Swirl Marks
Negative...this is an unfortunate side affacet of a lack of waxing...
I experienced this with my first car a 2000 Nissan Sentra...It had swirl marks after numorus washings...I bought into what the dealer told me...that was that waxing it early on would cause damage to the paint...turned out to be very wrong...
Soon after I got my Evo I had it waxed proffesionally and never saw any of the swirl marks I saw with the Sentra (but just before the waxing I got a few scratches)...so the key is to have a wax job done early and by a very good car wash or shop...
I experienced this with my first car a 2000 Nissan Sentra...It had swirl marks after numorus washings...I bought into what the dealer told me...that was that waxing it early on would cause damage to the paint...turned out to be very wrong...
Soon after I got my Evo I had it waxed proffesionally and never saw any of the swirl marks I saw with the Sentra (but just before the waxing I got a few scratches)...so the key is to have a wax job done early and by a very good car wash or shop...
I found the key is good products. I had a very bad problem with swirls. Then I found out it was my fault. First off, the paint on the EVO is the worst paint I've ever had on any of my cars. I had an 8 year old Saturn that had better paint than this...but enough about the paint. Here is what has worked for me.
1.) get yourself a good wash mit. I'll be specific, pick up the Viking one at Autozone.
2.) get yourself some microfiber rags at Autozone (or wherever)...you'll need at least 4. Use these for drying and buffing.
3.) pick up a good wax, polish, and cleaner. I went with Megwars 1,2,3 and gold class wax.
DO NOT USE a chamoi to dry this car! All it does is leave swirls.
1.) get yourself a good wash mit. I'll be specific, pick up the Viking one at Autozone.
2.) get yourself some microfiber rags at Autozone (or wherever)...you'll need at least 4. Use these for drying and buffing.
3.) pick up a good wax, polish, and cleaner. I went with Megwars 1,2,3 and gold class wax.
DO NOT USE a chamoi to dry this car! All it does is leave swirls.
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From: Between the Blue and the Sand
Washing and waxing in a circular motion will also add to the scratches and swirl effect. Apply wax in parallel strokes from front to back.
Going to drivethrough car washes, even only once, can give you swirl marks. Those places filter and reuse their water. The filters only filter down to a certain particulate size. Washing your car with gritty water is not good!
I'll have to differ from Wombats suggestions above slightly. I've had 3 cars now that I have sold after 40k miles each....none left my driveway with swirl marks on the paint. Here is what I do.
I use a REAL lambskin chamois. I wash that chamois after each use.
I use cellulose sponges to clean the car. I replace these sponges each month. I replace these sponges if they hit the ground. I keep one sponge for wheel and lower body cladding. I use the other for the upper body surfaces.
I clean out and refill my bucket halfway through the wash.
I use polish free wax when all I am doing is protecting the paint. I apply it in parallel strokes going from front to back. I only do 1 body panel at a time. I use water soaked (but wrung out) cotton covered application sponges. I use one for the top surfaces and another for the lower cladding and front fascia. I throw away these sponges after each use.
When I need to polish up a surface, I determine why it needs to be polished. If the paint is hazed due to oxidation (which it shouldn't be for a while on a new car) I use a polishing compound/wax. Again, I apply in parallel strokes, not in a circular motion. I do not press down on the surface as I apply the polish.
If the paint is only dulled due to surface contamination, I use a clay bar and detailing spray. I also use thise bar to remove stubborn bug splats. I throw the clay away if it hits the ground. I throw the clay away each spring time.
SC~
Going to drivethrough car washes, even only once, can give you swirl marks. Those places filter and reuse their water. The filters only filter down to a certain particulate size. Washing your car with gritty water is not good!
I'll have to differ from Wombats suggestions above slightly. I've had 3 cars now that I have sold after 40k miles each....none left my driveway with swirl marks on the paint. Here is what I do.
I use a REAL lambskin chamois. I wash that chamois after each use.
I use cellulose sponges to clean the car. I replace these sponges each month. I replace these sponges if they hit the ground. I keep one sponge for wheel and lower body cladding. I use the other for the upper body surfaces.
I clean out and refill my bucket halfway through the wash.
I use polish free wax when all I am doing is protecting the paint. I apply it in parallel strokes going from front to back. I only do 1 body panel at a time. I use water soaked (but wrung out) cotton covered application sponges. I use one for the top surfaces and another for the lower cladding and front fascia. I throw away these sponges after each use.
When I need to polish up a surface, I determine why it needs to be polished. If the paint is hazed due to oxidation (which it shouldn't be for a while on a new car) I use a polishing compound/wax. Again, I apply in parallel strokes, not in a circular motion. I do not press down on the surface as I apply the polish.
If the paint is only dulled due to surface contamination, I use a clay bar and detailing spray. I also use thise bar to remove stubborn bug splats. I throw the clay away if it hits the ground. I throw the clay away each spring time.
SC~
Detailers use glaze to get rid of swirl marks.
Something like Megs No. 7...followed by Megs No. 26 wax. If you use these two products your car will love you. There is a lot of 'better' stuff out there to get swirls out, including that 3M stuff and Zianos. Megs seems widely available however and works great.
Something like Megs No. 7...followed by Megs No. 26 wax. If you use these two products your car will love you. There is a lot of 'better' stuff out there to get swirls out, including that 3M stuff and Zianos. Megs seems widely available however and works great.
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From: Between the Blue and the Sand
I'll second what Karash said.
You can use the #26 ONLY if you need to protect the already smooth paint from the environment.
Don't use the number 7 unless you are trying to remove something from the surface of the paint...swirls/stains/oxidization.
You can use the #26 ONLY if you need to protect the already smooth paint from the environment.
Don't use the number 7 unless you are trying to remove something from the surface of the paint...swirls/stains/oxidization.
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Originally posted by Secret Chimp
Washing your car with gritty water is not good!
I throw the clay away if it hits the ground. I throw the clay away each spring time.
SC~
Washing your car with gritty water is not good!
I throw the clay away if it hits the ground. I throw the clay away each spring time.
SC~
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From: Between the Blue and the Sand
Nothing is wrong woth a chamois....if it is the real lambskin variety and not the microfiber sandpaper style.
But like every other thing that touches the paint on your car, you have to make sure you rinse it out after each use
SC~
But like every other thing that touches the paint on your car, you have to make sure you rinse it out after each use
SC~






