How Do I Increase The Brake Feel On My OEM Brembos?
#1
How Do I Increase The Brake Feel On My OEM Brembos?
I'm coming from an E46 M3 where I had the larger 355mm 4 pot Brembos and 328mm rears. Boy did that kit GRAB!!! I just got my MR and the Brembos on it feel way soft and honestly worlds apart! Since the stock brakes are Brembos too I was wondering how I could significantly increase the brake feel, control and power? Some have suggested just replacing the entire kit? Any suggestions??? Thanks in advance!
#5
Originally Posted by Zeus
The Ferodo DS2500 pad is noted for less "compression" than many others. One of the first things I noticed with them is a "harder" pedal. I still run OE lines.
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#8
I concur with the DS2500 opinions. GREAT pads. Enough bite for the street, but they rock on the track. if you ONLY drive around town, go for a better street only pad. but the DS2500's are the best "streetable" track pad I've seen and used, no fade after a dozen hot laps.
You can also remove the metal shield on the inside of the rotor, this will help to reduce rotor temps a little bit. Forge makes brake cooling ducts as well.
Stainless braided lines will help a little bit. Better fluid, (I reccomend Motul RBF600). And some have noted improved pedal feel by using a master cylinder brace. It mounts underneath the driver side strut top in the engine bay. It has a brace and a bolt that you back out to force the master cylinder to stay put, as it can flex outward over 1/4" under high pedal pressure. Carbing makes a strut brace that has a master cylinder brace built in, and Weapon R makes a standalone master cylinder brace that mounts underneath a strut brace (may be a problem if your strut studs aren't long enough).
Edit-
As far as increasing power... Many drivers I see at the track think they need stronger brakes. However, if you're getting ABS to kick in, you're AT your braking threshold. In that case, you'll need stickier tires before you need more powerful brakes. More powerful brakes won't give you better braking, but they can reduce pedal pressure and driver fatigue. But "more braking power" is a common misconception, as the car won't stop any faster with bigger brakes. In many cases, bigger brakes may take longer as the system may not be balanced for the specific car in question, or the larger rotors and more aggressive pads may need time to heat up. Some setups are downright dangerous if they're cold.
edit2- if you DO go with ANY aftermarket pad, take both shims off each of the OEM pads. There's an obvious thin metal shim, but another (kevlar?) shim that's stuck to the pad, peel that off also, or you'll have VERY talkative brakes. Talkative like a stuck pig.
You can also remove the metal shield on the inside of the rotor, this will help to reduce rotor temps a little bit. Forge makes brake cooling ducts as well.
Stainless braided lines will help a little bit. Better fluid, (I reccomend Motul RBF600). And some have noted improved pedal feel by using a master cylinder brace. It mounts underneath the driver side strut top in the engine bay. It has a brace and a bolt that you back out to force the master cylinder to stay put, as it can flex outward over 1/4" under high pedal pressure. Carbing makes a strut brace that has a master cylinder brace built in, and Weapon R makes a standalone master cylinder brace that mounts underneath a strut brace (may be a problem if your strut studs aren't long enough).
Edit-
As far as increasing power... Many drivers I see at the track think they need stronger brakes. However, if you're getting ABS to kick in, you're AT your braking threshold. In that case, you'll need stickier tires before you need more powerful brakes. More powerful brakes won't give you better braking, but they can reduce pedal pressure and driver fatigue. But "more braking power" is a common misconception, as the car won't stop any faster with bigger brakes. In many cases, bigger brakes may take longer as the system may not be balanced for the specific car in question, or the larger rotors and more aggressive pads may need time to heat up. Some setups are downright dangerous if they're cold.
edit2- if you DO go with ANY aftermarket pad, take both shims off each of the OEM pads. There's an obvious thin metal shim, but another (kevlar?) shim that's stuck to the pad, peel that off also, or you'll have VERY talkative brakes. Talkative like a stuck pig.
Last edited by Wheelhaus; Jul 21, 2006 at 09:18 AM.
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