Hey, guys. Noticed that the Mitsu service manual has two front suspension camber specs to choose from.

Camber (Selectable from 2 options)
-1 degree 00' +/- 0 degrees 30'* or
-2 degree 00' +/- 0 degrees 30'*

1. Which option are Evos set up with from the factory?
2. Which is the best option of the two?
3. Which is the more aggressive?
4. Any noticeable difference in handling between the two?

Thanks!

 

The first would be easier on the tires, the second more aggressive and better handling because of it. You may notice a little bit of a handling difference from having the second. I have no idea which would be the factory setting.

 

1 - Evos are set with the -1 bolt setting from the factory.
2 - I like more camber. Even on street driving. I run -1.7 or so everyday.
3 - The -2 bolt selection is more agressive.
4 - Yes.

What are you going to use the car for? If its just daily driving, go with

Front: -1
Rear: 0
No tow all around

More agressive:
Front: -2
Rear: -1
No tow all around

 

what setting should i go with for max tires life, front and rear??? i got camber bolt kit on my car. thanks

 

I would go with the first one if you want lots of tire life.

 

More agressive:
Front: -2
Rear: -1
No toe all around

I run that on the street all the time, it's not so bad for tire wear, but you should rotate the tires fairly often. The -2 front camber bolt setting only yielded -1.3 to -1.4 on my car, so it's not quite as aggressive as it sounds.

 

I just finished aligning my car last night. I set the front bolts to the -2 setting, and I took all of the slack out of the shock as I tightened the bolts, and got -2.2 degrees. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet to see how it feels.

 

If you change the camber bolt from the current setting you must get an alignment because the toe will change quite dramatically. To clarify, changing camber (yourself) will change the toe. The more negative camber you dial in the front, relative to the rear, the more this end of the car will stick reducing the understeer characteristics of the car. My personal experience suggests that two degrees of negative camber in the front will tend to wear the inside of the tires. One degree of negative camber has been fine with many of my street cars.

 

yeah - this isn't a backyard job guys... get a 4wheel alignment asap. just ask them to dial in the correct settings.

camber bolts are "FAR" form accurate

^ more camber = more toe in, so you need pull the rear of the wheel inwards tightening the tie-rods.

on my car (and every car is different) going from -1deg to -2deg camber requires 3/4 turn of the tie-rod (inwards).

point is - its a complex system that affects the car SO much you really need to spend the money on this one