I've got a bone stock suspension set up thus far, i see the OE set up as being varryyyy good. except for one gloaming issue.....mid corner push.

i know the max-lock diff will help cure the on throttle push / make the car rotate on power, but when i'm just out for a spirited drive, coming around a carner with no throttle input, it seems like the car gives up once your past initial turn in.

shes got star specs with 10-15k on them....still lots of life, and like i said, stock everything else.

suggestions?

thanks!!

 

Cheapy fit, bigger rear sway.

Slightly more expensive, higher spring rates.

Real question is, what is your budget, and you are you future plans.

 

With no throttle input, there is a lot more body roll than with throttle or braking. Stiffen up your front and rear suspension I guess if you want to float around corners with no acceleration (either forward or reverse). Your acceleration vector is straight perpindicular to the direction of your car.

You don't want to tune your suspension around this type of driving if you expect it to do well on the track.

 

And a performance alignment. #1 first mod to do.

- Andrew

 

my future plans are more power related. maybe a day or two at the track or 1/4mi but mostly just big power for a street surprise machine.

judging by feel id have to assume the front ride freq is ~1.8 and the rear is in excess of 2.0hz.(2.2?) the motion ratio is pretty good front/rear as well so a small spring change would do the trick. however, i want to avoid a over sprung/under damped set up so i'd probably has to swap dampers around as well. not a bad thing, just more cost.

i like the idea of a larger rear bar as it wont effect the ride quality over most inputs and lets me stick with the OE spring/damper but i wanted to see what the collective mind thought of this subject.

is there an agreed upon best bar size/company for this type of initial improvement?

what spring / damper would you suggest swapping out for?

I have zero issues with paying top dollar for the best parts as long as i see myself as needing them and they are infact the best possible option.

a high end coil over would be nice, but the maintenance they need(especially mono-tubes) is a turn off because this is not a track car.

 

specs??

 

The best mod for you money is TRE Max Lock diff. Here are some posts about it.

Rear Diff Options - Power Oversteer Found Here


and

TRE Rear Diff service experiance / review

 

max neg camber front (it's 2 position adjustable, you'll get around -2 or a little less)
zero toe front and rear
-1.25 to -1.5 rear camber

Most go with just a rear sway bar, but adding both a front and rear is the better overall set-up. The front bar is a pain to install though and that's one of the reasons many skip the front bar. The other reason being that many assume it will add to more understeer and not improve the car, which is not necessarily true as it does improve overall grip. See SmikeEvo, TouringBubble, etc. who have had excellent results with front and rear swaybars in auto-x and on the track. Adding just the rear is OKAY, but I prefer both. We use the Whiteline 26mm front and 24mm rear adjustable bars.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...=touringbubble

Both had Bilstein dampers (not coilovers) and either Swift or our GTWORX springs as well. This is a great all around street/track/auto-x set-up that performs and rides well. Many have been going this route recently instead of the $1k cheaper coilovers. Add a few bushings and call it a day. Coilovers are nice for cars that see the track a lot, but IMO many who have them don't need them and should work on their driving first and have fun. And that's just the people who do track their car.

You can also have the OEM Bilsteins revalved for dirt cheap.

The rear diff can make a big difference to corner exit too as mentioned.

- Andrew

 

Driver mod was the best thing I have done...........

 

I've talked with both shep and TRE about all that, definitely sounds like its worth doing.

i know that will help the car rotate under power but as-is, without a quick drop throttle, she doesn't rotate for ****! thus why i think it needs a bar and/or spring/damper swap.

 

Thanks for all the info!

i wouldn't mind doing a front bar swap as long as its useful. what are the OE bar DIA's on the IX's?

the front bar would defiantly help turn in (not like this go-kart really needs allot of help there) but would lower ultimate grip(its just what bars do) and might lead to a bit of push from the nose....not necessarily a bad thing.

if the jump in size on the rear is larger. Then she would want to rotate more and maybe that extra bit of turn-in from the front bar helps swing the *** end around too......id bet on it.....

Hmmm...i'll PM you on the sping/damper/bar options you have.

thanks!

 

driver mod'ed around a tuned in chassis imbalance huh?
wow, you rock!

on a side note, with how quick the rack is in this car. along with how quick initial turn in is, ive got to assume this push in the OE chassis settings is so it'll pass FMVSS126 rec's and consumers union lane change.

 

I'm not sure I understand your goal here, 06Black. Why try to get a car that has 60/40 weight distribution to be neutral when cornering in neutral? All you will most likely accomplish is a car that will snap oversteer as soon as you touch the throttle. To have the car be neutral under hard driving (i.e., road racing/auto-x) will require two things to start with: trail braking and a better rear diff. Then, depending on how competitive you want to be, you can start looking at matching up suspension components to the specific driving that you do and the tires that you run.

From my experience, I can tell you that sticking with a spring/strut setup, a handful of bushings, a rear diff, and (for now) an upgraded front swaybar will give you a very neutral and well balanced car.

l8r)

 

THIS!!

I have this except stock rear diff and larger rear bar. Whiteline front swaybar most definitely improved front grip. Rear is balanced with an adjustable hotchkiss bar (hollow and relatively light).

Still want to try out the rear diff on my modest 245 zz214 autocross rubber before jumping to Ohlins.

 

my goal is to try and balance the chassis a bit better.

i'm trying to move the car more towards a neutral attitude.

now, if i come into a corner and stay neutral with the throttle(i.e. no lift or increase) the car push's wide a bit.

if you drop throttle mid corner to try and get the chassis to rotate, you get some improvement but not much. and of course if you get on the power she'll push.

now if i can coax quicker turn in with a front bar(lowers ultimate grip, but it might be worth it) while lowering weight transfer(both fore/aft and laterally) with higher spring rates and the larger bars. then lessen the ultimate grip level of the rear along with another improvement to lessening weight transfer via a rear bar. I should end up with a car that will stay more neutral in handling Vs front wheel angle when the throttle input is kept neutral. she should not push as hard when on the power and really want to rotate if you drop throttle or tail brake.

the diff work is absolutely going to happen now that i can pull the car out of storage. after talking to the GTWORX guys, along with what you said. a few bushings, a set of springs, and a few anti-roll bars have been added to the mix.