Ok I just did the stupid thing - contacted Megan via their feedback form (http://www.meganracing.com/contact/contactus.asp) describing the issue and pointing to this thread. Let's see if they even reply .

 

Definitely sounds like a poorly thought out brake kit with BAD bias. You could measure the piston diameters....that along with the rotor diameters will give you an idea of the bias. I'm surprised their 4 wheel kit is so terribly balanced, usually just the front kit from a company like that will make the car suck. You would think they would put some real thought into the 4 wheel kit. I guess not.

This is something Stoptech and other real brake manufacturers do well, and makes them worth the money. You would have much better braking from just a front Stoptech kit for around the same price. And you get great aftersale support, great pad selection, proven reliability and performance, etc. Our time trial STI runs the 6 piston 355mm Stoptech kit with ducts, Hawk DTC 70 pads, and good fluid and has no brake issues even on Hoosiers and a lot of power. The stock rear brembos were simply painted yellow to match the Stoptech color that Dan chose.

Also, your english is better than most people's on here.

- Andrew

 

This is disappointing but I suppose not surprising. I would think if you are handy with a brake line bender you could reroute the lines out of the master cylinder and install a manual brake balance adjuster. That is easy (relatively) on mustangs and whatnot but I am not sure about the master cylinder and routing on the Evo.

I have also heard that the Whiteline roll center adjustment kit runs into the Stoptech BBK though it is surprising the STOCK lower mounts hit this rotor. It is just a kit used for 10 different cars and there wasn't much thought put into the fitment or bias on an Evo.

Lastly, Stoptech does offer a 6pot front setup. You need the ST60 front caliper and an ST22 rear (2 pot) but I think there is a 4pot rear if you really want it. But as you are getting rear lock up you may just want the 22!

Thanks for the review and I would guess you could unload this kit on a 350Z owner or something like that as it would likely work better for them. That is unless you can fix it. Good luck!

 

Sorry the lousy pictures, taken in a rush (and the car is dirty, i know i know ):

Front left wheel:


Front left wheel again:


Rear right wheel:

 

GTWORX.com, Protostar1
I think I'm gonna do something like this
http://robrobinette.com/brake_valve.htm
to lower the pressure to the rears.

What concerns me is when I go in reverse (pretty slowly), the rears still lock slightly sooner or pretty much the same time as the fronts. While normally front should lock WAY sooner than rear when reversing... How can it be THAT bad biased?... I tend to think it's not enough pressure to the front rather than too much to the rear. Which worries me, cuz that may be unfixable w/o master cylinder major upgrade.

Yeah I know you get what you pay for, but it seems like there's some mechanical problem rather BBK misdesign. I mean how badly should it be designed to work the way it works?...

----

As I noted earlier, I emailed megan about this issue. "Surprisingly" no comments were received from them as of now...

 

Would you be able to measure the piston sizes?

I'm curious to see how the piston area of these compare to the factory brembos.

 

This is utterly incorrect. That just puts the ACD into a free state, but the diff is still 50:50 split. It is always 50:50 split. The ACD just controls if the front and rear wheels are spinning together (locked) or differently (free).

 

Thanks for the correction. As matter of fact by "disengage central diff. lock" I pretty much meant "puts the ACD into a free state"

As for the piston size, I forgot to measure while the kit was off the car, not sure how to do it on the car now...

 

Well if you ever have the wheels off again you could whip one side of pads off and measure with a vernier (or ruler if you don't have a vernier) the diameter of the pistons on one side of the caliper.

Just something that would be of interest so no pressure to get it done.

 

can you get a less aggressive pad for the rear & a more aggressive pad in front?? //difficult until you find out the template for the pad

 

Wilwood sells a brake bias controller that you can manually tune to your liking. Fairly cheap. Maybe this is what you need for your kit.

 

If you are having the rear engage, and not just lock first, I suspect there may be something more wrong with the fronts than just bias. Theoretically, the front and rear should engage at the same time because pressure is being applied to the full system and the caliper pressure resistance should be negligible. Now after the engagement, the bias comes into play regarding the amount of pressure applied to each pad. But if the back is applied before the front I would think there might be blockage in your line or in the caliper somehow restricting your flow of fluid. I am no expert on brakes nor am I sure I totally understood your issue, but I agree you may have a mechanical issue over just a poorly designed BBK. I mean the few 350Z guys with them like them and had no complaints, this would seem to be a big (and obvious) issue that even they would have if there was a major design flaw. Keep us up to date!

 

I'd assume protostar has it right.