i assume that is directed towards me, and yes, they are the same as oem style, only open ended

 

Put an old lugnut on top of the old stud and slam it out with a BFH. I change studs on trucks like this, and they are much harder to get out than cars.

Then put the new stud in and use a good lugnut to pull it through with an impact gun. If you're good, you should be able to do all 20 in about an hour.

 

thanks for the info

 

you mean from start to finish?? ha, not likely....even moving at top speed with everything right in front of you to do the job it would likely take longer than that

1. Remove Wheels
2. Remove Brake Calipers (rest them on the control arm so you dont damage the brake line)
3. Remove Brake Rotors
4. Remove Brake Line clip from back of dust shield
5. Remove Dust Shields
6. Remove Castle Nut Cotter pins
7. Remove Castle nuts
8. Remove Hubs (remembering to do one at a time so you know which hub goes where...the fronts are the same, but different from the rear)
9. Press out old studs (or beat out, but dont put unneeded stress on hub assembly)
10. Press (or Impact) new studs in
11. Reinstall Hubs
12. Reinstall Castle Nuts
13. Reinstall Castle Nut cotter pins
14. Reinstall Dust Shields
15. Reinstall Brake Line Clip on back of dust shields
16. Reinstall Brake Rotors
17. Reinstall Brake Calipers
18. (Recommended) Spray everything down with brake cleaner...grease or dirt on brake rotors or parts can cause squeaking
19. Reinstall wheels
20. Torque new lug nuts/wheel studs (do again after driving for short time)

All of these steps would have to average 5 minutes to do the whole job in an hour...not something I see happening

 

You don't need to remove the hubs. But if you're not confident with a BFH then I guess you should remove the hubs.

 

you do realize that beating on the hub flange when its not braced is a good way to kill the life of your hub bearings, right?

 

with those lug nuts are you able to get to them ok with a normal socket? some wheels have too much of a recess and you gotta use longer nuts

 

no, there hasnt been any issue with that

i just use the same deep impact socket i used on the stock lug nuts

 

Thanks for the info. I just picked up a set of ARP's for the front of my car from RRE and I'll be doing them sometime this week .

 

no problem...let me know if you have any questions

 

Like mentioned by nightwalker there's no need to remove the hub. You need to rotate the hub assembly to get the wheel studs out one by one, as they come out( with the hub mounted) only in a small window of the entire rotation.

Some washers and a long open lug nuts does trick of getting the new one back on.

As far as killing bearings, I would be more concerned with the loads put on them by the car everyday because it's far greater than the small tap it takes to push the stud out.
For added comfort I don't see any sign of failures on the couple of evos I did extended lugs on, including mine, but you can never be too cautious and like majorpayne advised if you have acces to a press, by all mean go "the hub removal way".

 

madmax,
Will the ARP longer studs fit in the front hubs without removing it? I'm about to install mine.

 

where can I find the cheapest price just for the front?

 

Yes they will, just rotate the hub as you are removing them because the studs will not come all the way out unless in a certain spot. You'll understand what I'm talking about when you are doing it and it's pretty straightfoward.

 

Its like that on the Stratus/Eclipse that I've replaced studs on. I just rotated the hub till the one could get out, hit it with a BFH, and pull the new stud in with a wrench. I felt the impact gun would pose too much rish of damage, but again thats just caution. I wasn't worried about the bearings when I was beating the old lugs out.