Orbital 2 DIN Dash Conversion Kit Review
Orbital 2 DIN Dash Conversion Kit Review
First of all, I’d like to thank and congratulate Rich for making his dream a reality. He’s come quite a ways from the guy that I met in a NJ gas station parking lot holding an ugly piece of plastic not so long ago. He’s an honest and respectable business owner who is committed to excellence in everything he does. I wish we had more business owners out there like Rich. With that said, let’s take a closer look at the Orbital 2 DIN conversion kit.
My first impression is that this is a very well-made and quality piece. There’s an acute attention to detail that’s evident by the subtle fitment contours, screw holes, and overall curvature of the bezels. They’re certainly along the same design lines as the other factory Mitsubishi interior pieces. It’s a very nice looking/feeling kit. It doesn’t feel cheap or sloppy in any way.
Now, given that this is the first production run (and Rich’s first ever product launch), there are bound to be a few things that could be improved upon for the “version 2” kit, if one were to be developed. My critiques are as follows:
Lower Bezel
1.) In addition to bending the two stock vertical brackets inward, there are tabs (one on each bracket) which point downward once the brackets are made to point at one another. These tabs should also be bent upward until they’re horizontal like the rest of the bracket. This is to avoid contact with the HVAC unit.
2.) The HVAC labels (stickers) didn’t fit flush into the lower bezel without bulging out in areas. This, I believe, is due to the black grain finish taking away a slight amount of mating surface from the label. I assume the prototype unit had no finish and that the labels laid down perfectly in place. I fixed this by cutting (with scissors) off the outer edge of the two larger labels. Also, the stock sticker adhesive, I feel, is insufficient for mounting onto the Orbital bezel. I used a thin layer of black silicone to secure mine…once they fit properly.
3.) When I mounted the HVAC unit into the bezel and installed the stock screws, my button controls were sticking when I pressed them. Again, I believe this is due to the black grain finish adding just a hair of thickness to the inner button opening. I fixed this by using a Dremel tool to shave off the finish on the inner opening. This isn’t a big deal, but not something a buyer of an OE-standard part should have to do.
4.) In discovering the button-dragging issue, I had installed the lower bezel using the factory mounting clips and then had to remove it to fix the problem. In so doing, the clips remained in the dash and did not come off with the bezel. This isn’t a big deal, but my factory cubby always took the clips with it. Perhaps the mounting tabs could be made just a hair thicker.
Upper Bezel
1.) I don’t mind cutting construction paper for my Arts & Crafts class projects, however, I don’t care to do so when installing an expensive dash conversion kit. I would have liked for a template to have been provided, perhaps even one which is laminated for durability. To cut this template out properly, an exacto knife should be used. However, most people will probably just use scissors which is, well, not as exacto.
2.) The instructions say to drill your new holes using the template before cutting off the stock plastic tabs. I found that it’s much easier to align the template and drill your new mounting holes with those plastic tabs removed. Perhaps this could be considered in the next revision of the manual.
3.) Another addition to the manual could be to tap into your newly-drilled holes with the mounting screws before you actually install the radio unit. The first time you screw in the screws, it will be very tight and you may not want to risk slipping and damaging your new 2 DIN headunit.
My first impression is that this is a very well-made and quality piece. There’s an acute attention to detail that’s evident by the subtle fitment contours, screw holes, and overall curvature of the bezels. They’re certainly along the same design lines as the other factory Mitsubishi interior pieces. It’s a very nice looking/feeling kit. It doesn’t feel cheap or sloppy in any way.
Now, given that this is the first production run (and Rich’s first ever product launch), there are bound to be a few things that could be improved upon for the “version 2” kit, if one were to be developed. My critiques are as follows:
Lower Bezel
1.) In addition to bending the two stock vertical brackets inward, there are tabs (one on each bracket) which point downward once the brackets are made to point at one another. These tabs should also be bent upward until they’re horizontal like the rest of the bracket. This is to avoid contact with the HVAC unit.
2.) The HVAC labels (stickers) didn’t fit flush into the lower bezel without bulging out in areas. This, I believe, is due to the black grain finish taking away a slight amount of mating surface from the label. I assume the prototype unit had no finish and that the labels laid down perfectly in place. I fixed this by cutting (with scissors) off the outer edge of the two larger labels. Also, the stock sticker adhesive, I feel, is insufficient for mounting onto the Orbital bezel. I used a thin layer of black silicone to secure mine…once they fit properly.
3.) When I mounted the HVAC unit into the bezel and installed the stock screws, my button controls were sticking when I pressed them. Again, I believe this is due to the black grain finish adding just a hair of thickness to the inner button opening. I fixed this by using a Dremel tool to shave off the finish on the inner opening. This isn’t a big deal, but not something a buyer of an OE-standard part should have to do.
4.) In discovering the button-dragging issue, I had installed the lower bezel using the factory mounting clips and then had to remove it to fix the problem. In so doing, the clips remained in the dash and did not come off with the bezel. This isn’t a big deal, but my factory cubby always took the clips with it. Perhaps the mounting tabs could be made just a hair thicker.
Upper Bezel
1.) I don’t mind cutting construction paper for my Arts & Crafts class projects, however, I don’t care to do so when installing an expensive dash conversion kit. I would have liked for a template to have been provided, perhaps even one which is laminated for durability. To cut this template out properly, an exacto knife should be used. However, most people will probably just use scissors which is, well, not as exacto.
2.) The instructions say to drill your new holes using the template before cutting off the stock plastic tabs. I found that it’s much easier to align the template and drill your new mounting holes with those plastic tabs removed. Perhaps this could be considered in the next revision of the manual.
3.) Another addition to the manual could be to tap into your newly-drilled holes with the mounting screws before you actually install the radio unit. The first time you screw in the screws, it will be very tight and you may not want to risk slipping and damaging your new 2 DIN headunit.
Last edited by Pd1; Aug 8, 2006 at 10:24 AM.
very nice set up. I was wondering where you can order that kit from and ~how much it runs? I've tried looking for it, but have not seemed to find out where it can be done (besines fiberglassing your own) Is there a website for this company?
It's available here> https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=194844
Originally Posted by wilson1
It's available here> https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=194844
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a quick overview of your comments
Here are some answers PD1:
Lower Bezel
1.) In addition to bending the two stock vertical brackets inward, there are tabs (one on each bracket) which point downward once the brackets are made to point at one another. These tabs should also be bent upward until they’re horizontal like the rest of the bracket. This is to avoid contact with the HVAC unit.
Actually they should be cut out. This requires removing the whole dash bracketry for the radio and lower dash support. Once this is done then you need to notch out the side mounting backets and then re-route the original mechanical cables for the HVAC. You have to remember that this is not an easy fix. The JDM and Euro evos have an electronic climate control that would not require this modification.. Mitsubishi never intended for you to relocate the original mechanical HVAC>
2.) The HVAC labels (stickers) didn’t fit flush into the lower bezel without bulging out in areas. This, I believe, is due to the black grain finish taking away a slight amount of mating surface from the label. I assume the prototype unit had no finish and that the labels laid down perfectly in place. I fixed this by cutting (with scissors) off the outer edge of the two larger labels. Also, the stock sticker adhesive, I feel, is insufficient for mounting onto the Orbital bezel. I used a thin layer of black silicone to secure mine…once they fit properly.
There is a single guide hole on the top of both the output level and output directional for the HVAC housing. The sticker has a guide pin that needs to slide into that slot. If it doesn't align properly, your sticker will fit unevenly. All of the painted parts are checked for this a couple times durring the process of prep and paint. I think Rich will be looking at the grained kits more closely in the future.
3.) When I mounted the HVAC unit into the bezel and installed the stock screws, my button controls were sticking when I pressed them. Again, I believe this is due to the black grain finish adding just a hair of thickness to the inner button opening. I fixed this by using a Dremel tool to shave off the finish on the inner opening. This isn’t a big deal, but not something a buyer of an OE-standard part should have to do.
I have not had this problem on any of the kits. It is possible to get the HVAC controls at a slight angle durring mounting to the HVAC bezel and this will cause the buttons to stick. It is possible that yours is an anomaly. These are plastic parts and they are made one at a time out of the same tool. A slight deviation in cool down time could affect this. This is the first complaint we have had regarding this so I have recommend to Rich that he replace that HVAC bezel for you.
4.) In discovering the button-dragging issue, I had installed the lower bezel using the factory mounting clips and then had to remove it to fix the problem. In so doing, the clips remained in the dash and did not come off with the bezel. This isn’t a big deal, but my factory cubby always took the clips with it. Perhaps the mounting tabs could be made just a hair thicker.
They are exactly the factory size. Your clips might not be clipped in completely. i have not had this problem on the HVAC bezel, but I have seen this problem on my upper radio bezel. Stock and Orbital...
Upper Bezel
1.) I don’t mind cutting construction paper for my Arts & Crafts class projects, however, I don’t care to do so when installing an expensive dash conversion kit. I would have liked for a template to have been provided, perhaps even one which is laminated for durability. To cut this template out properly, an exacto knife should be used. However, most people will probably just use scissors which is, well, not as exacto.
There is no easy way around this one. We decided that it was better to slightly relocate the radio to eliminate glare issues. The template was the easiest way to achieve this was the simple tmplate you have. Rich wanted to make it out of stainless steel but believe me when I tell you tha would not have liked the price increase this would entail. You have to remember that this kit is designed and manufactured by Evo owners for Evo owners. I know alot of you lost patience with Rich over the lengthly R&D time that the top bezel required but we would not have made it any other way.
2.) The instructions say to drill your new holes using the template before cutting off the stock plastic tabs. I found that it’s much easier to align the template and drill your new mounting holes with those plastic tabs removed. Perhaps this could be considered in the next revision of the manual.
You can do it either way, but the guide tabs make it harder for you to make a mistake on the drilling.
3.) Another addition to the manual could be to tap into your newly-drilled holes with the mounting screws before you actually install the radio unit. The first time you screw in the screws, it will be very tight and you may not want to risk slipping and damaging your new 2 DIN headunit.
This follows the old addage of measure twice cut once! This kit is a precision device and even though it is intendid for a do it yourself installer, should be handled by a professional. I installed the first production kit on cmo-06 white evo and I am sure if he will chime in, he willl tell you that it took my lead installer and my self three hours to properly complete his install the right way and the wiring for his pioneer was already done.
We do thank you for your comments. This is how problems get resolved. I hope my answers to you criticisms are sufficient for you. And I hope you have good luck with the your new lower HVAC bezel when Rich ships it to you.
J
Lower Bezel
1.) In addition to bending the two stock vertical brackets inward, there are tabs (one on each bracket) which point downward once the brackets are made to point at one another. These tabs should also be bent upward until they’re horizontal like the rest of the bracket. This is to avoid contact with the HVAC unit.
Actually they should be cut out. This requires removing the whole dash bracketry for the radio and lower dash support. Once this is done then you need to notch out the side mounting backets and then re-route the original mechanical cables for the HVAC. You have to remember that this is not an easy fix. The JDM and Euro evos have an electronic climate control that would not require this modification.. Mitsubishi never intended for you to relocate the original mechanical HVAC>
2.) The HVAC labels (stickers) didn’t fit flush into the lower bezel without bulging out in areas. This, I believe, is due to the black grain finish taking away a slight amount of mating surface from the label. I assume the prototype unit had no finish and that the labels laid down perfectly in place. I fixed this by cutting (with scissors) off the outer edge of the two larger labels. Also, the stock sticker adhesive, I feel, is insufficient for mounting onto the Orbital bezel. I used a thin layer of black silicone to secure mine…once they fit properly.
There is a single guide hole on the top of both the output level and output directional for the HVAC housing. The sticker has a guide pin that needs to slide into that slot. If it doesn't align properly, your sticker will fit unevenly. All of the painted parts are checked for this a couple times durring the process of prep and paint. I think Rich will be looking at the grained kits more closely in the future.
3.) When I mounted the HVAC unit into the bezel and installed the stock screws, my button controls were sticking when I pressed them. Again, I believe this is due to the black grain finish adding just a hair of thickness to the inner button opening. I fixed this by using a Dremel tool to shave off the finish on the inner opening. This isn’t a big deal, but not something a buyer of an OE-standard part should have to do.
I have not had this problem on any of the kits. It is possible to get the HVAC controls at a slight angle durring mounting to the HVAC bezel and this will cause the buttons to stick. It is possible that yours is an anomaly. These are plastic parts and they are made one at a time out of the same tool. A slight deviation in cool down time could affect this. This is the first complaint we have had regarding this so I have recommend to Rich that he replace that HVAC bezel for you.
4.) In discovering the button-dragging issue, I had installed the lower bezel using the factory mounting clips and then had to remove it to fix the problem. In so doing, the clips remained in the dash and did not come off with the bezel. This isn’t a big deal, but my factory cubby always took the clips with it. Perhaps the mounting tabs could be made just a hair thicker.
They are exactly the factory size. Your clips might not be clipped in completely. i have not had this problem on the HVAC bezel, but I have seen this problem on my upper radio bezel. Stock and Orbital...
Upper Bezel
1.) I don’t mind cutting construction paper for my Arts & Crafts class projects, however, I don’t care to do so when installing an expensive dash conversion kit. I would have liked for a template to have been provided, perhaps even one which is laminated for durability. To cut this template out properly, an exacto knife should be used. However, most people will probably just use scissors which is, well, not as exacto.
There is no easy way around this one. We decided that it was better to slightly relocate the radio to eliminate glare issues. The template was the easiest way to achieve this was the simple tmplate you have. Rich wanted to make it out of stainless steel but believe me when I tell you tha would not have liked the price increase this would entail. You have to remember that this kit is designed and manufactured by Evo owners for Evo owners. I know alot of you lost patience with Rich over the lengthly R&D time that the top bezel required but we would not have made it any other way.
2.) The instructions say to drill your new holes using the template before cutting off the stock plastic tabs. I found that it’s much easier to align the template and drill your new mounting holes with those plastic tabs removed. Perhaps this could be considered in the next revision of the manual.
You can do it either way, but the guide tabs make it harder for you to make a mistake on the drilling.
3.) Another addition to the manual could be to tap into your newly-drilled holes with the mounting screws before you actually install the radio unit. The first time you screw in the screws, it will be very tight and you may not want to risk slipping and damaging your new 2 DIN headunit.
This follows the old addage of measure twice cut once! This kit is a precision device and even though it is intendid for a do it yourself installer, should be handled by a professional. I installed the first production kit on cmo-06 white evo and I am sure if he will chime in, he willl tell you that it took my lead installer and my self three hours to properly complete his install the right way and the wiring for his pioneer was already done.
We do thank you for your comments. This is how problems get resolved. I hope my answers to you criticisms are sufficient for you. And I hope you have good luck with the your new lower HVAC bezel when Rich ships it to you.
J
Last edited by Jamey@ParisAudio; Aug 15, 2006 at 09:20 PM.
Ok well i tried installing my kit with no luck, I cannot get the lower HVAC part on the it just doesent fit, Rich please tell me how to do make the lower part fit. maybe someone could pull out the lower part after a clean install so that i can see the modafication needed to install mine? Also my center "AC" button drags as well. and the is a huge bow on the bottom of the lower part, is that how the part comes?
Originally Posted by ~EVILEVO~
Ok well i tried installing my kit with no luck, I cannot get the lower HVAC part on the it just doesent fit, Rich please tell me how to do make the lower part fit. maybe someone could pull out the lower part after a clean install so that i can see the modafication needed to install mine? Also my center "AC" button drags as well. and the is a huge bow on the bottom of the lower part, is that how the part comes?
Originally Posted by ~EVILEVO~
Ok well i tried installing my kit with no luck, I cannot get the lower HVAC part on the it just doesent fit, Rich please tell me how to do make the lower part fit. maybe someone could pull out the lower part after a clean install so that i can see the modafication needed to install mine? Also my center "AC" button drags as well. and the is a huge bow on the bottom of the lower part, is that how the part comes?
Ps. Your draging button is not doubt caused by your warped HVAC bezel. I am sure Rich will be replacing your defective unit in a timely manner.
Originally Posted by Jamey@ParisAudio
Here are some answers PD1:
Lower Bezel
2.) The HVAC labels (stickers) didn’t fit flush into the lower bezel without bulging out in areas. This, I believe, is due to the black grain finish taking away a slight amount of mating surface from the label. I assume the prototype unit had no finish and that the labels laid down perfectly in place. I fixed this by cutting (with scissors) off the outer edge of the two larger labels. Also, the stock sticker adhesive, I feel, is insufficient for mounting onto the Orbital bezel. I used a thin layer of black silicone to secure mine…once they fit properly.
There is a single guide hole on the top of both the output level and output directional for the HVAC housing. The sticker has a guide pin that needs to slide into that slot. If it doesn't align properly, your sticker will fit unevenly. All of the painted parts are checked for this a couple times durring the process of prep and paint. I think Rich will be looking at the grained kits more closely in the future.
Lower Bezel
2.) The HVAC labels (stickers) didn’t fit flush into the lower bezel without bulging out in areas. This, I believe, is due to the black grain finish taking away a slight amount of mating surface from the label. I assume the prototype unit had no finish and that the labels laid down perfectly in place. I fixed this by cutting (with scissors) off the outer edge of the two larger labels. Also, the stock sticker adhesive, I feel, is insufficient for mounting onto the Orbital bezel. I used a thin layer of black silicone to secure mine…once they fit properly.
There is a single guide hole on the top of both the output level and output directional for the HVAC housing. The sticker has a guide pin that needs to slide into that slot. If it doesn't align properly, your sticker will fit unevenly. All of the painted parts are checked for this a couple times durring the process of prep and paint. I think Rich will be looking at the grained kits more closely in the future.