winter tires
Lemmonhead, I'll challenge you to a grip test 
. Will have my blizzaks on by friday. Unfortunately I have to put them on my big ole wheels. I'm hoping that the awesomeness of the Blizzaks will still be realized in the 265/35/18 size...Ehh not real excited about a 9.5in wide wheel in the snow, but we'll see.
I'm from Texas and this will be year 2 in the snow for me. I had the stockers last year with all seasons, and things were ok. I understand my size this winter in not ideal, but what is everyone else's take? Any experience with a size like this in snow? They do it in the new Landrovers
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. Will have my blizzaks on by friday. Unfortunately I have to put them on my big ole wheels. I'm hoping that the awesomeness of the Blizzaks will still be realized in the 265/35/18 size...Ehh not real excited about a 9.5in wide wheel in the snow, but we'll see. I'm from Texas and this will be year 2 in the snow for me. I had the stockers last year with all seasons, and things were ok. I understand my size this winter in not ideal, but what is everyone else's take? Any experience with a size like this in snow? They do it in the new Landrovers
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Haha it's all good man...Not trying to step on anyone's toes. Do chime in on the other comments in my post everyone, and disregard my "challenge". It's off. This guy needs some new shoes dang it!! 
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From: Edmond, OK
I live in Oklahoma and we get snowfall 2-3 times per winter. Not very heavy, maybe 6-10 inches max. It usually sticks around for 4-6 days and then melts away. We also get freezing rain or sleet a couple of times per winter. This lasts about the same. The roads will tend to stay wet for at least 2-3 days after the snow/ice melts off. In between this, the roads will be pretty dry and the temperatures can vary greatly, 10-60 F. I'm not sure if a dedicated snow tire would be the best for me? Even if I buy a second set of rims, I will still be swapping out fairly often since the snow/ice is not down for long. Would an all season tire be a better option? I had the BF Goodrich KDW's on my old STI and they worked pretty well even in the snow/slush. Anybody running these tires in the winter on their Evo? How do the handle the snow/slush? Any other ideas for a good all season tire that won't lose too much grip when the roads are dry? Goodyear F1 AS, others?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Yeah, if thats all the snow you will see a all season will do you well.
If you want a second set of rims just put some hard core summer rubber on them or maybe even some race rubber if you track or drag. Use the all seasons most of the time and bust out the sticky shoes when you want to do something special.
If you want a second set of rims just put some hard core summer rubber on them or maybe even some race rubber if you track or drag. Use the all seasons most of the time and bust out the sticky shoes when you want to do something special.
correct me if i'm wrong, but for a traction competition wouldn't it really rely more on the driver and the car? If you're car is making alot of power its going to be more difficult to get traction and less power would be easier to keep the tires from breaking loose. So i suppose it comes down to who knows how to use the equipment they have. My moneys on the blizzaks/owners.
Sidenote, we should start a betting pool on this if it goes down. 1000 to 1 for the avalanche tires. anyone? haha
Sidenote, we should start a betting pool on this if it goes down. 1000 to 1 for the avalanche tires. anyone? haha
Lemmonhead, I'll challenge you to a grip test . Will have my blizzaks on by friday. Unfortunately I have to put them on my big ole wheels. I'm hoping that the awesomeness of the Blizzaks will still be realized in the 265/35/18 size...Ehh not real excited about a 9.5in wide wheel in the snow, but we'll see.
I'm from Texas and this will be year 2 in the snow for me. I had the stockers last year with all seasons, and things were ok. I understand my size this winter in not ideal, but what is everyone else's take? Any experience with a size like this in snow? They do it in the new Landrovers .
. Will have my blizzaks on by friday. Unfortunately I have to put them on my big ole wheels. I'm hoping that the awesomeness of the Blizzaks will still be realized in the 265/35/18 size...Ehh not real excited about a 9.5in wide wheel in the snow, but we'll see. I'm from Texas and this will be year 2 in the snow for me. I had the stockers last year with all seasons, and things were ok. I understand my size this winter in not ideal, but what is everyone else's take? Any experience with a size like this in snow? They do it in the new Landrovers
.I'm curiuos to see how this works for you. I'd go with the narrowest tire you can mount.
It snows here in Lake Tahoe once in awhile so I guess I can comment. When I decided to make my evo work it's best in the snow I looked at what WRC cars use. They use a 4" wide rim. Can't seem to find any tires in the U.S. that skinny. What I could find is a Blizzak ws-50 for 5.5 inch rim. Next step was having some 16x5 three piece rims made in the u.k. That there is the secret to WRC handling in the snow(or at least you will think your that good). I have changed ride heights, rake, sway-bars and spring rates. Still prefer stock with just these wheels. I have tried Nokian tires on other fwd cars and didn't like them. That's not to say they wouldn't work good on an Evo. This winter I've dropped down from a 205/60 to a 205/55. It will lower the car quite a bit. I don't think I have to worry about ground clearance too much. In this picture after I got back in all that was needed to take off was a little more throttle.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...2&d=1139770188
so I guess I can comment. When I decided to make my evo work it's best in the snow I looked at what WRC cars use. They use a 4" wide rim. Can't seem to find any tires in the U.S. that skinny. What I could find is a Blizzak ws-50 for 5.5 inch rim. Next step was having some 16x5 three piece rims made in the u.k. That there is the secret to WRC handling in the snow(or at least you will think your that good). I have changed ride heights, rake, sway-bars and spring rates. Still prefer stock with just these wheels. I have tried Nokian tires on other fwd cars and didn't like them. That's not to say they wouldn't work good on an Evo. This winter I've dropped down from a 205/60 to a 205/55. It will lower the car quite a bit. I don't think I have to worry about ground clearance too much. In this picture after I got back in all that was needed to take off was a little more throttle. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...2&d=1139770188
dsycks
Since your into rallying. What do think about the hankook w300 icebears? Have your seen or heard of people racing on them? How do you think they would compare to LM-25's or M3's on street and track? I have a set in 225/45/17 on stock bbs rims. They worked well last year butit doesn't really snow that much in Northern KY/Cincinnati area. I can saw they work really well in the dry.
Thanks
Since your into rallying. What do think about the hankook w300 icebears? Have your seen or heard of people racing on them? How do you think they would compare to LM-25's or M3's on street and track? I have a set in 225/45/17 on stock bbs rims. They worked well last year butit doesn't really snow that much in Northern KY/Cincinnati area. I can saw they work really well in the dry.
Thanks
tahoeacr- nice dedication and set up to go with the narrow rims! One thing we have found is that in the snow we like long soft travel. We considered trying to do some hydraulic bump stops like some of the big boys but just did some extra cushy rubber bumpers in the hopes of eating up the big hits that came only now and then.
As for the Hankooks, I know Matt Johnson was running them (as he is sponsored by Hankook). http://www.carolinars.com/
He is as good a young driver as I have seen without bigger money support. He always did well with the tires but I don't know how much was rubber and how much was him. I do know that guys who paid for their own tires went with the Hakkas if they could afford them and the WS-50s otherwise. Simple as that.
As for using them on street and track, please reconsider. You can use a snow tire on the street but its not really a performance tire. The tread blocks are smaller and very pliable. They are made like this to give and move with the surface and keep as much grip as is possible on snow/ice. When put on a hard surface these same features make them feel loose and floppy and do not inspire confidence.
Sadly there is really no one size fits all tire but some of the best all season tires are pretty damn good. They don't do any one thing super well but they will do most anything decently.
If you want to be real happy, get some winter or all season tires and wheels and some super sticky shoes for summer fun and don't look back.
As for the Hankooks, I know Matt Johnson was running them (as he is sponsored by Hankook). http://www.carolinars.com/
He is as good a young driver as I have seen without bigger money support. He always did well with the tires but I don't know how much was rubber and how much was him. I do know that guys who paid for their own tires went with the Hakkas if they could afford them and the WS-50s otherwise. Simple as that.
As for using them on street and track, please reconsider. You can use a snow tire on the street but its not really a performance tire. The tread blocks are smaller and very pliable. They are made like this to give and move with the surface and keep as much grip as is possible on snow/ice. When put on a hard surface these same features make them feel loose and floppy and do not inspire confidence.
Sadly there is really no one size fits all tire but some of the best all season tires are pretty damn good. They don't do any one thing super well but they will do most anything decently.
If you want to be real happy, get some winter or all season tires and wheels and some super sticky shoes for summer fun and don't look back.
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From: wexford,pa
when it snows in independence, mo, I will be at the independence center mall waiting to beat your lousy blizzaks. Shoot I hope everyone in this thread can make it since they put blizzaks on a goddley pedestal I would love to see the looks on all your faces when I win with my avalanche.
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From: wexford,pa
You need more tread depth in snow because your tires need to compress the snow in their grooves and release it as the they roll. If there isn't sufficient tread depth, the "bites" of snow your tires can take on each revolution will be reduced to "nibbles," and your vehicle's traction and mobility will be sacrificed. Because tread depth is such an important element for snow traction, winter tires usually start with noticeably deeper tread depths than typical All-Season or summer tires. Some winter tires even have a second series of "wear bars" molded in their tread pattern indicating approximately 6/32" remaining tread depth to warn you when your tires no longer meet the desired tread depth.
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From: wexford,pa
wikipedia even says the same thing.
Treads are often designed to meet specific product marketing positions. High performance tires have small void ratios to provide more rubber in contact with the road for higher traction, but may be compounded with softer rubber that provides better traction, but wears quickly. Mud and snow tires are designed with higher void ratios to channel away rain and mud, while providing better gripping performance. When installing two new tires with a deep tread, they should be placed in the rear to minimize the chance of oversteer.
Treads are often designed to meet specific product marketing positions. High performance tires have small void ratios to provide more rubber in contact with the road for higher traction, but may be compounded with softer rubber that provides better traction, but wears quickly. Mud and snow tires are designed with higher void ratios to channel away rain and mud, while providing better gripping performance. When installing two new tires with a deep tread, they should be placed in the rear to minimize the chance of oversteer.
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From: wexford,pa
and if you cant make it to missouri, well I am going to video tape the speed and distance to stop using the avalanche tires. You do the same with your tires and we can all watch and learn. Lets do a 15mph,25mph and a 35mph speed to fully stop video. Also lets do a cornering video to see which gives better traction, cause thats important also.
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From: wexford,pa
oh another one I forgot,
visit
http://www.snowtire.info/forum/portal.php?page=6
you will see blizzaks sound more like light snow,
avalanche is more of deep heavy snow.
Snow Traction
Deep, heavy snow is much like mud. It requires a tire with large tread blocks and good size openings. The tire must be able to dig in yet not get clogged at low speeds. If the tire can not expel the snow, it will start making itself into a snow ball. This type of tire is the "classic" M+S design. Classically, the blocks are large and have large voids (empty spaces) between them. The tires sold for most trucks (designed to see mud, regardless if they ever do) are representative of this tread.
Lighter snow – often found when the weather turns really cold, and there are no salt trucks – allows a different tread design. The snow tires designed for high speed driving in the snow are often designed for lighter snow. The tread blocks are closer, smaller, often cut with sipes (little grooves). Because the tread design relies on centrifugal force to throw snow out of the tread, these tires often do not work well at low speeds.
visit
http://www.snowtire.info/forum/portal.php?page=6
you will see blizzaks sound more like light snow,
avalanche is more of deep heavy snow.
Snow Traction
Deep, heavy snow is much like mud. It requires a tire with large tread blocks and good size openings. The tire must be able to dig in yet not get clogged at low speeds. If the tire can not expel the snow, it will start making itself into a snow ball. This type of tire is the "classic" M+S design. Classically, the blocks are large and have large voids (empty spaces) between them. The tires sold for most trucks (designed to see mud, regardless if they ever do) are representative of this tread.
Lighter snow – often found when the weather turns really cold, and there are no salt trucks – allows a different tread design. The snow tires designed for high speed driving in the snow are often designed for lighter snow. The tread blocks are closer, smaller, often cut with sipes (little grooves). Because the tread design relies on centrifugal force to throw snow out of the tread, these tires often do not work well at low speeds.