Any pointers when installing cams, headstuds, and valve springs
Any pointers when installing cams, headstuds, and valve springs
Hi everyone I've done a lot of reading and watched a bunch of videos of how to install the cams, head studs and valve springs. I was wondering if anyone else has some pointers or anymore knowledge they would like to share when installing these parts. My dad also had a question about installing the headstuds, when they are being installed one by one, will there be any way for fluids to travel through the gasket? And how much psi do we have to compress, so the valve will stay up and not fall into the chamber when doing the valve springs? Thanks in adavance
Use this tool makes it very easy. about to do the same thing myself! Good luck and make sure you keep timing aligned shouldnt be to bad. Remember to bleed those lifters and go through the warm up process to get rid of the ticking.
http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/t...ompressor.html
youtube it and see videos!
http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/t...ompressor.html
youtube it and see videos!
^
buy the tool recommended above and it is the same one I recently used to swap my springs on the car. Then buy this kit from Jay Racing for $50.
Jay Racing Timing Tools
Turn crank to align 1 & 4 piston at TDC. Insert the threaded rod to remove the belt tension. Secure the cam gears to the belt with Zip Ties. Remove the cams. One by one replace the springs on the #1 & 4 cylinder without pressurizing the cylinders. When you use the tool to compress the spring the valve opens a small amount before hitting the piston and then releases the keepers. The valve cannot drop enough to impede the spring swap.
When you have replaced the springs in the #1 & 4 cylinder install the cams without rocker arms and only put 2 cam caps on each cam. Reinstall the cam gears with bolts just snug and remove zip ties. remove the threaded tensioner rod. Rotate crank 180 deg to bring #2 & 3 pistons to TDC.
Reinstall threaded tensioner, secure cam gears to belt with zip ties and remove cams. repeat process for removing springs on #2 & 3 cylinder without pressurizing the cylinders. The process is very easy, but expect to spend 2 hours replacing all of the springs. the eurotool is a safe and easy method to swap springs.
Good Luck.
buy the tool recommended above and it is the same one I recently used to swap my springs on the car. Then buy this kit from Jay Racing for $50.
Jay Racing Timing Tools
Turn crank to align 1 & 4 piston at TDC. Insert the threaded rod to remove the belt tension. Secure the cam gears to the belt with Zip Ties. Remove the cams. One by one replace the springs on the #1 & 4 cylinder without pressurizing the cylinders. When you use the tool to compress the spring the valve opens a small amount before hitting the piston and then releases the keepers. The valve cannot drop enough to impede the spring swap.
When you have replaced the springs in the #1 & 4 cylinder install the cams without rocker arms and only put 2 cam caps on each cam. Reinstall the cam gears with bolts just snug and remove zip ties. remove the threaded tensioner rod. Rotate crank 180 deg to bring #2 & 3 pistons to TDC.
Reinstall threaded tensioner, secure cam gears to belt with zip ties and remove cams. repeat process for removing springs on #2 & 3 cylinder without pressurizing the cylinders. The process is very easy, but expect to spend 2 hours replacing all of the springs. the eurotool is a safe and easy method to swap springs.
Good Luck.
Make sure the keepers are in the correct spot before releasing the spring. I was almost done and 3rd to last one a keeper popped out and went down the oil drain hole of the head
. Needless to say I had to remove the oil pan to retrieve it. Also be sure the engine is cold before you do the 1x1 head bolt process. Open the radiator cap to release any pressure in the cooling system. When you release the bearing caps for the cams loosen all the bolts at about a half a turn at a time until all the spring pressure is off of the cam. If you don't there is a possibility of the cam breaking or cracking. When tightening down the valve cover dont overtighten it. It will crack. Thats all the advice I have.
. Needless to say I had to remove the oil pan to retrieve it. Also be sure the engine is cold before you do the 1x1 head bolt process. Open the radiator cap to release any pressure in the cooling system. When you release the bearing caps for the cams loosen all the bolts at about a half a turn at a time until all the spring pressure is off of the cam. If you don't there is a possibility of the cam breaking or cracking. When tightening down the valve cover dont overtighten it. It will crack. Thats all the advice I have.
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 342
Likes: 8
From: Detroit metro area Michigan/Washington DC metro area
i used this valve spring compressor from harbor freight for 60$ holds the valves in place my buddy was able to do all the valve springs in about 20min
it made things so much easier but the 1 requirement was the head must be off the car
it made things so much easier but the 1 requirement was the head must be off the car
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