ARP wheel studs installed
When I do studs on the Evo, I'll remove the hubs. A little extra time but far less risk.
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Hard shock loads such as hitting a corroded-in stud with a hammer may 'dent' the inner bearing surface, and you only need a very very small indent to cause noise and accelerated wear.
Anyone know how to brace the bearing and use a BFH? I was wondering if using a piece of wood on a jack may perhaps help...I am just nervous my hubs are seized and will not come off. I should have done this before, dang it
I am about replace my H&R studs since they got damaged with ARP ones...Just trying to be cautious here, but is it such a good idea to rotate the hub with three wheel down on the ground, wouldn't I need to raise all four corners since it is AWD?
Are you guys bringing the new studs in while the hub is off the car? I removed the whole knuckle (front and rear) and am wondering if I should wait to put them back on the car before zipping the new studs on or do it off the car. What say ye?
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
You don't bang in the new studs. Use an open lug and pull them through. Should not take more than a quick hit with a hammer to get them off either.
I've already hammered them out. Just curious if people zip them on with the assembly on or off the car. I'll use a cordless impact driver since I don't have a compressor and impact gun.
As for putting the new extended studs back in, I don't have an impact or anything. So I am using some spacers and an old lugnut and my torque wrench. Seems to be doing the trick. Anyone have an idea of what we should torque these too?







That impact should work just fine.