I picked up an electric impact today just for this and got my front studs on. Still did the washers and old lugnut method and it zipped them right on in 2 seconds flat. $45 on sale at the local Harbor Freight today.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...112&zmap=45252

 

Exactly the method I used, with the same cheapo impact gun.

 

Thought I'd toss up some pics to show the length difference from the stock to the ARP studs:

 

What's the trick for removing the OEM wheel studs on the rear of the car?

 

I had the entire rear apart for the Energy Suspension Master Bushing kit and used the same hammer method no problem whatsoever. Removing the rear knuckle assembly can be a huge PITA because of the parking brake, though.

 

That does sound like a huge PITA. Are there other options for the rear extended wheel stud installs?

 

I guess in retrospect I didn't really have to remove the whole knuckle and parking brake. I did at the time because I planned to do the studs at my friend's house with a shop press. All I ended up doing was hammering them out at this place, though. Could've saved a lot of parking brake trouble and hammered them out at my place. Live and learn.

What's the word on banging studs out with the knuckle on the car? Bad juju?

 

^nothing. I've replaced studs on many cars by banging them out, never had a problem.

 

whats the part number on the arp's and how much did you pay? i need some and didnt think of checking ebay. thanks

 

They're super cheap on Jegs.com

 

how do you just hammer out the rears? The ebrake is in the way for them to come out or for the new ones to go on. Am i missing something?

 

Any guidance on the rear R&R ?

I found these @ MAP http://www.maperformance.com/arp-sub...-stud-kit.html

 

When I replaced mine I didn't even have to hit all that hard to get the oem ones out. Big mallet and a couple of hits did it, think about 3 or so as I didn't want to hit it with alot of force. It was quite simple really, I was surprised how little time it took.

 

I recently installed a set of these on my car, and our friend and owner of the car we autocross did the same on his. We left the hub on the car and used the wrench/socket/washer method for installing them.

I highly recommend taking the hub off and pressing them in that way instead. About half the studs on my friends car needed to be re-died, along with having to re-tap most of his lightweight/expensive lug nuts.

I took extra extra care installing mine and I still ended up having to re-die two of the studs. Off hand I'd say the thread quality is on these is absolute crap, but, we weren't very friendly to them, so, take that for what it's worth (I did the same install earlier on another car, but with H&R's, no problems).

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by CliveW

Thing is, the bearing is designed to absorb the loads when driving the car and shock loads such as hitting a pothole are absorbed by the tyre.

The bearing surface is unlikely to dent. Not sure if evo uses an roller or ball bearing but you’re better off leaving the hub attached with axle nut on and tight because it holds the bearing together tight. Usually the bearings are designed so that the axle nut will keep the inner, outer and rollers all tight.