Iv been trying to cope with the ABS in my 2003 Evolution 8 GSR but im have to be honest I don't have confidence in braking late with the Evo having ABS connected. The system seems to pulse instantly and for what seems like a eternity before it finally shuts off. This tends to occur even in smooth dry braking zones/roads.The car has brand new Cyrotec Rotors and Hawks HPS pads all around as well as new tires Dunlop Star specs all around.They have been bed in properly,they are not glazed. I have to say that Im still disappointed in its braking performance. I have driven a plethora of cars in autocross/track events and road race competition. It seems as if the car has the potential to do better. Im blaming part of its inability on the lowered suspension which is in need for replacement entirely. I have a good hunch that its something more. During my last timed event i decided to disable the system completely after almost going off during a late braking maneuver. I felt much better in the car for the remainder of the day. However I want my abs for daily driving, and Id like to hear some of your ideas on remedies for such an issue.

 

I'd suggest taking it to the dealer and having all the MUT-III tests done (this is going to cost you). If okay there I'd check for a bad wheel bearing. If nothing there, I'd try replacing the longitudinal g-sensor.

 

You can also remove the abs system out ...

 

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...emoval_kit.htm

 

HPS pads just flat are are not impressive at all on the CT9A. Nor are they track able pads.

I never had any issues with my ABS on track events. And I really late brake. (Hawk HT10 pads, Z1 and Z1* tires. Blank rotors. Direct air ducts to rotors.)

Do you have SS lines? Good brake fluid in there? Tested the ABS unit for codes/faults?

 

The only time I've had to "manage" ABS on my '03 was with PFC-97 pads and stock Yokos - just way too much pad for the tire. Once I upped the ante to R1 tires all was well again, though. Never had an issue with HPS pads, which I ran on the car for 20000+ street miles along with a track day. If anything, the HPS actually had a hard time getting the stock tires to lock up - took a lot of pedal.

l8r)

 

The lines are SS, Fluid is Motul 600. The initial bite on the HPS is fairly depressing. Maybe it is just the pads. Another thing it is pretty much impossible to lock the tire before the system engages. Is this normal are do you guys find you can chirp the tires prior to abs activation?

Plan of Action(In Order):

-Checking my wheel bearings.
-Replace Pads Hawk HT10?
-Install my new suspension
-MUT-3 Test(I need to find someone willing to do this)
-Testing ABS for fault codes (Dealer only?)

 

Any Evo RS owners here? Can they chime in if they experience full brake lock-up at the track etc? I always thought ABS helped for on-track and auto-x performance!

 

Is the front alignment good?

I rarely ever have the ABS kick on at all, so I'm surprised to see somebody feeling it is intrusive.

 

HPS just have no bite. I felt the same way about mine.

Here are the street tire, sub 400 hp pads:
Acceptable track only pads - Street tires
Hawk HT10: 300-1300F, intermediate to high torque
Hawk HT14: 300-1400F, high torque
Porterfield R4: 100-1200F (100-900F optimal), .52 drag coefficient
Racing Brake ET700: 100-1200F, intermediate torque
Racing Brake ET800: 100-1400F, intermediate to high torque
Performance Friction 97's: 167-2000F, intermediate to high torque
EBC YellowStuff: 300-1750F, intermediate to high torque
CL RC5+: 0-1300F, 0.4 drag coefficient
CL RC6E: 0-1800F, 0.46 drag coefficient

I ran the HT10s on my Evo. Worked well with my abuse. EBC Yellows are my current track pad on the SVTF. EBC Blues have been used on the Evos. As well as the ET series.

 

Are you really jumping on the brake pedal real hard initially?

Also, what is the suspension setup you are running? If you have very little travel and stiff springs you may have tires losing compliance constantly. Also if it is adjustable and you have lots of rebound that can keep a tire "light" momentarily causing a lose if grip.

 

LancerEvo8RS - Yes properly working ABS is a benefit in both road-racing and Auto-x and dramatically improves the safety of the car on the street. I only disconnected ABS because I felt something was off. I come from a large karting background/RR so almost all of the prepared car I race dont have ABS hence me being comfortable this way. The RS cars can surely lock-up wheels its no different from any other NON-ABS system.

SmikeEvo - I really like the sound of the HT10 and HT14, High Torque would refer to initial bite or grab effectiveness correct? I prefer to have quicker feedback from initial bite so i can setup the car earlier for the corner.

03whitegsr - I would say its not optimal no. The suspension installed by previous owner is gone and im sure its not doing good with front end geometry. I will remedy all this once i install the new suspension. I plan to sit with the car on the rig for a while. I would call mine intrusive it tends to stay active for what seems like eternity after just the slightest upset in the road surface under braking. =/

KeKek - Iv tried various ways of getting on the pedal. Either way once the car loads up the slightest sneeze activates the system. The suspension on the car is KYB OEM struts and Hotchik springs. Not a decent setup by any means for this purpose. However I can attest even getting on the stops should throw the rates toward infinity causing the car to understeer as it overwhelms the tire. This idea was what had me blaming the suspension on this issue initially. But from previous experience Iv driven fwd that layed on the bump stops almost at rest and still provided exceptional straight line braking.

 

HT10s - how they feel in their heat range. I would rather have true numbers on them. But based of other pads I've run I put them in the 0.4 to 0.5 drag range.

With ducts and driving, they took the abuse well. Good starter track pad.

 

sounds like you have a bad sensor somewhere. i would guess its one of the wheel speed sensors.

 

I assume the alignment was setup well at this height though?

If you have a fair amount of travel still but you are hitting the bump stops on braking, I imagine the toe and camber is far from where it needs to be and is likely a good part of the problem.

I haven't had mine come on while racing auto-x unless I am standing on the brakes hard. I think I have far more tire then brake pad though and that is probably the reason it seldom comes on.