Hah. Let me get my car running properly first :-P

 

Thanks to my wiring guru friend, Paul Mezz, we have it tracked down to the ignition coil relay system, that is causing me to not get spark. After logging my AEM while cranking, I see the AEM is sending the signal to the coil to fire. The coil connectors are 3 wires, one is a ground, one is the signal from the AEM, and the other is a 12V power source, which goes through the ignition relay system. I found this on page 24 and 25 of the FSM wiring section, so I think now I can figure out what the cause is.

I have a strong feeling that one of the relays grounds through it's body, and that is what is preventing the relay from giving the coils power. If this is the case, it's very easy to ground the unit, and my problems should be solved. Either way, I should be all set early this week.

Wish me luck!

--mark

 

Car runs!! It was a single wire that was torn in the harness. I simply re-soldered it, and the car fired right up. It was the 12V power wire for the coils, so even though the AEM was sending signal, it wouldn't fire spark. Here's the video, she still sounds great

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbqRTTgucfA

WOOOOO!

 

Congrats! looking forward to seeing her in action

 

Hell yeah...good to finally see it started man...looking forward to this years results...

 

any idea how much weight in wiring was removed?

 

6 pounds from the engine bay in wiring so far. I am hoping for another 10+ from the rest of the car.

 

Amazing Bro. There is just a few of you out there, willing & able to put down this kinda work

Kick A$$. Looking fwd the finished results.

RS FTW

Peace

 

Hey I removed the ac but only found a square fuse in the small fuse box that had a snow flake symbol, so I can only assume it went to the ac, if I'm right I'm happy but I'd like to know what other wires slash clips. Would run the ac? Since I will be running speed density I know of the 6 wires on the Mac clip only 2 wires are needed and I for the most half know which ones are needed, just wondering if the other 4 clips can be removed and traced back to one or god knows how many different clips? Thanks ahead of time.

 

Looks great!

 

So, now that the car runs, I can move on to the rest of the wiring. First step, pull the dash!




A few bolts here and there, and it's ready to come out. It was easier for me than most, since it was already out, and I don't have heat or any vents to get in my way.



So now, I have access to all of the wiring:




Eventually, this pile of wires from the engine bay:



Will all get tucked up in this huge open space:



It's becoming pretty clear why I am doing this. Not only will the car be easier to work on, look better, and have less to go wrong, look at this harness. The dash harness is universal for all Evos, so it comes pre-wired for power locks, power windows, etc.... If you look at the other end of the connector, you can see my car only uses 2 wires, both for the door speaker. The rest of the wiring can all be pulled, traced back to it's source, and removed there. Simple and light!




Stay tuned for more wire madness!

--mark

 

awesome! i knew you'd figure it out quick.

 

So, without too much effort, I was able to undo a few bolts, and pop out a few clips, and remove the entire dash harness in one piece!




I marked what clips were being used, and what ones were not being used, so that I can easily remove big sections of wire. If you look here, on this whole set of wires, the only plug I use is for the cigarette lighter, so everything else can go!



Anyone know what this unit here does? It was mounted right under the steering wheel, directly next to the OBD scan port.



--mark

 

Thats for your immobilizer. I would leave it

 

I wonder if I can bypass it, since I don't think either the AEM or the stock ECU I use for inspection use it anymore. A quick test will tell!