^ PM me with your address, i'll send you instructions Monday on the front bar so you have an idea.


- andrew

 

1) Disconnect steering column from rack
2) remove cross bars and down pipe
3) Remove brace which holds front tranny mount
4) disconnect power steering line at engine mount to allow some slack
5) remove bolt from rear tranny mount to subframe
6) Loosen 6 bolts holding subframe in place
7) support crossmember assy
8) remove 6 bolts holding crossmember in place
9) drop subframe about 4-6"
10) remove swaybar
11) replace swaybar
12) reassemble

It's not the worst, but certainly not fun. Takes a couple hours doing it on jackstands in your garage.

 

wow! thats pretty hideous just the same.

I guess I need to think about that job.

Thanks!

 

the diff we replaced at ~1600 miles was not performing to spec. less then 1 ftlb of inital torque.

 

great info!

 

I went slower yet after my last event. I am going back to my last setup but with the lower pressures and going to work on my line. next is a 2 day event so maybe it will help me dial it in more. May need to chunk out the cash and get ucp's to get some camber in the car.

I have read alot of about TRE diff upgrade and it looks like a worthwhile and relativley easy upgrade... however its illegal for class so prolly not goign to happen.

 

I read the rulebook and have a STU legal version.

 

Link?

 

I used a pyrometer to get my tires pressures dialed in (well at least as best I can with this little bit of camber). But I found that 33.5fr/36.5R worked very well for the high grip surface I was on. The car is behaving well with the bar set at medium.
I still have gobs of body roll tho.

The GASS guys showed up this weekend, needless to say running with locals means didly when these guys can show up an beat you buy 3 seconds. I am going to spend more time with the STU driver tomorrow and try to learn more.

It is becoming clear tho that the price of winning in STU at regional or national level involves coil overs and much more pieces even before we worry so much about the loose nut behind the wheel. But I will continue to whittle away at it until I feel that I am sure that I have got everything the car can give before opening the checkbook. TIA.

 

I'm in the same boat. I'm going to de-mod to run in STU. I don't feel like dropping tons on coilovers so I think I'm just going to stick to springs for now. I feel I'll learn the car much better having it "close" to stock.

 

A good driver can be competetive locally with a stock 9.

 

These 2 items will help you tremendously I'm running almost 3 degrees front camber with them. Some will tell you they don't work or will slip. I've found those people are trying to sell you something.

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=105&page=1
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=105&page=1

You can find the ingalls bolts on eBay for about $25.

 

LOL, STU is not a stock class. A good driver in an under prepared car will get a lesson in humility.

 

Whiteline Roll center kit is illegal for STU I believe. Those camber bolts do more than flipping the factory bolts to -2.0 ?

 

That really depends on the depth of STU where you are. Around here you'll get your *** handed to you in STU in a stock car.