So, why is it an upgrade service?

 

apparently it takes him about an hour less labor to rebuild a stock diff then to rebuild and modify the stock diff to 'upgraded'.

 

Because I do see rear differentials that are showing excessive wear, simple as that. If ya don't need it, you don't need and if ya don't want it, you don't want it. I'm not trying to talk people into anything here, I have enough other stuff to do.

 

I luv oversteer... maybe i need your built rear diff to floss out at the next time attack....

n

 

Youz crazy brah!

 

interesting. I wonder how much extra lockup a differential (stock) can have when rebuilt? aka what it should originally have?

 

That all depends on which way you go with it.

The STU version will provide everything that the differential was designed to do from the factory and I would expect better operation while providing longer service life.

Now the max-lock should be plenty for the track ***** EVOs while being much stronger because of there are more friction plates which will reduce the possibility of breaking the tangs. There is another thread about this one if you search for it.

 

Cool Ill go check it out. I may seem to be abrubt, but really I just wanted to see what the deal was. Im always amazed (have been since seeing what you guys do with DSM tranny's) at what people come up with to upgrade the stock equipment.

 

Jon, sent you an email... my diff is dead.... I wanna try out yours asap!!

thx

n

 

not sure if it was mentioned here, but i'd try lowering rear tire pressure to get some heat into them. tire pyrometer would work wonders here.

 

I'm going to throw my .02 in here, sorry if its a little scatter-brained...

Having only done about 10 or so autox's in my lifetime, all within the last year, I'm just starting to get the feel for what my car is doing and more importantly what its not doing. Its so much fun when you can diagnose a problem and either adjust your driving or the car to correct it.

The problem I'm noticing recently which I haven't been able to fix is that I can not get the car to turn in to the left for the life of me. My 04 SSL GSR is running 100% stock suspension w/ RE01-R 245/40 tires on stock rims. I realize its probably the driver and not the car but other then trying to go slower in & faster out what can I do to minimize this?

Here is the situation I'm talking about:

Where I autox there always is a 180* left handed sweeper that is pretty much the same on every course they setup. Usually I've been able to enter at a good speed, get my foot to the floor quickley, and track out to where I need to be for the next turn w/o much understeer. its usually one of the fun turns on the course. But this past weekend for some reason, when I would go to turn in the car would just push me straight which killed my momentium thru the turn. I tried going slower in the begining of the turn and it helped a little but it still didn't feel right to me, not like it did at past events.

do you think it was my line or am I just asking too much of the front tires? they didn't make any noise and I really felt like I was going slow enough to be able to turn the car but all it did was push to the outside. I was using some high pressures in my tires 44-45f/44-46r.

When I would understeer in that turn, if I straightened the wheel out, it would correct itself and start to turn in again. but, it felt like if I went into the turn with the wheel pointed in that direction I would plow a bunch of cones down instead of turning. Am I just over driving the car by cranking the wheel too much and asking the front tires to work more then they can, or is this just something I have to live with in an EVO? DO I need to use less steering input and try to get the car to rotate with the throttle?

I'd like to get this figured out before I upgrade any of the suspension components. whether its my driving or the car I'd like to be able to get the car to do what I want it to do and be happy with the handeling before I start throwing parts at it.

TIA.

BTW I have some video of the runs I can upload if that would help any... sorry if this is too OT.

 

It sounds like you might be over driving, not turning in smooth enough. But also, those tire pressures are way too high. even for the RE01R's which have a softer sidewall than the dunlops or neovas, 44+ is too much. drop the fronts to 38 and the rears to 40 and see how it feels. if you want to stay stock suspension, add all the camber in t hat you can with the stock front camber bolts, that will help you take advantage of the higher grip you will recieve by running the lower tire pressure.

 

You could post links to videos if you wish (it certainly would be entertaining ). I agree with what FatheroftheEVO said, you are most likely overdriving the car and should try following his recommendations. Remember you can only push the car as fast as it can go and you have to adapt your style to the car's strenghts. With a stock suspension setup you'll be limited in what you can do. If you want the car to handle the way you want then you may want to consider coilovers, swaybars, etc to tune the car to your driving style.

 

Thanks for the comments so far. I was thinking maybe its a combination of me overdriving the car and the front pressures being too high which isn't giving me a good contact patch (I only have the stock amount of camber). I'll try the lower pressures suggested next time and see if that changes anything.

here is one of the videos. its kind of hard to makeout what the car is doing from just the crappy video. Even with me knowing what happened it was hard to tell but any more input you guys want to give is fine with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JU5JrCinYqI

 

Try to lower the pressures for sure. The rule of thumb is you want as low of tire pressures as you can have without rolling the tire over too much. there are little arrows on the sidewalls that you shouldnt go much past. Now, without adding camber, you are most likely going to roll past those arrows no matter what, so It would be a really really good idea to run the "max" camber you can with the stock camber bolts.

As I see from the video, I couldnt tell what the car was doing at the turnaround. But I did see you doing a very common mistake. You werent "Backsiding" the slalom cones, or late-apexing them. heres a very quick illustration I threw together (dont laugh). moving from left to right, your path is o n the top, "backsiding" is on the bottom:




This also goes for those offsets in the video, you dont want to turn at the cone, you turn before it and pass by the back side of the cone (hence the name). If you dont use this technique, it is extremely easy to get behind with your turn-ins on a slalom and then you have to slow down, you scrub speed turning in harder, or you plow through cones alltogether. It is much faster and smoother to use this technique.