BC Racing BR series coilover damping settings rough Street use
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BC Racing BR series coilover damping settings rough Street use
Hi Guys,
I just got a set of BC BR coilovers to replace my leaking Tein monoflex, since there are brand new they ride a lot better than my leaking Teins.
However the BR feel less planted compared wit the tein, they have 7k front and 8k rear.
Maybe this is because the Tein has harder springs? (front 10k rear 12k I think)
Can I set up the damping on the BR to get them to preform better on the street?
I have tried below damping setting (from softest) tire bridgstone RE11 225/17/45 F32 psi R28 psi
I am after a set-up that is comfortable enough not to feel small-medium bumps, can can hug to the road as low & high speeds, and give you confidence entering corners. ( bear in mind we have bumpy street road with lost of uneven potholes)
All advice suggestion are welcome~!
I just got a set of BC BR coilovers to replace my leaking Tein monoflex, since there are brand new they ride a lot better than my leaking Teins.
However the BR feel less planted compared wit the tein, they have 7k front and 8k rear.
Maybe this is because the Tein has harder springs? (front 10k rear 12k I think)
Can I set up the damping on the BR to get them to preform better on the street?
I have tried below damping setting (from softest) tire bridgstone RE11 225/17/45 F32 psi R28 psi
I am after a set-up that is comfortable enough not to feel small-medium bumps, can can hug to the road as low & high speeds, and give you confidence entering corners. ( bear in mind we have bumpy street road with lost of uneven potholes)
All advice suggestion are welcome~!
Last edited by unihappytime; Aug 29, 2012 at 01:53 AM.
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For my spring rate should I have the damping set up harder at the front or rear.
The car is front heavy right? but I have a lower spring rate front, so higher damping for better balance?
Come on guys, what's your BC BR damper setting and how does it feel on rough roads?
The car is front heavy right? but I have a lower spring rate front, so higher damping for better balance?
Come on guys, what's your BC BR damper setting and how does it feel on rough roads?
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So there are basically 3 setting for this coilover?
Let me get this right, damping dose not change spring rate, but correct settings can be used to match the spring rate, affecting the comfort / performance of the ride?
but I got these for USD 880 fitted, so not bad for the price I paid.
#5
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The problem with what Ive seen on BC valving is they are almost completely linear and still have a fair amount of cross talk over to compression from the rebound adjustment. Also, the first half of the adjustment does basically nothing. This is just from looking at whats been posted here in other threads and looking at other forums searching.
With the linear valving on a street car you cant really balance the turn-in firmness vs stability mid-corner with bumps. In the rear to get some corner entry oversteer you risk mid-corner snap oversteer.
On the street, what you'll feel most is the high speed valving cause you aren't jerking the wheel hard even getting over 1-2hz with turning. Stick with what ever setting is comfortable and composed over bumps because there will be a correlation between comfort and stability (which IMO is everything on the street) If you're racing then start low and increase one end till that end gets unstable through slaloms or bumps. Make sure your increases are at least 1/8th of the scale to make a large enough change to feel. Change one end at a time, and try 0, then 8, 16,24, 32. Make a run or two between each change. When you make a run on a new setting and things get worse, back off half the adjusted amount and start the other end.
With the linear valving on a street car you cant really balance the turn-in firmness vs stability mid-corner with bumps. In the rear to get some corner entry oversteer you risk mid-corner snap oversteer.
On the street, what you'll feel most is the high speed valving cause you aren't jerking the wheel hard even getting over 1-2hz with turning. Stick with what ever setting is comfortable and composed over bumps because there will be a correlation between comfort and stability (which IMO is everything on the street) If you're racing then start low and increase one end till that end gets unstable through slaloms or bumps. Make sure your increases are at least 1/8th of the scale to make a large enough change to feel. Change one end at a time, and try 0, then 8, 16,24, 32. Make a run or two between each change. When you make a run on a new setting and things get worse, back off half the adjusted amount and start the other end.
#6
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So there are basically 3 setting for this coilover?
Let me get this right, damping dose not change spring rate, but correct settings can be used to match the spring rate, affecting the comfort / performance of the ride?
but I got these for USD 880 fitted, so not bad for the price I paid.
Let me get this right, damping dose not change spring rate, but correct settings can be used to match the spring rate, affecting the comfort / performance of the ride?
but I got these for USD 880 fitted, so not bad for the price I paid.
Yes, that is bad for the price you paid. They are junk in our books. Low quality.
The problem with what Ive seen on BC valving is they are almost completely linear and still have a fair amount of cross talk over to compression from the rebound adjustment. Also, the first half of the adjustment does basically nothing. This is just from looking at whats been posted here in other threads and looking at other forums searching.
With the linear valving on a street car you cant really balance the turn-in firmness vs stability mid-corner with bumps. In the rear to get some corner entry oversteer you risk mid-corner snap oversteer.
On the street, what you'll feel most is the high speed valving cause you aren't jerking the wheel hard even getting over 1-2hz with turning. Stick with what ever setting is comfortable and composed over bumps because there will be a correlation between comfort and stability (which IMO is everything on the street) If you're racing then start low and increase one end till that end gets unstable through slaloms or bumps. Make sure your increases are at least 1/8th of the scale to make a large enough change to feel. Change one end at a time, and try 0, then 8, 16,24, 32. Make a run or two between each change. When you make a run on a new setting and things get worse, back off half the adjusted amount and start the other end.
With the linear valving on a street car you cant really balance the turn-in firmness vs stability mid-corner with bumps. In the rear to get some corner entry oversteer you risk mid-corner snap oversteer.
On the street, what you'll feel most is the high speed valving cause you aren't jerking the wheel hard even getting over 1-2hz with turning. Stick with what ever setting is comfortable and composed over bumps because there will be a correlation between comfort and stability (which IMO is everything on the street) If you're racing then start low and increase one end till that end gets unstable through slaloms or bumps. Make sure your increases are at least 1/8th of the scale to make a large enough change to feel. Change one end at a time, and try 0, then 8, 16,24, 32. Make a run or two between each change. When you make a run on a new setting and things get worse, back off half the adjusted amount and start the other end.
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So for around 1k price mark, what is a good set of coilover for rough street use?
Time to investigate and see what other option I have when I come to change these for the better~!
If I re-valve the Teins would they be better? people say the don;t last long and tend to be a bit jumpy for rough roads.
Time to investigate and see what other option I have when I come to change these for the better~!
If I re-valve the Teins would they be better? people say the don;t last long and tend to be a bit jumpy for rough roads.
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#9
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If the Tein were not so badly worn, I'd stuck with them, saved up and got some MR struts.
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Guess I'll have to save up
#13
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If you have 1k to spend on shocks, save up for a bit and look for a set of use AST 4100s or KWV3s.
I think you're understanding how quick you can be on a set of bilsteins, GTworks springs, and swaybars. Cheap coilovers might come with higher rates and a bit of reduced roll but at the sacrifice of stability, durability, and comfort.
I run AST5100's cause I run 285 hoosiers. When racing season is over and I'm only running street tires I go back to the aforementioned setup and enjoy the car all winter.
I think you're understanding how quick you can be on a set of bilsteins, GTworks springs, and swaybars. Cheap coilovers might come with higher rates and a bit of reduced roll but at the sacrifice of stability, durability, and comfort.
I run AST5100's cause I run 285 hoosiers. When racing season is over and I'm only running street tires I go back to the aforementioned setup and enjoy the car all winter.
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