The wheels look great.

 

Yup, makes sense. And i remember with the brand you mentioned if you called them and asked for the pad shape they either wouldn't know what you were talking about or just wouldn't tell you. Generally the first one depending on who you were talking to.

- andrew

 

For the OP, do you have steel braided lines and brake duct cooling kit? I read all three pages but did not see these mods mentioned that could go adecent way to helping your fade troubles.

 

I dont know why anyone would flame you for that, it makes a lot of sense. It costs a ton more to create a new pad shape then to use an existing one that is produced everywhere. The Megan BBK is a cheap setup so there is no way they are making their own pads. Now someone needs to figure out what pad size they are using

To the above post, I have a ducting kit and just purchased SS lines and Hawk HT10s (though the SS lines will do nothing for fade, only feel and safety). The ducting kit works wonders. I mainly opened up this thread because I wanted to expand my horizons and whatnot and MAYBE thought of getting a BBK sometime in the future.

 

I beg to differ on the SS lines...coming from the motorcycle world...the rubber lines would heat up and flex over time, contributing to mushy feel/fade over the course of a session. Perhaps they don't make a whole hill of beans of difference on the EVO, but I'm going to go with SS lines just to rule that out when I hit the track.

 

Yes they will heat and flex causing a mushy pedal and inconsistent feel but they will in no way limit fade or boiling of fluid. The SS lines will transfer heat just like the regular lines and offer no heat shielding. I already ordered them so no disagreement on their usefulness

 

AngrySlipper, any update on the Megan BBK??

 

Clearly, not that many people are interested in Megan's BBK. However, I thought I should point out KFP Magnum Pads (pic-yer-fric.com). They make custom pads, at what cost I dont know, but assuming they are somewhat reasonable, that would negate having to run solely Megan's pads and make running them far more feasible.

 

Porterfield can also do that.

Did no one find out the shape they are using?

 

no... no one has this kit! Any idea on how much custom pads in a PFZ like or race pad would run? I doubt Megan would tell you anyway. I am unfamiliar with how brake pad shapes are designated. Assuming its not exclusive to Megan, how are pad shapes classified?

 

FMSI - Friction Material Standards Institute - brake pads are loosely classified by D number

EVO Viii/9/MR = D1001 front and D961 rear



example

http://www.tmdshow.com/lib/pdf/produ...ex/MDB2592.pdf


Aftermarket calipers don't always have D Numbers - but they sort of do - especially if the pad was used in a production vehicle.

It is HIGHLY unlikely that Megan uses a whole new shape

It is much more likely that they bought an existing caliper and copied both it and the pad - OR - simply ordered a kit from a neighboring manufacturer and put their brand name on it.

 

Here is Megan's page with pads for the BBK for sale:

http://www.meganracingperformance.co...1068_1070.html

Can you tell the shape by looking at the picture? Or maybe do you think if you owned the kit it would be relatively easy to find the pad shape? They are clearly not race pads and are likely crap. Operating temp of 50F-650F MOT 650F. If you ran these, you would need a new pad source for sure. And no replacement rotors listed...

 

Finally, I got Megan BBK installed last week. So here's my little review.

I'm using 18 inch Gram Lights 57s, +33 offset.

First the fitment.
Plainly pain in the ***. While wheel to caliper clearance is OK (actually even better then on stock brembos), the inner lower ball mounts were rubbing the front rotors! I had to trim them (mounts, not rotors) a bit. I think I'm gonna have to make & install some kind of custom spacers thus moving both rotors & calipers farther from the suspension and closer to the inner side of the wheels (there's plenty of space there).

Rears fitted OK.

Now the performance
The fitment was not the worst of it. After I bedded everything in and tried some hardcore braking I noticed that the car stops much worse than on stock brembos - ABS seemed to kick in too soon, too hard and too noisy.

So, like any "normal" person I went ahead and I turned ABS off (removed the fuse). Tried some more breaking, and there was this awful loud noise coming from the back of the car. The noise seemed to only appear under rather hard breaking at the moment when wheels would almost lock, right when ABS used to kick in... The higher the speed was the louder the noise.

First I thought something rubs something under intensive braking, but couldn't find what... After lots of thinking I began to suspect the rear differential was giving that noise, so here's what I did. Like many (or some) of you may know, Evos starting from version 7 disengage central diff. lock when you pull the handbrake, so you can use handbrake totally blocking rear wheels w/o damaging the AWD system. So what i did was with ABS still off I pulled the handbrake just a little bit to the point it doesn't actually brake, but the handbrake light turns on on the dash. Then I tried to do the intensive braking like I did before and the noise was gone!

BUT. Now I found out that rear locks a lot, lot, LOT sooner then the front! The kit is biased EXTREMELY towards the rear wheels!

My version of the noise is that when rear and central diffs are working as they are supposed to, under hard braking the rear axle "wants" to lock much sooner than the front axle thus giving extreme difference in rotation speed between front and rear axles - too much difference for the differencial to handle properly. That was giving the noise. That's why when I turned the central diff lock off by engaging the handbrake, the noise was completely gone.

So the conclusion is, I can't f*cking brake! Every braking turns into a f*cking powerslide now! To the point it's dangerous to drive this thing in the city, not to mention the rear tires will soon be gone for good. And i have to drive with handbrake engaged not to damage the differential, and I can't turn ABS on.

Other than that (like this isn't enough), brakes are perfect Much less pressure on the pedal needed, couldn't overheat them so far (but can't really brake hard yet), pads and 100% mute, absolutely NO vibration.

The real question now is, what the hell do I do to give more braking power to the fronts or less power to the rears? How do I adjust this??? HELP!

PS: Should i bother to take some pictures? Anyone wants to see the BBK on the car?
PPS: Sorry for the lousy English, guys

 

Wow Megan makes a product that isn't top notch? Shocking. I would have stuck with Stoptechs. Thanks for the review though Angry Slipper, you sure the brakes are installed properly? I'm down to see some pics.

 

I was on budget when I ordered those in February . And stoptech doesn't make 6pot/4pot kits. As my budget for the car build grew from $10k to $40k I would rather spend another $5k on Endless or Alcons now, but back in February the $3.2k for BBK was a sweet deal. And I did read some reviews on this particular kit - couldn't find any negative ones (unlike on pretty much all other megan products...)

Anyway, it's not that bad The kit itself, when you're holding it in your hands, is pretty well built, actually. Not the kind of quality you would expect from something made in china (or where is it made?). It bites very well, much less warm-up needed (but still some) for the pads compared to 2500 Ferodo I used to run. I really think after this bias issue solved somehow, the kit will perform amazingly.

Yes, probably the guys who installed it did screw something up and I will investigate this, BUT I just have no idea what can you possibly screw up that would give such disbalance between front and rear brakes... Fronts do lock eventually, meaning they do physically work, but a lot later than the rears...

I will take some pictures tomorrow and be sure to post them here.