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ARP wheel studs installed

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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 11:44 AM
  #31  
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what's BFH?
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by madmax199
As far as killing bearings, I would be more concerned with the loads put on them by the car everyday because it's far greater than the small tap it takes to push the stud out.
Small tap? I've always had to bash the ever-livin' snot outta those suckers to get them to dislodge.

When I do studs on the Evo, I'll remove the hubs. A little extra time but far less risk.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 12:05 PM
  #33  
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From: in a van down by the river
Originally Posted by Suave EVO
what's BFH?
"Big F(reakin') Hammer"
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 12:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JKav
"Big F(reakin') Hammer"
hahaha!

thanks!
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 01:03 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JKav
Small tap? I've always had to bash the ever-livin' snot outta those suckers to get them to dislodge.

When I do studs on the Evo, I'll remove the hubs. A little extra time but far less risk.
BFH and, yes, small tap does the trick ; (no need to "bash the ever'livin snot outta of those suckers") let the hammer's wheight do the work way less stress on components .
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 07:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by madmax199
As far as killing bearings, I would be more concerned with the loads put on them by the car everyday because it's far greater than the small tap it takes to push the stud out.
Thing is, the bearing is designed to absorb the loads when driving the car and shock loads such as hitting a pothole are absorbed by the tyre.

Hard shock loads such as hitting a corroded-in stud with a hammer may 'dent' the inner bearing surface, and you only need a very very small indent to cause noise and accelerated wear.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 12:01 PM
  #37  
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From: tracy
how are the rears? just as easy as the fronts? just rotate until you get clearance and bang it out?
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by xi0V3MR
how are the rears? just as easy as the fronts? just rotate until you get clearance and bang it out?
Same deal, just rotate.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:38 PM
  #39  
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Anyone know how to brace the bearing and use a BFH? I was wondering if using a piece of wood on a jack may perhaps help...I am just nervous my hubs are seized and will not come off. I should have done this before, dang it
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 01:57 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by madmax199
Yes they will, just rotate the hub as you are removing them because the studs will not come all the way out unless in a certain spot. You'll understand what I'm talking about when you are doing it and it's pretty straightfoward.

I am about replace my H&R studs since they got damaged with ARP ones...Just trying to be cautious here, but is it such a good idea to rotate the hub with three wheel down on the ground, wouldn't I need to raise all four corners since it is AWD?
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #41  
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Are you guys bringing the new studs in while the hub is off the car? I removed the whole knuckle (front and rear) and am wondering if I should wait to put them back on the car before zipping the new studs on or do it off the car. What say ye?
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 12:04 PM
  #42  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
You don't bang in the new studs. Use an open lug and pull them through. Should not take more than a quick hit with a hammer to get them off either.

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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #43  
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From: CT
Originally Posted by SmikeEvo
You don't bang in the new studs. Use an open lug and pull them through. Should not take more than a quick hit with a hammer to get them off either.

I said bring, not bang. I've already hammered them out. Just curious if people zip them on with the assembly on or off the car. I'll use a cordless impact driver since I don't have a compressor and impact gun.
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 07:05 PM
  #44  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
That impact should work just fine.
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by SmikeEvo
You don't bang in the new studs. Use an open lug and pull them through. Should not take more than a quick hit with a hammer to get them off either.

Thx. Worked out well. Just like 2 firm smacks and they'll pop out!

As for putting the new extended studs back in, I don't have an impact or anything. So I am using some spacers and an old lugnut and my torque wrench. Seems to be doing the trick. Anyone have an idea of what we should torque these too?
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