Notices
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension Discuss everything that helps make your car start and stop to the best of it's abilities.

squishy brake pedal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 11, 2009, 05:32 PM
  #16  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
 
18bora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by whitenblue65

...Racing Brake pads "guaranteed fade free to over 1200 deg. F":


Did you bed-in the pads

PAGID Instructions for race pad bedding

Basic bedding in
5-8 stops with light to medium brake pressure from approximately 90 MPH to 65 MPH. Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 to 400 yards. The pads should not reach temperatures above 300 - 400°C (550 - 750°F) during bedding in. No dragging!
Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.

Immediately after basic bedding in at high speed
One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 110MPH to approximately 65 MPH. Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3-4 times. Repeat the high speed stops, including recovery stops, 2-3 times. Allow a cooling-off distance of approximately 500 yards between high speed stops.

Last edited by 18bora; Aug 11, 2009 at 05:35 PM.
Old Aug 11, 2009, 06:34 PM
  #17  
Newbie
iTrader: (1)
 
-Land\EVO/-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Orlando/ VA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yo i did this very same thing at the tail of the dragon,, u basically boiled ur brake fluid and from the pics u need to replace ur rotors too,, look at the grooves and also u can fry ur pads too and it will look like u got pad life left (hard braking and get the pads smooth where u will squeak BADLY) also from what it looks like is u got aggressive pads but maybe too aggressive for the slotted rotors. too much heat. thats why u may want to get drill and slotted,, to release all that heat. just slotted may not get it all out. believe me i learned the hard way. lol

get the highest brake DOT fluid (its blue) 5 if im correct and follow the advice the other guys are telling,, note if u do not bleed ur brakes correctly it will do the same thing. i wouldnt use that diagram because why go front back, back front and still have the risk to get air in the system.

some of us at a local shop i worked at will start from the back to front,, getting the fluid to the farthest place then close,, some use a rotation of rear driver side/ pass side rear/ pass front/ then driver front. thats a rotation where u will eliminate any air getting out. im ASC Certified in brakes and suspension and alot of us go by that method just to give a little advice taught to us by master techs. good luck

Last edited by -Land\EVO/-; Aug 11, 2009 at 06:54 PM.
Old Aug 12, 2009, 12:55 AM
  #18  
Newbie
 
OctaneReport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by -Land\EVO/-
yo i did this very same thing at the tail of the dragon,, u basically boiled ur brake fluid and from the pics u need to replace ur rotors too,, look at the grooves and also u can fry ur pads too and it will look like u got pad life left (hard braking and get the pads smooth where u will squeak BADLY) also from what it looks like is u got aggressive pads but maybe too aggressive for the slotted rotors. too much heat. thats why u may want to get drill and slotted,, to release all that heat. just slotted may not get it all out. believe me i learned the hard way. lol

get the highest brake DOT fluid (its blue) 5 if im correct and follow the advice the other guys are telling,, note if u do not bleed ur brakes correctly it will do the same thing. i wouldnt use that diagram because why go front back, back front and still have the risk to get air in the system.

some of us at a local shop i worked at will start from the back to front,, getting the fluid to the farthest place then close,, some use a rotation of rear driver side/ pass side rear/ pass front/ then driver front. thats a rotation where u will eliminate any air getting out. im ASC Certified in brakes and suspension and alot of us go by that method just to give a little advice taught to us by master techs. good luck
For brake fluid, you're going to want to pay attention to the boiling points not just the color (although ATE Super Blue does make it easy to tell when you've done a full flush). The higher the temp, the more resistant it is to turning into a vapor. For those of us that don't bleed our brakes every weekend, the wet boiling point is the one to keep an eye on. Motul RBF600 is one of the best balanced fluids between price and boiling point. Castrol SRF and some of the JDM fluids are higher but they come at a much higher cost.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ronin17
For Sale - Cars For Sale
18
Oct 8, 2011 01:02 PM
stamlon
For Sale - Cars For Sale
12
Apr 1, 2011 02:08 PM
mlstrdc
Evo General
18
Dec 29, 2010 12:58 PM
the_aY
Toronto Lancer Club
19
Dec 8, 2010 04:32 AM



Quick Reply: squishy brake pedal



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:45 AM.