The Official Wide Tire Thread
#31
How long they last depends on the # of events you do, the surfaces, your alignment, and how you drive. If you use them for track days, they will be gone in a hurry, but they last a long time in autox - 100-150 runs?
#34
Evolving Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: S. Houston ClearLake
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Year/Make/Model: 2005 RS
Wheels: 18X9.5 35mm 5Zigen F10RC's
Tires: 275/35ZR18 Dunlop Direzza DZ101 treadwear 300 30k miles so far not to wear bars and I drive crazy daily
Suspension: Stock w/ Works ride springs. rears are trimmed about 1/2 coil
Alignment: 00.00 degree everything for DD maximum life
Fenders Rolled or Cut: minor rolling rear...NOT rolled all the way( I wish they wer cut n gone) only halfway
Other Body modifications: PDR guy pulled all the warps out of rear quarters so it looks factory again - no ghetto, hack job drift look
Advice: No rubbing at all ever. No spacers needed. Next tire is an all season 420 treadwear 285/30/18 for looks.
DSC02751.jpg?t=1199549820
03/12 Next tire became Nitto NT05 never an all season....My car is STRICTLY a daily driver for freeways in Houston(boring) except for occasional on/off ramp and never needed aggressive alignment done....3 idiot posts below had no clue about my priorities related to daily driving/tire wear expectations....I ended up getting 40k miles out of my NT05s and STILL had fun w/car past few years. Track snobs can fawk off
Wheels: 18X9.5 35mm 5Zigen F10RC's
Tires: 275/35ZR18 Dunlop Direzza DZ101 treadwear 300 30k miles so far not to wear bars and I drive crazy daily
Suspension: Stock w/ Works ride springs. rears are trimmed about 1/2 coil
Alignment: 00.00 degree everything for DD maximum life
Fenders Rolled or Cut: minor rolling rear...NOT rolled all the way( I wish they wer cut n gone) only halfway
Other Body modifications: PDR guy pulled all the warps out of rear quarters so it looks factory again - no ghetto, hack job drift look
Advice: No rubbing at all ever. No spacers needed. Next tire is an all season 420 treadwear 285/30/18 for looks.
DSC02751.jpg?t=1199549820
03/12 Next tire became Nitto NT05 never an all season....My car is STRICTLY a daily driver for freeways in Houston(boring) except for occasional on/off ramp and never needed aggressive alignment done....3 idiot posts below had no clue about my priorities related to daily driving/tire wear expectations....I ended up getting 40k miles out of my NT05s and STILL had fun w/car past few years. Track snobs can fawk off
Last edited by threepointsix; Mar 31, 2012 at 04:30 AM.
#35
What??? You have 0 camber front and rear??
I think you're going about this whole wide wheel/wide tire thing all wrong. The point is to improve performance, not decrease it. A 420 treadwear all season will not give "looks," so think about that a bit before doing it.
I think you're going about this whole wide wheel/wide tire thing all wrong. The point is to improve performance, not decrease it. A 420 treadwear all season will not give "looks," so think about that a bit before doing it.
#36
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Yeah, you have good parts, but having a zeroed-out alignment is plain stupid. Start by adding come camber at least, you will be glad you did. If you are just going to putt around with aggressive stuff and fender mods to run ****ty all seasons at "tire conservation" alignment, why have an Evo at all?
#37
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
Because phat tyres looks dope, YO!
J/K!
So here is a little about my new setup. . .
Year/Make/Model: 2006 RS
Wheels: F-18x11 custom machined CCW's, R-18x10 WedsSport SA-70
Tires: 285/30/18 Hoosier A6 all around
Suspension: Ohlins DA piggy-back shocks (WORKS stage IV) w/ custom spring setup
Alignment: -2.x camber front, -1.x camber rear, mimimal toe
Fenders Rolled or Cut: front-Voltex street edition fiberglass fenders, rear-rolled/pulled stock fenders
Other Body modifications: had to trim the front bumper and my splitter as well as massage a body seam behind the front tire to get them to fit. Zero rubbing issues.
Advice: be a big baller and fit 18x11's all the way around with a widebody kit in the rear!!
J/K!
So here is a little about my new setup. . .
Year/Make/Model: 2006 RS
Wheels: F-18x11 custom machined CCW's, R-18x10 WedsSport SA-70
Tires: 285/30/18 Hoosier A6 all around
Suspension: Ohlins DA piggy-back shocks (WORKS stage IV) w/ custom spring setup
Alignment: -2.x camber front, -1.x camber rear, mimimal toe
Fenders Rolled or Cut: front-Voltex street edition fiberglass fenders, rear-rolled/pulled stock fenders
Other Body modifications: had to trim the front bumper and my splitter as well as massage a body seam behind the front tire to get them to fit. Zero rubbing issues.
Advice: be a big baller and fit 18x11's all the way around with a widebody kit in the rear!!
#38
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
Year/Make/Model: 2003 GSR
Wheels: 18X9.5 +40 NT03+M w/ 25mm Spacer
Tires: R-Comps (1st set of wheels) 285/30ZR18 BFGoodrich R1. 2nd set (Street tires) 265/35/18 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs
Suspension: Bilstein PSS9, Revalved by Bilstein West for 12k/16k spring rates.
Alignment: 1/8th Toe out front; 0 toe rear, -3.1 Camber fr; -1.6 camber rear.
Fenders Rolled or Cut: Front - lots of rolling. No fender mods at all in the rear.
Other Body modifications: I had to do the BFG (Big ____ Hammer) mod in the inside of the wheel well - at full lock a metal tab cut into my tire (only on my drivers side).
Advice: BFGoodrich R1's are not my favorite autocross tire. I would use them for my track day events, but I won't purchase them again. I am switching to Hoosier A6. Also, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs are AWESOME for a street tire, the best I've ever used. Great autox times; I don't like switching tires at the small local events, so I decided to use a street tire set for multipurpose use, and I'm glad I made that choice because these things grip WONDEROUSLY for the 200 treadwear rating. Also, I love my extended lug nuts. It makes switching wheels much, much easier. A final note, with the +40, I can't fit the rear wheel centercaps on due to the axle stud sticking out. I have 3mm spacers in the mail to cure this problem.
pics w/ R1s:
With Z1's - Please don't hate on my Tire Rack windshield banner - its required for SCCA Nationals so that's why its on, but fret not, its now off the car
Wheels: 18X9.5 +40 NT03+M w/ 25mm Spacer
Tires: R-Comps (1st set of wheels) 285/30ZR18 BFGoodrich R1. 2nd set (Street tires) 265/35/18 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs
Suspension: Bilstein PSS9, Revalved by Bilstein West for 12k/16k spring rates.
Alignment: 1/8th Toe out front; 0 toe rear, -3.1 Camber fr; -1.6 camber rear.
Fenders Rolled or Cut: Front - lots of rolling. No fender mods at all in the rear.
Other Body modifications: I had to do the BFG (Big ____ Hammer) mod in the inside of the wheel well - at full lock a metal tab cut into my tire (only on my drivers side).
Advice: BFGoodrich R1's are not my favorite autocross tire. I would use them for my track day events, but I won't purchase them again. I am switching to Hoosier A6. Also, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs are AWESOME for a street tire, the best I've ever used. Great autox times; I don't like switching tires at the small local events, so I decided to use a street tire set for multipurpose use, and I'm glad I made that choice because these things grip WONDEROUSLY for the 200 treadwear rating. Also, I love my extended lug nuts. It makes switching wheels much, much easier. A final note, with the +40, I can't fit the rear wheel centercaps on due to the axle stud sticking out. I have 3mm spacers in the mail to cure this problem.
pics w/ R1s:
With Z1's - Please don't hate on my Tire Rack windshield banner - its required for SCCA Nationals so that's why its on, but fret not, its now off the car
#39
Newbie
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Reno
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Year/Make/Model: 2003 LY GSR
Wheels: Weds SA-70 17x9 (2 sets) 25mm spacers front
Tires: 275/40-17 BFG GForce Rebels (Street) 275/40-17 Hoosier R6 (Race)
Suspension: Tein Flex w/ EDFC
Alignment: -3.0f/-1.5r 0 Toe
Fenders Rolled or Cut: Minor Roll in Front, Minor Rolling/Flaring Rear
Other Body modifications: None
Advice: Had to raise the car up about 1/2" to fit these, along with removing fender liners. Do not remove fender liners if you use your car as daily driver.
Wheels: Weds SA-70 17x9 (2 sets) 25mm spacers front
Tires: 275/40-17 BFG GForce Rebels (Street) 275/40-17 Hoosier R6 (Race)
Suspension: Tein Flex w/ EDFC
Alignment: -3.0f/-1.5r 0 Toe
Fenders Rolled or Cut: Minor Roll in Front, Minor Rolling/Flaring Rear
Other Body modifications: None
Advice: Had to raise the car up about 1/2" to fit these, along with removing fender liners. Do not remove fender liners if you use your car as daily driver.
#42
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (6)
Work in progress!
My info has been whored around for some time now. Neither the time or money available to finish it unfortunately.
Car: 05MR
Wheel Specs: Rays CE-28's
F/18x10.5 +18 10mm spacer up front
R/18x9.5 +28
Tires: 265x35 Advan A048
Suspension: Buddy Club Racing Spec coilovers, perrin rear sway
Alignment: Front camber -3.0 Rear camber -2.6
Body Work: Charge speed 20mm wider front fenders, Butcherd Rears. Still rubs, need to get it to the body shop still. Hence WORK IN PROGRESS.
My info has been whored around for some time now. Neither the time or money available to finish it unfortunately.
Car: 05MR
Wheel Specs: Rays CE-28's
F/18x10.5 +18 10mm spacer up front
R/18x9.5 +28
Tires: 265x35 Advan A048
Suspension: Buddy Club Racing Spec coilovers, perrin rear sway
Alignment: Front camber -3.0 Rear camber -2.6
Body Work: Charge speed 20mm wider front fenders, Butcherd Rears. Still rubs, need to get it to the body shop still. Hence WORK IN PROGRESS.
#44
Evolved Member
iTrader: (32)
I went the warrtalon route and got some NT03's 18x9.5 +40's I would say at minimum you need a 23mm spacer up front. You don't need a spacer in the rear, but if you got a 3mm spacer you could actually install the wheel center caps over the axle nut.
Last edited by R/TErnie; Apr 27, 2009 at 10:56 PM.