I think that's the key right there. If you're at maximum grip upon turn-in _any_ change in throttle/wheel angle will make you lose grip. You're getting feedback from guys that not only compete, but are competitive ... open your ears, grasshopper. I know I do when I have a question and they chime in.

Here's what I did:

- rear trailing arm bushing - the stocker wears out pretty quick
- Whiteline rear bumpsteer correction kit - added stability under heavy braking (less tail wagging)
- Whiteline Front Rollcenter Correction kit - improves your suspension geometry after an aftermarket spring or coilover induced drop.
- Perrin PSRS - added caster to the front suspension, which helps add dynamic camber while cornering (or helps reduce camber loss under steering, depending on how you want to look at it).

Of the four, the PSRS was the most noticeable change, as it does change how the steering feels. I installed both the FRCK and PSRS at the same time as my springs, so I can't attest to how much of a difference the FRCK makes, but many racers swear by it. The rear bumpsteer correction kit and rear trailing arm bushing were also installed together, and made a noticeable difference in braking stability.

HTH

l8r)

 

i'm definitely open here, i just cant imagine this tire is silent at/near its limit. if it was an R-comp, sure, but its just a street tire.

I'm almost curious now if ive got a bad bushing/link that when loaded is deflecting.....hrmmmm

thanks for the list of parts, and description. that perrin part sounds like something i should check out!

the trailing arm and rear bump steer kit have been rec'd many times, so those will be gotten as well.

i've seen that roll center kits are really only helpful when the rest of the suspension has been gone through...does this sound correct to you?

 

I disagree. I think slaloms are fastest with a steady state speed. Some use accel-decel-accel-etc.. I think that upsets the car and the fastest way is to just maintain speed with the steering wheel almost always moving. At least thats been fastest for me.

Also, large sweepers have steady state. If you break the corner into a basic 3 phase corner (yes, I know theirs more transition phases but lets stick to basics here ), then that middle section is the steady state area. Problem is, that middle phase only really exists in a couple corners on a autocross course but is most corners on the street or big track. For autocross its almost always brake hard and accelerate through the corner, but thats not possible on a large sweeper unless you're just going way to slow to start with, which is slow :P.

 

+1 to a rear diff, fixes all the pushy aspects of the evo in my with and without experience..

Two quick additions here:

1. you can also simply drill out the front sway bar, in essence making a shorter lever arm, and making it act MUCH more like a stiffer bar. (search for the how to thread on evoM) This also gives you an adjustable FSB which is great, for a fraction of the cost.

2. Did I miss a suggestion for a minor amount of toe out rear, and/or less negative camber in the rear? ideal? No, but it will allow for more neutral steady state cornering on an otherwise stock suspension evo. Again not my suggestion for any/all evos, especially those with much more adjustment options (coilovers, etc)

 

^
good suggestions

OP what are your current alignment specs?

 

OE alignment for another hour or so, then swapping to the specs GTWORX's gave on the first page.

I'll report back.

and guys...everyone...thanks!

 

Any news