Why you should check your brake pads before tracking your car
#1
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Why you should check your brake pads before tracking your car
This past weekend my friend Dave and I participated in an annual HPDE event at Grattan Raceway, he in his WW IX MR and me in my IX SSL. We're both running Ferrodo DS2500 pads. A decent track/street pad from the research I've done.
After a couple run sessions I returned to the pit area to find my friend Dave's car up on jacks. He said that at the end of the long front straight his pedal had gone to the floor and he had barely gotten the car stopped in time. He then pulled into the pits to take a look at his brakes. This is what he found...
What we found was that while he still had some pad left on the outside pad, the inside pad was completely gone! With the pad material gone the backing plate had gotten so hot that the pistons had literally melted into the backing plate!
Obviously this didn't do wonders for the pistons or rotor. So of course, I checked my pads as well. And while I had plenty of pad material left, I did find that the interior pad had less material left than the outside.
So I post this as a warning... always check that you had plenty of pad before you track your Evo.
After a couple run sessions I returned to the pit area to find my friend Dave's car up on jacks. He said that at the end of the long front straight his pedal had gone to the floor and he had barely gotten the car stopped in time. He then pulled into the pits to take a look at his brakes. This is what he found...
What we found was that while he still had some pad left on the outside pad, the inside pad was completely gone! With the pad material gone the backing plate had gotten so hot that the pistons had literally melted into the backing plate!
Obviously this didn't do wonders for the pistons or rotor. So of course, I checked my pads as well. And while I had plenty of pad material left, I did find that the interior pad had less material left than the outside.
So I post this as a warning... always check that you had plenty of pad before you track your Evo.
#4
Not just before you track; but each session should consist of an inspection - a lot of people are counting on you to be responsible. Pads, rotos and lug torque should be checked while you're in that vicinity...
#6
the pads could have been fine in tech . myself and a co-driver did a solo 1 event many years ago and killed a set of new repco metalmasters ( ok , a long time ago ) in one afternoon . ended up doing day two on napa pads ( it's all we could find to fit the car ) .
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#8
No, the pads didn't wear out in ONE session. Clearly, from the OP, the point was that his friend did not check if his pads were fine before taking the session, and the takeaway here is a reminder for us to check the amount of pad remaining every now and then, and especially before a track day or autocross.
#9
The negligence here was that the exterior pad was inspected, assuming both interior and exterior pads wear at the same rate, it was assumed that there was plenty of pad left for the event.
So, next topic... What pads are more aggressive than the DS2500's, but don't cost as much as the DS3000's?
So, next topic... What pads are more aggressive than the DS2500's, but don't cost as much as the DS3000's?
#10
No, the pads didn't wear out in ONE session. Clearly, from the OP, the point was that his friend did not check if his pads were fine before taking the session, and the takeaway here is a reminder for us to check the amount of pad remaining every now and then, and especially before a track day or autocross.
The negligence here was that the exterior pad was inspected, assuming both interior and exterior pads wear at the same rate, it was assumed that there was plenty of pad left for the event.
So, next topic... What pads are more aggressive than the DS2500's, but don't cost as much as the DS3000's?
So, next topic... What pads are more aggressive than the DS2500's, but don't cost as much as the DS3000's?
The bad thing about race pads like the DS3000 or EBC red or carbotech is when cold they require absurd amounts of pedal pressure to get em to stop in anything reasonable. Once hot they are amazing. I ran a Factory Five replica with carbotechs for a session or two a few years back - I couldn't overheat them if I tried.
#11
I understand the drawbacks of a dedicated race pad, and most likely would swap them in and out at the track, not drive with them on the street.
My DS2500's only lasted 3 track events, would a harder compound (more aggressive track pad) last longer?
My DS2500's only lasted 3 track events, would a harder compound (more aggressive track pad) last longer?
#12
i was just browsing and saw who it was and damn dave i knew you ran that hard but i'm still impressed. first of all i guess it was always known that with disc brakes, under correct operation, that the inside pad will always wear faster. it's simply in the design of the clamping action of the caliper and it will always happen like that.
beyond this the next questions would be are you still running the stock rotors? also did you end up looking into the brake duct cooling kit? i knew overheating seemed to be one of your biggest issues so that may be something to consider.
beyond this the next questions would be are you still running the stock rotors? also did you end up looking into the brake duct cooling kit? i knew overheating seemed to be one of your biggest issues so that may be something to consider.
#13
i was just browsing and saw who it was and damn dave i knew you ran that hard but i'm still impressed. first of all i guess it was always known that with disc brakes, under correct operation, that the inside pad will always wear faster. it's simply in the design of the clamping action of the caliper and it will always happen like that.
beyond this the next questions would be are you still running the stock rotors? also did you end up looking into the brake duct cooling kit? i knew overheating seemed to be one of your biggest issues so that may be something to consider.
beyond this the next questions would be are you still running the stock rotors? also did you end up looking into the brake duct cooling kit? i knew overheating seemed to be one of your biggest issues so that may be something to consider.
I AM still running stock rotors, as aftermarket rotors either eat brake pads too quickly (slotted), crack under heat (drilled), or are WAY too expensive (2-piece).
BTW, the MR comes with brake cooling ducts already built in. However they do offer aftermarket brake cooling ducts that attach to the steering knuckle and direct air from the fascia to the rotors, something I MAY look into, but already have a wish-list a mile long and the "boss" has cut me off for the season.
#14
All your pad info can be found via searching. Or check out the motorsports forum if you're planning on more DE's. Here's some threads that might be of interested:
Track Pads Discussion:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=257883
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=218567
I also had the inside rear wear MUCH faster than the outside. So, it can happen. I inspected the outside (only viewable) pads and knew I was getting low, but didn't specifically look at the inside. Remember that the last 1/2 of your brakepads won't last long!
As you move to a track pad, you'll need to be wary of the dangers of street driving on these, excessive squeal when not heated up, a different bed-in process and possible stock rotor wear.
I'd suggest flushing and upgrading your brake fluid (Motul) first and think about a brake cooling duct kit (Forge, AMS). G/L; all the info is above.
Track Pads Discussion:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=257883
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=218567
I also had the inside rear wear MUCH faster than the outside. So, it can happen. I inspected the outside (only viewable) pads and knew I was getting low, but didn't specifically look at the inside. Remember that the last 1/2 of your brakepads won't last long!
As you move to a track pad, you'll need to be wary of the dangers of street driving on these, excessive squeal when not heated up, a different bed-in process and possible stock rotor wear.
I'd suggest flushing and upgrading your brake fluid (Motul) first and think about a brake cooling duct kit (Forge, AMS). G/L; all the info is above.
#15
All your pad info can be found via searching. Or check out the motorsports forum if you're planning on more DE's. Here's some threads that might be of interested:
Track Pads Discussion:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=257883
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=218567
I also had the inside rear wear MUCH faster than the outside. So, it can happen. I inspected the outside (only viewable) pads and knew I was getting low, but didn't specifically look at the inside. Remember that the last 1/2 of your brakepads won't last long!
As you move to a track pad, you'll need to be wary of the dangers of street driving on these, excessive squeal when not heated up, a different bed-in process and possible stock rotor wear.
I'd suggest flushing and upgrading your brake fluid (Motul) first and think about a brake cooling duct kit (Forge, AMS). G/L; all the info is above.
Track Pads Discussion:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=257883
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=218567
I also had the inside rear wear MUCH faster than the outside. So, it can happen. I inspected the outside (only viewable) pads and knew I was getting low, but didn't specifically look at the inside. Remember that the last 1/2 of your brakepads won't last long!
As you move to a track pad, you'll need to be wary of the dangers of street driving on these, excessive squeal when not heated up, a different bed-in process and possible stock rotor wear.
I'd suggest flushing and upgrading your brake fluid (Motul) first and think about a brake cooling duct kit (Forge, AMS). G/L; all the info is above.
Thanks for the links, I have found a lot of great information while searching, but the options are a mile long and opinions are many.
If I went in the direction of a dedicated track pad, I would swap them out at the track, I would NOT drive them on the street.
Also, I switched to ATE Super Blue and have NEVER had a single air bubble. I think Motul is overpriced and overkill, personally.