idle. Will this be a problem as the relay is rated for a 12v switch power? Will it be enough to turn on that relay and stay turned on or will it have intermittent pump power issues?
Yes it's enough voltage to power the relay. I have never had any issues.
I ran mine on the drivers side behind the fender, into the car, and then under the carpet by the door sills. Mine is still working great without any problems.
where does the other end of the blue wire that connects to the battery go to?
Mar 23, 2018, 08:26 AM
