Whiteline roll center kit garbage
Sounds more like a mixture of improper installation and a little over reacting.
The nuts are not intended to be hit with a hammer so that's issue one. If you need to hit the stud with a hammer do like most people and grab a brass hammer or thread a throw away bolt on the end, hit it, and toss in the trash when your done. It's the same reason I keep a box of Nissan solid axle nuts on the shelf, cause Mitsubishi axle castle nuts are not ment to be hit with a hammer.
Secondly the yellow boots have to be.installed correctly. Nine times out of ten the boot is damaged from improper installation with a socket and a hammer which leads to premature failure on any of the boots even the OEM ones. The yellow compound is also used on a multitude of vehicles and in most cases holds up well when not subjected to the harsh conditions its subjected too on the evo. With its close proximity to the large brembo brakes and Toris that put off a large amount of heat, the tight and close ratio steering constantly jarring the tie rod, the constant power and high speed angles that 90% of evo owners subject them too even in simple city traffic. It's a miracle they hold up at all especially on an evo.
But with that said, the yellow boots don't seem to hold up as well as the simpler OEM ones under the harsh conditions so you might want to take it apon your self to plan ahead. In the end the OEM boots are only a hair better and can rip just as easily. Its just easier to see with the blue greese and yellow boot not to mention it hurts your feelings more.
The nuts are not intended to be hit with a hammer so that's issue one. If you need to hit the stud with a hammer do like most people and grab a brass hammer or thread a throw away bolt on the end, hit it, and toss in the trash when your done. It's the same reason I keep a box of Nissan solid axle nuts on the shelf, cause Mitsubishi axle castle nuts are not ment to be hit with a hammer.
Secondly the yellow boots have to be.installed correctly. Nine times out of ten the boot is damaged from improper installation with a socket and a hammer which leads to premature failure on any of the boots even the OEM ones. The yellow compound is also used on a multitude of vehicles and in most cases holds up well when not subjected to the harsh conditions its subjected too on the evo. With its close proximity to the large brembo brakes and Toris that put off a large amount of heat, the tight and close ratio steering constantly jarring the tie rod, the constant power and high speed angles that 90% of evo owners subject them too even in simple city traffic. It's a miracle they hold up at all especially on an evo.
But with that said, the yellow boots don't seem to hold up as well as the simpler OEM ones under the harsh conditions so you might want to take it apon your self to plan ahead. In the end the OEM boots are only a hair better and can rip just as easily. Its just easier to see with the blue greese and yellow boot not to mention it hurts your feelings more.
Sounds more like a mixture of improper installation and a little over reacting.
The nuts are not intended to be hit with a hammer so that's issue one. If you need to hit the stud with a hammer do like most people and grab a brass hammer or thread a throw away bolt on the end, hit it, and toss in the trash when your done. It's the same reason I keep a box of Nissan solid axle nuts on the shelf, cause Mitsubishi axle castle nuts are not ment to be hit with a hammer.
Secondly the yellow boots have to be.installed correctly. Nine times out of ten the boot is damaged from improper installation with a socket and a hammer which leads to premature failure on any of the boots even the OEM ones. The yellow compound is also used on a multitude of vehicles and in most cases holds up well when not subjected to the harsh conditions its subjected too on the evo. With its close proximity to the large brembo brakes and Toris that put off a large amount of heat, the tight and close ratio steering constantly jarring the tie rod, the constant power and high speed angles that 90% of evo owners subject them too even in simple city traffic. It's a miracle they hold up at all especially on an evo.
But with that said, the yellow boots don't seem to hold up as well as the simpler OEM ones under the harsh conditions so you might want to take it apon your self to plan ahead. In the end the OEM boots are only a hair better and can rip just as easily. Its just easier to see with the blue greese and yellow boot not to mention it hurts your feelings more.
The nuts are not intended to be hit with a hammer so that's issue one. If you need to hit the stud with a hammer do like most people and grab a brass hammer or thread a throw away bolt on the end, hit it, and toss in the trash when your done. It's the same reason I keep a box of Nissan solid axle nuts on the shelf, cause Mitsubishi axle castle nuts are not ment to be hit with a hammer.
Secondly the yellow boots have to be.installed correctly. Nine times out of ten the boot is damaged from improper installation with a socket and a hammer which leads to premature failure on any of the boots even the OEM ones. The yellow compound is also used on a multitude of vehicles and in most cases holds up well when not subjected to the harsh conditions its subjected too on the evo. With its close proximity to the large brembo brakes and Toris that put off a large amount of heat, the tight and close ratio steering constantly jarring the tie rod, the constant power and high speed angles that 90% of evo owners subject them too even in simple city traffic. It's a miracle they hold up at all especially on an evo.
But with that said, the yellow boots don't seem to hold up as well as the simpler OEM ones under the harsh conditions so you might want to take it apon your self to plan ahead. In the end the OEM boots are only a hair better and can rip just as easily. Its just easier to see with the blue greese and yellow boot not to mention it hurts your feelings more.
You can do that, it's pretty ghetto fabulous but should work just fine.
or
You can get a sheet of aluminum from your local hardware store and fabricate some heat shields pretty easily:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...atshields.html
or
You can get a sheet of aluminum from your local hardware store and fabricate some heat shields pretty easily:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...atshields.html
Evolved Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 638
Likes: 7
You can do that, it's pretty ghetto fabulous but should work just fine.
or
You can get a sheet of aluminum from your local hardware store and fabricate some heat shields pretty easily:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...atshields.html
Um i need to do this for sure awesome idea!
or
You can get a sheet of aluminum from your local hardware store and fabricate some heat shields pretty easily:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...atshields.html
Um i need to do this for sure awesome idea!
Had most of whitelines suspension pieces since 09. I super heated my brakes racing and burnt one low ball joint. Warped my rotors and boil my brake fluid as well so i dont blame whiteline for the failure obviously. Other then the one instance their parts have all performed incredibly well and when i redue my entire suspension next winter i will be sticking with their products
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